+Hydro Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I overflowed my sump during a water change a couple days ago. Luckily I have a waterproof pan built in the stand that caught the water. Problem is that my tuze wavemaker power/speed controller got wet and fryed . This is a little box made in to the wire that has a small knob to increase the power of the pump, I'm not talking about the wave controller unit, it was fine. From what I can figure out this part is made in to the pump electrical cord, is that right? I can barely even reach the wires and can't see them at all, plus they are mixed up in 100 other wires for everything else. There are 2 wave boxes and 2 sets of everything, I have an extra wave controller that isn't needed when linking them together. I thought that the one power/speed controller that got fryed controlled both pumps, is there a way to bypass the bad unit and only use the one that isn't fryed? I'm trying to find out everything I can before I try and repair this. Getting behind my tank to do this is nearly impossible. Am I going to have to replace the pump to get the power/speed control module? Does it come separately? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toxiq Reef Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Contact roger at tunze, he's super cool.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Contact roger at tunze, he's super cool.. Sounds like a plan, how do I do that? Got an email or phone #? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viet'spride70 Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 here it is 512-833-7546...his office locate on braker ln near IH 35. give hime a call or message, he is quick at responding... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Awesome, thank you guys! I'll give him a call tomorrow morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjr_wertheimber Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Sorry to hear about that, man. Let us know how things work out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 I'm not sure if you noticed my signature before , but its always something. There is a never ending list of things that need to be done it seems, as soon as one thing gets fixed something else needs to be worked on. I just try to accept it so I don't get frustrated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teg Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 You wont have to take out the whole wavebox to replace the driver unit. You can seperate the power/speed controller (Driver); you will have to take off the "cap" of that driver unit, then you can unplug the wire from the driver itself. There are 4 screws that need to be remove to take off the "cap". I wouldn't recommend combining the two waveboxes to 1 driver, it could overload that one driver and fry it too. Roger probably will that some spare drivers at his place, new or used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subsea Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I would be interested in knowing how this controller changes pump speed. I would asssume that it is using AC frequency control to regulate pump speed. I recently upgraded my home water well with a constant pressure system that maintains 70 PSI unless I exceed 6 GPM, Pump differential is only 2 PSI but the pumjp never stops, it rotates the slowest when at 70 PSI. Dave, it sounds lke you need an instrtument tech to help you trace lines. I have a digital Fluke multimeter and can help if you can wait until noon. Patrick PS If the wavebox pump was DC then the in line controller could be as simple as a rheostat. A variable resistance pot is very cheap at electrical supply houses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadodge Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Roger will help you out. The little box u r talking about is a reostat of sorts, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+dapettit Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I'm not sure if you noticed my signature before , but its always something. There is a never ending list of things that need to be done it seems, as soon as one thing gets fixed something else needs to be worked on. I just try to accept it so I don't get frustrated. This is why we're into reefing, to hone our problem solving skills, As I always say "Welcome to reefing!" Roger is great, He'll be able to help you out. Dave- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timfish Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Pat, I suspect it's using a PWM (pulse width modulation) DC circuit (The power supply is 24 vdc) Hydro, I've got a bad tunze you can have to see if the speed control box is good. It wouldn't look pretty but you could just cut and splice the cords. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Thanks everyone! I'll call roger in a bit and see if he has anything laying around. If he doesn't Tim I would really appriciate trying out the one that you have. I don't care if its cut and spliced, I can do that properly with solder and heat shrink. I was hoping that someone had a bad pump that I could rob parts from! Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subsea Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 BE HERE NOW For a few post on this thread I referred to Hydro as Dave. In my opinion, I consider both Stephen and Dave as Men of Distinction. Excuse my ADD (attention deficit disorder). Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 BE HERE NOW For a few post on this thread I referred to Hydro as Dave. In my opinion, I consider both Stephen and Dave as Men of Distinction. Excuse my ADD (attention deficit disorder). Patrick No worries , but thank you for the compliment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subsea Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Pat, I suspect it's using a PWM (pulse width modulation) DC circuit (The power supply is 24 vdc) Hydro, I've got a bad tunze you can have to see if the speed control box is good. It wouldn't look pretty but you could just cut and splice the cords. Tim, I thought pulse width modulation was "old school". It may hold up with small motors. I am familiar with 1000HP motors which in the past used railroad locomotive traction motors that relyed on DC voltage modulation for fine tune speed control. In the last 20 years the oilfield had evolved to AC frequency/speed control bought about by electronic wizardary. Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Hydro Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 I've been asked a couple of times now so I thought that I should update this thread. Tim gave me a bad pump and I was able to use the controller off of it. I wasn't able to plug it in though, I actually had to cut the wires and splice them back together. Works great, just like it should. Thanks again Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonJones Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 If you ever, or anyone else, has this happen again, you can actually DIY a controller for about $20 bucks. Here is a thread I have been saving to build my own wavebox: http://www.reefcentr...hreadid=1411393 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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