victoly

So what was the verdict on what you think was going on?

i feel your pain, but I'm still very leary of trusting ICP. have you sent in a blank sample of just your saltwater? To a different lab? To a lab that uses a different method than ICP-OES? I know its an extra expense, but either there is a tin epidemic in reefing, or there is something related to the analytical method that is showing this as an issue. And as might guess, the primary provider of these tests has given you a reason to do more tests, and pay them more money to do so. 

In my opinion, the probability of this being a biological issue or a nutrient issue is so much greater than the probability that one specific metal is causing you an issue. 

Keep in mind most reefers (and most people) have no actual idea what they are talking about. I have two degrees in geoscience, with my graduate degree in geochemistry and a decade using analytical chemistry to solve problems with minerals and water. I am very qualified in this area. I am still only marginally know what I'm talking about. 
 

Is there anything else plugged into it? I had a busted WAV that shorted out the whole 1link board (and EB832 24v ports). It was fine as soon as i removed it, but otherwise it was not happy. 

I think you're better off putting a sample port after your last carbon block than in your effluent line. 

Another way to monitor or predict failure is with a totalizing flowmeter on your feed water. This isn't foolproof, because the water utilities vary the chloramine dosing pretty regularly based on season, storms and other upsets, but it's a good yard stick. 

Yikes, that is pretty high. I've run my RODI a few different ways (single standard carbon, loose catalytic carbon with chloramine block, and now just universals), but I'm currently just using two BRS universal carbon blocks in series. No or breakthrough yet. 

got myself a double 

You mean you don’t have a display ?


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Looking for an apex salinity probe. get at me. 

very good condition. This is a super cool 2 piece ato with no in tank hardware. 

$65

ive been neglecting to update my build thread because a) im lazy and b) i know its gonna get *pooped* &#*(&# on. 

The skimmer vs. no skimmer debate killed it. 

make sure you can get that sump in and out easy!

MAN. guess I'll be going to SA....

How much did they charge ? The DS wants to fold in shipping to the cost! Yikes!

Where did you get that mix tank? I have been looking for it for ages... tank depot in DS has been backordered forever. 

all sold

sold

sold

Do you have any in the $13.73 range?

susan AND desmond? lol wtf. 

I will take it all pls close thread. 





do you take credit? what about a poorly behaved dachsund? No?

Looks like an exciting build. I know you're thinking this, but if this is going to be a long term tank (even 2-3 years) you might be better served with a 90 than a 75. The extra depth is going to make aquascaping a lot easier and you have no equipment tax (bigger lights, etc.)

Good working condition. Some rust on gauges. $200. 

On 6/30/2019 at 7:17 AM, jolt said:

I agree that is low PAR for coral, but I am not sure how badly the inability to close the lid affected things.  I have no experience with biocube lighting, but hopefully someone else on the forum has more info.   I think at one time maybe @victolyhad a biocube with a light kit on it, but not 100% sure.

Yeah i retrofitted a stock hood with LEDs, but wasnt crazy about it. I eventually went open top and had MH for a bit and then radion. 

Someone has to keep the geologists in check