eddius-maximus

Looking for just one. Let me know, thanks!

The algae scrubber was pulled a while ago but even still I don't think this event can be attributed to its addition. It was running on my previous system with great success. And I'm not assuming corals that appear unaffected haven't been impacted. I'm anticipating a complete 100% acropora loss at this point. My nitrates are 5, phosphate 0.03, checked this morning. Whatever path I'm on, there seems to be no straying from it. The universal decline in my tank is rapid and, as of this morning, still continuing. The damage has been done and there doesn't seem to be any reversing it. I've come to peace with it and I'm not really angry. Moreso genuinely curious at this point. I'd like for in the future to be able to definitevely say, 'Well I know not to do THAT again.' Except I'm not 100% sure what 'that' is. Marinepure block dropping nitrate too low for a short amount of time? That's a guess and I have no way to verify it. Frustrating.

Its hard to tell in the pic but this one has declined how I’d imagine starvation would do it. The colors are fading and some tissue is fading away getting covered by algae. And here’s some brutal RTN. This coral is a goner, this happened over a period of a day or two. Meanwhile, further adding to my absolute confusion, this wild acro is thriving. It’s growth has increased. Red Dragon RTNing at base and tips getting covered in algae. White skeleton both at tips and base. So yea, this sort of decline is showing all over. I’ve thrown six or seven bone white frags into the garbage already with more to follow. Some are holding out, lots of the bigger colonies are holding strong, at least for now.

That’s correct Sascha and jolt. MP blocks were added, with benefits noticed two or three weeks later, followed by acropora death shortly after. It’s the only thing new that I’ve added to a very simple methodology of reef keeping that I’ve been following for a long time. I just assumed sps starvation would be slower, similar to Sascha. Faded corals and no polyp extension. Whereas what’s happening in my tank is full polyp extension folllowed by immediate RTN/death. Maybe it’s shock from change? There are a few acropora that are quickly fading away though, which is what I’d assume starvation looks like: quickly fading colors and algae slowly covering dying tissue. And then I have other acropora that are STN’ing from the base. Which could be alk burn? I have no idea. Maybe 8.5-8.7 alk is too high once nitrate bottoms out. This is all frustrating speculation as I watch the decline. Just hoping whatever happens stops.

Thanks so much, I appreciate it- no worries, I have more nitrate tests and some stump remover getting next day aired.

My initial reaction as well. I wonder how long it’ll take before the STN and RTN stops from an event of bottomed out nitrate that probably lasted just a few days. I’ve reduced most of my nutrient export. I’m broadcast feeding the acros which I’ve never had to do before.

Doesn’t sound stupid at all, I checked as well. I even added a grounding probe in a last ditch effort to undo whatever is happening. I added a bag of Cuprasorb to the sump to see if anything improves. This blows!

The LPS and softies are doing fantastic, no signs of decline. This is entirely SPS, and it's affecting almost all of them. I double checked alkalinity with both Salifert and Hanna. They're both reading the same -- 8.4.

That's a frightening thought. Although I wonder if thats the cause if jolt's tank would also show degradation as we live in such close proximity.

Carbon, yea. Poly filter no. I can run to LFS when it opens and grab some.

Embarrassingly I haven't checked phosphate or nitrate in years, my kits are long expired. I've always run both in excess. Whatever absence there was is definitely not there anymore. Glass is requiring daily cleaning again and I'm starting to see traces of cyano. I just don't know if the damage is done already at this point. I also don't know of a surefire way to verify if it was a bottoming out of nitrates -- if it isn't, and my theory is wrong, I'm at square one with a problem I haven't addressed yet. Yikes

