caferacermike

The idea is to wrap the rubberband through the middle of the coral thus creating a clear line of demarcation for the coral to split along. Not so much just popping it's head off like docking a dog's tail.

Write to them Dave. Your idea is a good one and maybe they can change the format with very little work. Think of the credit you'd get. It never hurts to send a quick EMail. I once designed a blade for a hockey stick and sent off drawings. About 6 weeks late I found 4 dozen of them with name laid under the resin propped up against the door of my house. Koho not only used my idea, but Eric Lindros used the blade as I designed it to play for the Penguins. The next year I kept receiving game used sticks and jerseys from players that used the blade I designed. SO give it a try.

Never been a fan of the Vortech after seeing it fall apart in one of Fishypets old tanks. The Vortech is no different than any of the Tunze 7201 type streams, it is only a pulsing powerhead. The Tunze wavebox actually works with the tank to raise and lower the water inside of the tank. The longer the tank the better, at least with the larger wavebox. The Wave2K is a neat product and actually works very well. Plus you can speak directly to the manufacturer who will build one to suit your needs. The only bad thing is that they are large and obtrusive. It is basically a large paddle in a box that turns over via a motor attached with a fan belt. There are corresponding slits in the box so as one side of the paddle spins over the slit it intakes water, as it comes back around to another slit the water is then forced back out. I've always preferred the Tunze wavebox. The nice thing about the wavebox is that you can still run your K4's in the background for added flow while the wavebox continues to wash the tank back and forth creating cross currents.

diamond gobies get very large so I don't think you see them with the shrimp very much. Plus when I had one it liked to roam the entire tank much more than a watchman or jawfish.

What about emerald crabs, porcelain crabs, decorator crabs, arrow crabs, or sally light foot crabs? Somebody is way to quick to dismiss your crab. It kind of looks like a strawberry emerald and if it is you really scored big. I have since replaced all of my hermits with emerald crabs, yep 50 of them. They do a much better job of picking at the rock for food and algae than any hermit I had, plus they don't eat any of my snails nor do they fight each other. See if you can't pull the crab away from the rock and take a picture on a neutral background such as a white dinner plate.

Medusa worm, peanut worm, or bristle worm. "Blind Jimmy's" peanut worm "Ken-Ichi's" Medusa worm "Roberto Sozzani's" Medusa worm Medusa worms are the same as spaghetti worms. "daledaquila's" bristle worm

I got some that looked just like that on one of the group orders. It was advertised to be about that size but arrived about the size of a quarter. Good for you Clint. I much prefer buying colonies to frags.

It all depends upon the coral type. If you are working with that mushroom then failure is almost certain. After you glue them down they shed a slime coat and drift away. As you said before, isolate the mushroom on some small rocks until it has attached itself. Once accomplished then glue that rock with super glue gel wherever you'd like. With SPS frags you can apply the glue directly to the coral. When I mount SPS frags I remove the coral from the water for about 1 minute and lay it on a towel. I keep plenty of small pieces of dry reef rock near the tank, when ready I will pick a small rock and glue the frag to it. I generally bring in a small bowl and fill it with tank water, place in the area of work. Take the frag, dab the end that will be glued with a towel, place a small spurt of gel on the rock where you want the frag, place the frag in the glue for a few seconds and then place it in the bowl of tank water. The glue will begin to harden in seconds under water. After about 2 minutes remove the rock from the bowl. Dry the bottom of the rock. Place some gel on the rock and then place it in the tank. Work the glue around until it begins sticking to the main display rock work. In a few weeks the frag will encrust onto the small piece of rubble. By gluing the rubble, you can break away the rubble piece and move it around the tank if the need should arise.

Yeah some Acans grow out like a brain coral with all the tissue connected and some grow out looking like giant blastomussa.

I used to super glue frags to the wall and when the encrust will then grow all over the glass. Another method is to encase a neo magnet in 2 part putty. Glue the frag to the putty and use a magnet on the other side of the glass to hold it up.

Well Andy, I'm sorry for being me. You'll be better off without me then.

I believe that most of the color rated hobby bulbs are meant for a horizontal orientation. I'm to understand that they don't last long vertical.

Any chance we can see that template you made?

Well Andrew keep in mind that clean water is the most essential tool to a healthy tank. Maybe you should consider doing more frequent water changes? It does not surprise me at all that doing a water change could cause a shift to brighter colors.

