rosslonghorns

I purchased Mike's, but I passed this on to my friend who is looking for one.

I purchased the first one: Reef/Residential RODI System No issues thus far.

I'm going to setup an order for nitrate and phosphate kits. The first thing I will check is my source water before and after the RO / DI. Looks like I will need to get to the Dome and purchase some Mexican Turbos to at least put a dent in it as I work on getting the source under control.

One last check before attempting the DIY project. My updated dimensions on what would fit under my stand is: 28 x 12ish x 16 high.

Yes, and I actually looked on reefcleaners to order some Turbos, but he didn't have any. I will have to look around locally this weekend, but ultimately I want to identify and fix the issue causing the nutrient spike that drives the GHA. I did see some literature about raising Mg levels, but I think this was focused at specifically Bryopsis. I have an Mg supplement and did raise them from 1325 to almost 1600. This was about a week ago, but did a water change this weekend, so will have to re-test tomorrow to see where it is at now. I'm just confused. If anyone is interested in stopping by to evaluate my tank and methods, it will be much appreciated. I just want to get this GHA under control so the tank can be enjoyed and not be a nuisance.

Here is a picture of the GHA: http://www.austinreefclub.com/uploads/1173..._78_1079989.jpg

I use a RO / DI filter and have the dual TDS meter, so I check output off the RO and also at the DI. I'm consistently at 0 or 1 ppm. I use Reef Crystals. I perform a water change every two weeks. It is about 15 gallons.

So I have all Fiji rock that I purchased from Wolf Reef in SA. So no holey rock. I have three tangs currently. Livestock is: Yellow Tang, Power Blue Tang, Sailfin Tang, Scooter Blenny, two Lyretail Anthias, and two O. Clowns. I also purchased two Sea Hares and still no dent in the GHA. I'm in the process of planning / adding a refugium in the hopes of getting some macro established to help starve it out. That is probably two weeks to a month away. I'm guessing I will get a nitrate and phosphate kit to determine if the levels have risen. Then dependent on that, get some time of phosban reactor going? I seriously doubt the test kits will read anything as I'm sure the GHA is already consuming it, thus the reason why it seems to be thriving, but what could be driving the nutrients? I feed once a day, but only what the fish eat in a few minutes. I'm just frustrated and lost.

Okay, here is a little background. 180 gallon aquarium, running Euro-Reef CS 8-1 Skimmer. It was setup early November 2008. I have a few test kits: PH, KH, Cal, and Mg but everything is normal. I continue to have green hair algae multiplying. I'm looking for some assistance to identify the culprit and beat it. I'm assuming I need to get a nitrate and phosphate test kit first. What else?

Nice, I'm seriously considering the Vertex Alpha Cone now!

Yep, I've been looking at the new Cone line from Vertex / Royal Exclusiv. Pretty neat and an awesome introductory price, but will hold out a bit as the cone skimmers become established and all the kinks are worked out. Nice skimmer, let's see some skimmate pics!

As already stated, it can be done but does take some patience and effort. You must remove the old silicone completely and clean the surface thoroughly. I used rubbing alcohol. I also suggest using painters tape to lay out your seams, then apply silicone into the corner, and just after finishing the application, remove the tape to leave a perfect seam. It makes a big difference as it looks professionally done with no silicone smeared, etc. Just don't let it setup too long before you remove the tape.

+2 for Buckeye, no issues thus far and always get my questions answered quickly.

When I setup my tank, I used the Caribsea Oolithic Aragonite. With my flow, I hated how it always got pulled up into the water column. I ended up purchasing some Tropic Eden (Reefflakes) to put about 1/4" over my current bed to weigh it down. I'm very happy with the sand. It was very clean. In the future if I ever start a new tank, I plan to use it entirely. Do half of the Mini Flakes and half of the Reef Flakes and that should be perfect. I purchased mine through Premium Aquatics. http://www.tropic-eden.com/english/substrates.html

I will take a set also if still available. I'm off tomorrow so I can pick up!

Brand new in Box. Maxi-Jet 900. $12 Willing to trade for coral. Looking for a purple, orange, or red cap.

Well after completing a water change and running double carbon, I didn't lose anything else. I did get a diatom bloom on the sand and I'm guessing that is a result of not finding one of the dead fish. Now everything looks okay and the algae bloom is beginning to recede. I will give it another week or so for the algae to disappear before trying to restock the tank. I did end up picking up a Kalk Reactor and finally got my check valve in from Tunze and got it all setup. I have my Tunze ATO attached to it to feed the reactor. Overall I'm very happy with the result and not having to fill up my 5 gallon Kent Dripper is unbelievable. I love this thing! I will try to get pictures loaded. Green Hair Algae Full Tank Shot

One last check before I purchase a sheet of acrylic...

I've started thinking about plans for adding a refugium to my tank and before I pick up acrylic to build it myself, thought I would see if anything is lying around that fits my dimensions. I'm looking for something rectangle / square. Max would be 32" x 18". Also has to be acrylic. -Justin

I will not be adding Kalk directly to my top off water, but the line will feed from top off reservoir into the Kalk Reactor and then into the system, so the Tunze pump will never touch Kalk. But as a result of your comment, I'm now thinking about potential siphon back to the Tunze pump from the Kalk Reactor. I'm guessing I need to put a one way valve between the pump / Kalk Reactor. Do they make ones that fit 1/4 tubing?

I picked up a used Kalk Reactor today, the Precision Marine. It has the quick connects 1/4" on top. The output from the Tunze is a metric size and is just a bit bigger than 1/4" and barely fits in the connect. For those of you that use a Kalk Reactor with your Tunze ATO, how do you connect the output from Tunze ATO pump into the Kalk Reactor? Do you use the stock tubing from Tunze and jam it into the fitting or use some kind of metric to 1/4" reducer?