MasonHoff
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Everything posted by MasonHoff
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i can trade you a sour apple frag for a monti frag
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Dip for a while in each. im probably gonna pick up some coral rx! anybody got a recipe for them all or some! or one?
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what should i dip a new sps im looking to obtain? i have lugouls solution, and flatworm exit! any suggestions?
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as soon as i get home today i will! yea rob they moved in on burnet right across from chuys and taco cabanna. northcross business center i think! matt and his father were super nice too! last time my wife picked up my corals from taylor! glad to see then here in Austin now, it was a really cool getting to gawk at all that coral!
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pickep up a frag of this aussie pink eye acan from Austin Aqua Farms today! (won it on thier auction this week) just stoped be thier new location! matt and his father had just gotten a a bunch of thier corals in the water for the first time today since the move. Thanks again guys! cant wait to see this acan grow! my frag colony
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here is a better look at LR. but just wanted to give you a btter look at LR Rob.
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its purple fiji live rock. from shane at fishy buisness! its almost 100 percent purple! thick amounts! i love it
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i heard the beer tent was not up at 10:45. do you guys get in trouble?
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i am young at this! so if any of you advanced reefers wanna jump in go ahead.... i love learning the thing i do not!
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this is the thread i got my info from when i was learning! http://www.aquarianow.com/dynamics/general-saltwater-topics-4/calcium-for-dummies-21/
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so using the two part buffer you know you will always be keeping these levels in check!
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A calcium level of 500 mg/l is higher than most people run their tanks at but as long as your alkalinity level is also running high it may not be an issue. When high levels (or low levels) of calcium occur in the tank and are out of balance with the alkalinity within the tank, that is normally where this becomes an issue. At the same time that calcium is measured, alkalinity levels should be measured as well. There is a strong relationship between calcium levels and alkalinity that should not be neglected. If the calcium levels get high (over 500) there is a tendency for alkalinity to drop. Conversely, if alkalinity levels get too high, calcium levels will tend to fall as calcium precipitates out.
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you can run you calcium up to 2000 if you want! it wont be used! but it wont hurt anything!
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plus 20 bucks for more than a months worth of calcium and alk! now thats for someone like me with alot of corals like me! but i think it is worth the money FOR SURE!
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by causeing your self more work than its worth (i.e.whack) plus a bunch of trace stuff and you KNOW if you add 1ml per gallon you alk will increase 2.07 kh instantly! you just need to track how quickly you tank is using it along with the calcium.
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for right now i would get your alk around 11 . and calcium over 520
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if you get a good balance! and are doseing alk and calcium every day! you will be doing your self and you tank a favor by being reduced to water changed once a month! i promise! if you take this advice, you will have a pleasnt reefing exsperince! or you can keep searching those forums for wacky ways to do things. and have a headache like you do now!
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no. NO. and No! just got save your self today! and while your at it stop by aqua tek and start doseing TLC every week for a month! i heard of a lady using 600 hundred dollars worth of sea horse's battleing a GHA problem and TLC over three day made it look like it had been eradicated! it works miracles! or u can get it from fishy buisness. tlc is just nitrifying bacteria. keeping your alk above 8 is the key to keeping your reef healthy! i was suprized how quickly the alk droped in my tank every day! you will be too! just dose every day! with the 2 part and soes TLC to get you tank back on track!
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yes sir it is! sound like you bought your self some trouble rock! go buy a 2 part dosing system like b-ionic by esv or kent two part buffer! for your 40 start by adding 20ml a day of each! alk first then cal! and test you alk! at this point keeping your alk up is gonna be your best friend! dont worry about testing calcium now! it will stay around where we need it with the two part system! and slowly take you dosage to where you keeping your reef in between 9 and 11 kh! PLEASE listen to me and go buy esv b-ionic! it will turn your water chemistry around in your reef! keeping your cal and alk in check and very accuratley and cheap might a add for smaller tanks! and to get some good coraline algae! this is a must!
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torched it too long! like two seconds enough to sear the tips. it will slowly turn brown aftera day or two and then you ussual clean up crew will do the rest! but it sounds to me like you haveing water quality issues! i would get my water where i want it before worrying about small issues! (not smal to some of us! ) where did you get your live rock? and how are you dosing cal and alk! cause it you keep you cal and alk up real high the algae will all but melt away!
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my past exsperince with torching! just sear the tips of it and it will all but dissapear! http://www.austinree...__1#entry122890 after several days off research last month! i heard geliduim is almost unstoppable! and got hooked on a thread from last year on a different forum about fire blasting the gelidium. i thought no way ill do that! after no other good ways of eradication and a ton of research and my nerves settled i put a bic wind resistant lighter to the gelidium to barley singe it for a sec or two! and after a month of my hermits and emerald crab eating the dead twigs! i have 0 signs on gelidium and had no parameter swings in water AT ALL! this guy has been doing this for years on diffrent live rocks for years for all types of things (valonia, gelidium, aptisia) during research and SWEARS BY IT! so i tried it, cause i sure as heck wasn't letting it over run my tank! my rock is 100% purple and have had no areas of my rock that has even changed color! IM SOLD! I have pics to prove it if you guys wanna see just use a bic wind resistant lighter for BBQ pits from H.E.B.
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which is before someone goes and gets worked up, that was just my opinion. their will never be hard evidence. like a said it is opinion. but id trust someone that has been reefing for 20 plus years. plus every LFS store that has tanks without any persistant problems (i.e. bubble algae, cyano, and others) that i have visited, use crushed coral. just look around. and if sand was so good why dont you see it in their tanks. just ponder on quote below! and yes some animals need sandbeds! but if i was asked to weighing the good and bad of the two. i think cc would work best! and like i agreed to this is one of many ways to do things. but if you want it for the nitrifying bacteria why wouldnt you just add somthing like TLC or stability. and again If you are using it for biological filtration, you would have to flow water through it. Weather you use it in the bottom of your aquariumor in a refugium, you cannot flow water through it. As the sand sits, undisturbed, it becomes hard and begins to form and trap nitrates and phosphates. If you try to stir it, you will release pockets of these toxic gases which could easily damage your livestock or system If left undisturbed, the nitrates and phosphates accumulate and surface in your aquarium as red slime or cyanobacteria