I have resigned effectively immediately from my post as meeting coordinator. I hope that Princer feels as though she would like to atke up the position as there is no longer a coordinator of this fine club. If you read my post you will see that I did not in any way whatsoever BASH MAAST. No in fact what I did was to state that unfortunately I will not be attending the event and why. This reduces the amount of PM's about the subject I get. Last years event was horrible and all you need to do is visit the thread from last year to realize this. Folks were sitting in their rooms on the internet logging into both forums asking, begging for information about what was going on because they could not find the events. In fact there was a huge discussion about how the bonfire never happened because the person responsible did not bring the wood. So I stand by the fact that last years event was a failure. Now go back and read my reply stating that I was blessing this years event and that I felt it was much better planned out than last years event. It was obvious that the group was trying to learn from their mistakes and take corrective actions which I was giving them a pat on the back for, and publicly at that. Please also note that I told members to go check it out. So if someone could please point out where I was being an [redacted] I'm all ears. However due to the negative feedback in this thread and being scolded by Princer for not being "professional" at my post at ARC and that somehow I was making an attempt to somehow "make a rift between the 2 clubs", which is complete and utter [redacted], that comment has cost the club it's organizer. So you drummed up ill-will where there was none. I hope everyone is now happy and can get on with "it". Whatever it may be. Mike.

As most of you know, I won't be going due to a personal conflict with Mr.Bird himself however this years event looks to be 100% percent better organized than last years feeble attempt. If you've been wanting to get down to the coast to check out what all the fuss is about, this could be a great opportunity for you.

What would be the purpose for the glass? Being that I'm in construction and always seeing sheets of glass heading for the trash, I'm always thinking about the giant tank I could build. However it is not a viable idea. The glass is almost always tempered, both for strength and safety if it should break. That means you cannot cut it to size. It is almost always only about 1/4" thick being to thin for most any tank that you could builsdwith the sheets as they are generally about 3'x4' or much larger. Not to mention that it is usually very green glass. Your glass shops will hold onto just about every scrap since they can keep cutting it down further. It would be much more helpful to explain the purpose of the glass and to give an idea of what sizes you are looking for, that way if a piece is spotted it is easy to grab. I hate bringing stuff home only to hear someone complain about how it isn't going to work for them.

And not to be confused with majano anemones. BTW are not Duncans called Whisker Corals by some, not positive so just asking.

I have some as well. They are not rock anemones, and they certainly are not hairy mushrooms. I've been told several times that they are a rare Palythoa not often found in the hobby. I like them. Mine move around all the time. What is strange is how they look exactly like my Duncans but without the skeleton. I will be watching to see if anyone thinks they know what they are.

Hmmm Sounds just like my theory about LE corals. I can understand that once upon a time it actually meant something but now every online shop in the world and a handful of our local reefers feel the need to make up special names and suddenly jack up (or rip off depending upon how you see it) us regular reefers. Is it just me or are all of our corals and fish suddenly priced ridiculously high? I remember 2 years ago most shops almost gave zoa away, generally an 8" slap of rock covered in them was $35. Remember only a couple of years ago SPS colonies sold for $45 and now most people want that for their frags. How will the hobby support all of this in the future? It bothers me to think that the greed involved will quickly suffocate this hobby to death. I just saw a for sale post of 4 head zoa frags for $25. There are shops locally selling 2 head Euphyllia (frogspawn, hammer, anchor, torch, etc..) for $100 and they were just $25-30. Nothing is going up at 3% a year it's closer to 300% a year. My point? I blame ORA and the rest for this issue.

It also does not look like a cynarina. It appears to be what is called a donut or also modern coral, sometimes very vaguely referred to as a button coral. SOme might even list it as a scolymia. Cynarinas are smooth with large bubbles, not little wart like bumps.

I wish there was a way to report scam artists. That octopus sells all day for $50, not $500. Not like I would know or have any personal experience or anything, it's just what I have heard.

The "proper" method is to run opposite your tank lights. When they are off your fuge is on. This prevents all kinds of PH swings due to ecvessive amounts of CO2 in the water not being used up by algae. I run mine 24hours a day.

At this point have you taken the pump apart to clean and soak everything? Sounds like the impeller is blocked.

It sounds as though it was purposely deprived of light until the coral purged itself of it's color producing algae. This is very stressful and can kill a coral. Research the way they do this to Sebae anemones. They place them in barrels for about 2 weeks. They come out bright white with purple tips. Within a few months they turn back to their normal blah brown.