JimD

I grow unreal acros at 82 degrees.

Whatever you do, make it easily accessable, it will need regular maintenance. I use one for the same reason but its powered by a Maxi 1200 and fairly simple to get out for cleaning. Its made out of lockline so I can bend it to conform to the rock structure to hide it better.

Not to go against the experts but it really depends on several things, the thickness of the glass, the width of the longest panel and the hight of the tank. If memory serves me, a 40 breeder is 36" wide, and quite shallow. Im running my 65g. 36" x 18" x 22" with no center brace and have been for several years with zero problems, it has 1/2" glass. If the tank is shallow enough and the glass it up to the task, you can at least consider it because it can be done successfuly. Its really up to you and how important you feel the brace is depending on the construction of the tank...

Heres a short article about jellies in the aquarium. http://www.aquaticco....com/jellyfish/ It mentions the use of a round aquarium, very interesting..

Bypass the superglue and go straight for the IC Gel. Much easier to work with and comes in larger quantities. That along with some two part epoxy is the absolute best for mounting frags, rock, pretty much anything.. Hobby Town usually carries it. http://www.aquacave.com/ic-gel-insta-cure-cyanoacrelatebr-gel-20gr-1175.html

Fill the reactor with ro water, add kalk, mix, settle, dose. Never mix and dose at the same time.. I hope youre using a ph monitor or plan on testing ph a few times a day. Kalk reactors are the only way to go as far as Im concerned..

I've recently been having a small issue with Bryopsis, no Idea where it came from, just appeared. As it gradually began to spread, I knew I needed to do something before it got out of control. I decided to use the cuastic properties of kalkwasser to eliminate it or at least pi$$ it off. It was on two large rocks that had corals attached so I had no choice but to remove the larger corals before treatment,. Took the rocks out of the tank and removed as much of the algae that I could scraping the rock with a razor knife. Then applied a generous coating of a thick kalk paste about the consistancy of toothpaste to the affected areas, covered the rocks with newspaper soaked in saltwater and let them sit for about 30 minutes. The results are promising to say the least, its been two days now and whatever remnants remaining are turning transluscent and quickly disappearing. The trick is to get it early before it gets out of control. So far, so good. I need to mention that I rinsed the rocks in saltwater before adding them back to the tank, kinda important. lol

"skeered" aint quite the word I was thinking... lol

Bad thing is, you can never take it back... lmao

Thanks for the great deal Sarah! Got it up and running all is good in acro land! These little filters are a great all around unit good for all kinds of things... GFO, phosban, carbon, sediment filter or just water movement, I now have three... lol

Ill take it, I just need to figure out when I can get up there.... Where are you located? Can you post a pic so Im sure were on the same page? Thanks...

Interested..... About how old is it and does it push any micro bubbles into the tank?

The bulb in the first pic with the blade connections is definately a 250 watter... That bulb pushes into the socket where as the 150 watter fits between to contact pins on the ends.

He's not talking about the stores, he's refering to http://www.petco.com/

Ok, great! Just let me know when and where... Thanks!

Well crap, doesnt look like Im gonna be able to make it up north this weekend so if you want them, I guess theyre yours.... If you only want five, I can take the rest off your hands sometime next week..

I'll take them off your hands.. Love the lil cridders..

Cool, I have some things that may be usefull...

Yeah, lots of people were using thet light a few years ago, mainly to promote algae growth in the fuge. Bite the bullet and shell out for some quality T-5's if you dont want halides.

"Have you used the 14Ks for SPS at all?" No I havent, I only use 10k. I just put the 14k's out there in case someone could use them. The 10k Ushio is a super bright bulb but it will require some actinics to balance it out. Im using a 12k right now and Im not impressed with the double ended version.

I have one, I also have two 14k Phoenix lamps as well. South First/Dittmar area.

The first pic didnt show up on my laptop, the second looks to be pseudocorynactis for sure.. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/mantisfreak/pseudocorynactis.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php%3Fact%3Dfindpost%26pid%3D2538950&usg=__VuQENqUtOTOy69fUKXH_50VUMcE=&h=448&w=600&sz=43&hl=en&start=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=sc5HGrTbXTIePM:&tbnh=101&tbnw=135&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dpseudocorynactis%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26rlz%3D1R2GCNV_en%26tbs%3Disch:1

Google image search 'aiptasia'... Youll find tons of information. These are definately considered a pest and if not controlled, can quickly take over a tank stinging everything in their path,. Possible remedies are peppermint shrimp (Lysmata Wurdemanni) and injecting with Joes juice, kalk paste or liquid calcium.

6.5k Iwasaki is a fine bulb, yes its very yellow/greenish but with a proper balance of 6.5k and actinics, you can achieve a look thats pleasing to the eye and still get the tremendous growth the Iwasakis are known for. I ran that bulb for many years.

Octos eat just about anything with eyeballs, good luck.. Maybe some bristleworms or an urchin but even they might become lunch. More flow and a good skimmer??