victoly

Message me on FB and we can work something out.


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2nd pic, top right. there are two frags of it on a rock. its a light blue polyp center with brown cilia. very perty. 

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Ive got too many frags for my tank. Time to thin the herd. 

 

I’d start with the easy stuff and the most timid wrasse in one batch (clowns, chromis, gramma and one wrasse). Then move on from there.


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Everything but the tang would be fine. Bioload wise and tank size wise it’s not a good idea IMO based on the rest of your picks.


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Grow light.

Light is brand new. Just par tested.

3000W LED Grow Light with UV&IR,Full Spectrum Veg Bloom 3-Modes 2-Switch Plant Light,Grow Lamp for Indoor Greenhouse Grower with Daisy Chain (15watt led 200pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083XXMMT3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0k.FEbRW3RR5F

$125. Pickup in south Austin.

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best is in the eye of the beholder. I think T5/LED combos are the best option on the market right now for everything but capital cost. 

excited to see how this develops!

Is this where we sign up for those ?


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Did your fish get the same 15 day quarantine and chloroquine phosphate 

Honestly man I'd save that canister money and delay your bioload purchases. Keep an eye here and on FB for the used equipment market. You'll be able to find something in your size range for not that much more than the canister youre talking about that is drilled and has a sump. Problem solved. 

?

I think you're in good shape now. just make sure those nitrates stay detectable, theyre already kind of on the low side. 

Looks like you have some pretty nice gear! Should be a great build. 

I have some info about my WC station in my build thread : 

http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/39716-victolys-210/page/3/

metasorb, polyfill or water changes would be the route i took. 

IMO they overcomplicate. 

In order of importance. Temperature, Dissolved Oxygen, Alkalinity, Salinity, PAR, Calcium, Phosphate, Nitrogen, and Magnesium are the only things you need to worry about. Not all can be monitored in real time, but IMO there arent reliable ways of measuring or taking action on nearly anything else. I think ICP might be OK for presence/absence, but I dont think there is consensus among experts in that analytical field that believe ICP-OES is accurate enough to make decisions on for trending. Just my unsolicited 2 cents. 

Genius marketing on tritons part. Sells you al-po4 remover, tells you your al is too high lol

GFO would get rid of arsenic as well, although I have serious doubts you have arsenic in your tank. Do you see why I dont like ICP now? They got you chasing things that might be real, but cant be proven!

Be very wary of ICP. It's a tool being used outside of it's intended use-case. ESPECIALLY the one you are using, its being operated by an entity that to my knowledge does not have a chemistry background. 

Tin can be found in fresh PVC that hasn't had time to leach out plasticizers. Some new glass panels are also capable of having tin leech. 

As for aluminum, what kind of PO4 remover are you using? Some are Al-based....

Sounds good to me !


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It looks like, really good...

Medicine - $10
Furan
Metroplex
Kanaplex
Seachem Copper test kit 

Meds expired late 2019. Copper kit appears to be unused. 

Finnex Heater - 800w. Tested, but not used. Needs a controller like an apex or inkbird to function. $40. 

Do you notice microalgae issues on new rock vs old rock? My theory is that you have old rock saturated with PO4 that is slowly being released into the water. Your fuge is very effective at removing both, but in the absence of macro the PO4 is released. 

Maybe take it offline, run some form of GFO for a while to see if you can pull the PO4 out of the old rock over time, and then slowly ramp the fuge back up by limiting the photoperiod until you can achieve the nutrient balance youre after. 

is your rock old?

BUUUUUMMPMPPP