mhart032

Sure i could get a mp10 for 250 or i can get my tunze 6025 for 59.99.. and i dont have to worry about it falling off the glass or falling apart or being noisy.

Ok here is my my take on the vortechs, they are super expensive. yes they are small and compact, but do fall off the glass. yes the motor is on the outside, but thats why you can hear it, cause the motor is on the outside. lets take say a 90g tank and put 2 mp40s in it for almost a grand, and lets take a Tunze 6215 for 500.00 and compare them, first yes the vortechs are smaller and take less real estate, but you have to deal with all the bad thats attached to them and deal with any dead spots you will have. then we have a tunze wavebox that has less problems less hassle and cost 1/2 and can produce a 2" wave over a 90g tank that is more natural than any powerhead you put in the tank. corals respond better to waveboxes more than any powerheads IMO. now there are some tanks that cant use waveboxes like my solana to small and square, but still i wouldnt use a vortech i cant justify spending 400 bucks on a powerhead for a 400 dollar tank just doesnt make sense. the tunze 6025 is my first tunze powerhead and i love it. move more water than any other small powerhead i have seen i run 1 for my 34g and it blows everything around perfectly. i dont think i would have been as happy if i would have payed 400 for a vortech. and i did think about getting one. alot of people in this hobby think that cause it costs more its automatically better. i dont think thats the case.

reading this thread, and i was thinking a gfci should be used so you dont electrocute your self or the live stock with it. as far as the air stones and blubbers. every time i see a salt tank in a show or movie they have them and i have always wondered why. i would not like the micro bubbles forming in the display. as far as it working after being wet. i would suggest you clean it with some 99% alcohol they sell pressurized cans of this at frys that are for electronic boards it will clean all the saltwater out of it and make it like new. i use it on most anything electrical that needs cleaning great stuff..

i dunno what breads is but i want to know as well. .12 cents is cheap i paid 1.79 for 2 at the depot.

I used to have a bunch of pods in my display in my 90g they would fall over from the fuge, but i had 2 down pipes from my overflow one into a sock and one into the fuge and they both met in the middle by the return pump. so the pods would fall over the fuge side and go through the return. i had some big suckers since i didn't have anything in the tank that would eat them. but thats how they got into mine. and i dunno where Andy is been wondering myself, i haven't seen him in some time...

Home Depot sells the plastic screws. i have broke most of the ones on my kalk reactor and have bought them there. they sell all diff sizes. you have to look in the drawers not the posts that they hang the bagged nuts and bolts on. id replace the plastic screw and be done with it. quick and cheap! Matt

Just did my 12:00 testing and its the same as 5am this morning and i haven't dosed buffer since yesterday and its at 8.5.

Well i just got it fixed a couple days ago. it had to be resealed. it was leaking. when i started to have this problem it was not in use. it hadn't been in use for a couple weeks then i started to get the drastic swings.

Yes i have a kalk reactor inline with my ATO

Im thinking about trying a different buffer, i have been using kents super buffer only cause i have a 1/2 gallon bucket, im thinking about trying the brightwell KH buffer to see if it makes a difference.

no no, im saying that between days im getting that much fluctuation not hrs apart. it doesn't really move that much. one day it will be at 9 then a day later it will be at 7.5-8.0 but i have seen it as high as 10 after a couple hrs after dosing, but then settles in at night around 8.5 to 9.0 . im dripping it into the tank and not just dumping it anymore. i have been adding a teaspoon to about 16oz of ro and dripping it into the take a day. and its been fairly stable all in all about 8.5 on the average. still needs to come up a tad but i think 8.5 is exceptable. natural seawater is 7.0 witch leads me to believe 8.5 to 9 is pretty decent range. Matt

Just an update, i started to really watch my alk been checking it 3 times a day and its been pretty stable between 8-10 i haven't noticed any more loss of tissue from the corals and some parts a starting to color back up. well the stag have gone from white to a purplish pink color in sections. so its showing some signs of improvements. thanks for the help guys.. Matt

Im interested in the Blue Turaki and some stag and blue acrapora if you have it available

Nice, makes me happy it's a pretty easy fix! Darn take had me up all night reading about it. Thanks for the imput mike. Really to all you guys. It's very much appreciated.. Matt

Ok, i mite wait, the only one that i care much about that is showing signs of stress is the stag, the Satosa didnt make it. and the others as cheap corals not that they shouldnt be cared for. just meaning that if they got worse i wouldnt mind cutting them. the strawberry postrata and the milli seem to be striving great color huge extension.

If i remember right they are more of an opportunistic feeder they like fish and fish larva but will eat plants too. maybe he will keep the cheato nice and groomed in the fuge? but yea they will eat meat most the time. dead stuff prolly be a better bet to get um to eat it. probably be in love with you for feeding him silversides. Matt

Ok. i think ill give it a day and see if it gets worse before i cut it. but i think there will be a cutting in the next day or so just to be safe. thanks again. Matt PS this solana has been a pain in the a** wish i still had the 90...

Thanks for the quick replys guys. Mark that makes complete sence. My kalk reactor has been down for a couple weeks. Pump issues and leaks just got it back online lastnight. But I was dosing alk it 14oz at a time. Basicly 2 teaspoons a day all at once. Did the coral ever grow back? Or should I cut it. I'd hate to cut it if it will grow back.

looks like a stone crab to me. wonder how he got in there.as far as i know they change color with temp from brown to almost black to light to dark red. i have a friend down in the keys and he runs a stone crab restaurant well thats there specialty anyway.

Hey all, im having an issue with some corals bleaching the one that are being effected are 4 corals as of now, the corals are as followed, Pink Stylophora, Yellow Porties, Pink Setosa, and a large colony of Blue Stag. the corals are bleaching from the bottom of the coral and working upwards. i have been having some lighting issues and finaly got that fixed on Monday, all my levels are in check and checked for flat worms and coral eating starfish but haven't seen either. i do have starfish but almost never see them on corals. its odd to me that the elkhorn type sps and the stag are the only infected. i have much more finicky corals that are doing ok. like lokie, purple monster, organ tort, and my big colony of tri color valeda pearlberry and skittles. i have been dosing algaefix for a couple week to kill a hair algae problem that seem to have started. but is under control for the most part. i also recently noticed some cyano and dosed red slim remover to combat that issue. really the lighting has been the biggest issue or all. i wouldn't imagine that they would bleach from the bottom on a lighting issue unless very stressed but why just the corals mentioned i would think it would be all of them. i have heard about white ring disease, and white plague but cant find anywhere where this has been reported in a aquarium type system so im kinda counting that out. thanks Matt

I'm interested in the oxidizer.

Andy I sent you a pm about it. Did you not get it.

That's a nice looking bowfront. Does it have a center brace? Also what brand is it?

Still have it?

What pump is it. Model. But I'm pretty sure I'll take.