I've been keeping acropora for years. I've never seen anything like this. Check the pictures -- this level of decline is happening all over the tank. Thousands of dollars, lost. And I can't seem to reverse it. I'm perplexed. I check alkalinity daily. It's solidly 8.5 or a decimal point or 2 north/south of it. My salinity is good. Calcium and magnesium are good. I automatically dose hourly. Can you guys double check my thought process here? About a month ago I added a Marinepure block. The result was AMAZING - the cyano problem I was having disappeared. My glass that I used to have to clean daily was pristine, needing only weekly cleaning. Awesome. A few weeks later, I start seeing white tips. New growth on acros was pure bone, then algae on tips, then it started spreading down. Did I strip my water too clean? I cannot imagine that being the case even with the added MP blocks as I have 28 fish and I feed *heavy*. Still though, I have removed the MP block, I have removed my filter socks, I've pulled my algae scrubber, and I've increased feeding. I did all of this a week ago but the decline is still happening. Every morning I wake up to find a new coral being affected. At this point I'm forecasting a total loss, 100+ acros. They're all showing either bleached tips, base recession, or reduced coloration (which I've never in my life had a problem with before). - If it IS a decline in nutrients (too clean), and I remove some of the export, how long will this degradation happen? Is this sort of thing reversible? I've taken a few frags out and clipped the dead tips but it does nothing, the decline still continues. - If it ISN'T nutrient decline, WHAT ON EARTH IS IT? Metal contamination? I've checked pumps, they're all new equipment. I did have a few magnet Two Little Fishies seaweed clips but they're well sealed. Didn't see any rust or anything.

Yea, they’re both great lights. But I think my tank would look really nice with a row of Radions. Im getting people interested in the trade but only out of state. And I can’t wrap my head around the logistics of swapping lights out of state, so local it is.

Like all good reef decisions, this one is based off of pure impulse and zero thought whatsoever. I love these lights, they're freaking beautiful. But I'm kinda itching for a change. Orphek Atlantik V4 Gen 2 x 2, Orphek Compact V4 Gen 2 x 1, and Gateway. I realize chances are slim but if you're in the area and you have 3 or 4 Radion G4 Pros, hit me up, let's talk.

About a year ago they plumbed off one of their tanks to make a dedicated acro tank. They brought in a *massive* selection of wild acro colonies. Jaw dropping stuff. I must've spent over 2 grand in a month there. Then at some point their new SPS tank started getting gnarly algae. They took it offline to get it back under control -- they never bought another batch of acros. I still call them every two weeks to ask if they're getting any new shipments in. Nothing yet!

Wild acros. I love buying them from Aqua Farms. I've gotten some true gems. But the survival rate is so frustrating. Everything else in the tank is thriving, as was this particular acro -- and then overnight it basically disintegrated.

I feel like a giant Japanese green toadstool leather (aka Lonestar Leather) should be mandatory in all tanks. This was a few months ago and it's already doubled in size from when I took this.

I'd highly recommend hanging fixtures from the ceiling before attempting to remove/refactor the overflow. Plus it'll look cleaner without any obstructions attached to the tank itself. It's really quite easy (and I also have very tall ceilings). Edit: Just snapped a quick pic of my setup. Shout out to my new Longhorn Cowfish chillin in the center. Lol: Ceiling joists didn't line up so I got some thin plywood from Home Depot (painted to match ceiling). Plywood to joists, fixture to plywood. Find center and mark it with painters tape across top of your tank. Then use a plumb bob either home made or a cheap Home Depot one to find plumb center. Easy! I used four wires here, because the Orpheks are incredibly heavy. With those lights you have I'd only bother with 2. Even easier! And to make it consistent, I used 8020 extrusions to make sure the lights were all even. The extrusions also make it 10x easier to attach to wire. 8020 extrusions bought here: https://www.tnutz.com/product/ex-1010-c-1-x-1-smooth-180-bi-slot-t-slotted-aluminum-extrusion-new/ gusset for attaching extrusions to wire: https://www.tnutz.com/product/inside-corner-gusset/

Oh, heads up with the ATB Skimmer -- optimum water height is 8" and those baffles aren't adjustable. And the water height makes a huge difference with the efficiency of those skimmers. There are adjustable skimmer stands available from BRS that I like to use.

The rockscape looks fantastic.

8-8.5 dkh really is the way to go. For a while I kept high alkalinity -- around 11.5 to 12. The amount of 2-part it takes to maintain those levels are exponentially higher than what it takes to maintain 8. The bell curve is incredibly steep.

Your mileage may vary but I could never get chaeto to grow when using GFO. They're in direct competition. Once I pulled GFO, the chaeto exploded. This was even while heavily overstocked.

Gorgeous. Love the grafted monti.

I have a MarinePure block sitting passively in my sump. It's the 8" x 1" version. It does a fantastic job of reducing nitrates. There are lots of concerns of ICP testing showing excessive aluminum with these MP blocks. I don't ICP test so I can't confirm. I do know the first things to show signs of excess aluminum are toadstool leathers and LPS. I have many of these in my tank and they've never shown any negative signs.

Shhhhh it can hear you. Don’t motivate it.