Brooks

Hi everyone! Well, as my fry continue to get bigger, the fry/gallon ration decreases. At two months of age, I should only be keeping 1-2/g. That being the case, I was thinking that I could get those 30g Rubbermaid plastic containers and fill them up with about 25g, and run a very strong HOB filter on the back. I figure I could do about 5 of them at least. What is everyone's thought on this? With age, I know the plastic will eventually break. I'd give that a year or two... However, short term this couldn't be that bad of an alternative to glass tanks, could it? Anyways, let me know what I should look out for or be weary of. Thanks! -Brooks-

Bump.

You also might want to try shading them. Acanthastrea are found naturally in low lit areas and will often color better in lower lighting.

Wooh! Thanks, Laura! You still need to come check out the build sometime! I sure will....I think you should extend your success story to the media and/or school districts. You could be a SUPA star!!... I think I might... maybe not the media, but I might let my school in on it, lol. I am trying to document every step. However, I tend to forget to update things at times. I will eventually write a paper on it, though!

Wooh! Thanks, Laura! You still need to come check out the build sometime!

I can host most of your LPS for you... they'll probably like my water and since I feed a lot, they'll get to chow down twice daily.

So far I've got 10 that people have claimed. Many, many more available.

I could house your LPS if you'd like... Plenty of room.

Awesome! Just let me know a rough estimate of how many you're wanting to pick up whenever you figure it all out!

Hi everyone! Well, I am wanting to get a really good estimate of who, here locally, will be wanting my captive bred H. Erectus seahorses when they are of age (around two more months). This might be a tad early to begin, however I'd really just like to get the list going. When the fry are ready to be sold, they: - Will be completely weaned onto frozen mysis. - Be at LEAST 3.5". - Unsexed. They begin to develop their sexes at 4-6 months. Sexual maturity (when they begin to breed) varies. Many have reported births anywhere from 4 months of age to 8 months of age. - Colors will vary from yellow, brown, black, red, and even orange. Patterns will also differ. I will NOT sell based on color, as they have the ability to change their color based on food, water quality, and their tank environment. What YOU as the buyer need to know: - Seahorses do NOT belong in reef tanks. There are many fish that are compatible with them, but most are not. Docile fish such as Cardinals are an example of what is permissible to keep with Seahorses. - H. Erectus Seahorses can reach a size of up to 8" in length. This being the case, they will need a minimum tank height of 18", and a tank with a water volume no less than 20g for a single pair. The technical rule of thumb is 1 Seahorse per 7g, but I personally think it should be 1 per 10g. - It is a common misconception that Seahorses do not like flow, however that is not the case. Seahorses will often times play in the flow. As long as they have many places to rest, and the current isn't too strong there shouldn't be any issues. - Seahorses love to hitch to things. So it is an absolute necessity to have many hitching posts available for them. - H. Erectus Seahorses need to be fed at least two times daily. - Temperature in your tank should not exceed 74 degrees fahrenheit. Higher temperatures will often result in your Seahorses contracting some sort of bacterial infection. - Just as any other fish, Seahorses can be very finicky when it comes to changes in water quality. As you will be keeping your tank fed heavily, it is crucial that you maintain a weekly water changing routine. A highly powered skimmer is also very useful. - Heaters should not be kept in the main tank. Seahorses will often try to use these as hitching posts and burn their tails. - Mated pairs often have fry every two weeks. My largest male has his babies every 15-18 days on the dot. If you are unable to take care of the fry, myself, and other breeders that I can refer you to will gladly take them off of your hands. Flushing them down the toilet is not an acceptable way to dispose of them. There is ALWAYS someone who can give them a chance at life. Any other questions, feel free to ask me and I will do my best to answer them. * I WILL reserve the right to refuse a sale to anyone I think will put them in poor conditions. It will NOT be a personal decision, I simply want these Seahorses being housed in the best conditions available for them. This is completely at my discretion. * As far as pricing goes, they will be $50 each. They retail anywhere from $70-$90, and are often not captive bred. Pictures will come close to the sale date, which as I stated earlier, will be in approximately two months. If you are interested, please let me know and I will begin to make a list. -Brooks-

This would be very nice... I love LiveAquaria.

Was a great meeting... thanks to all who put it together!

Literally the longest polyp extension I've ever seen!

Just gorgeous.

Unfortunately we're only allowed to make group orders with our sponsors, and I do not believe Live Aquaria is one of them.

Sounds like a harmless feather duster to me!

One giant +1!!!!

Looks good. I think they will be good in there for a while. Since there is no filtration you're going to have to really keep up with WC's until you get the 20 set up again.

Pretty sure I saw your brother at RCA today! :S Can't wait to see pictures of the new set up!

The Nitrite test was giving me a 25-30 ppm reading when they were actually 0. I tested them with Mark's Hanna meter. The Nitrate test has given me very inaccurate results before as well. Tested around 20 and they were <5.

I second this. See if someone here locally could lend you a test meter, or a very reliable test meter. If you're using an API test kit, it is very probably that it is wrong.