DerrickH
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Everything posted by DerrickH
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Amen to this!
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Chemiclean will take the cyano down. Also after chemiclean and 40% WC, turn your skimmer up and wetskim like a madman. Put salt in your ATO though since the wetskim waste will have salt in it and adding plain ATO water will lower your SG quickly. Cyano will be gone in a week doing this. I fought it for a while till I did this. Also, a good GAC is a must.
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Talk to George. He has the apogee sensor thats used with a multimeter.
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Still fighting dino....this sux...
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This has been a very interesting thread along with Gibs sand bed thread as well.
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Got a RBTA...its a monster...hope it splits soon. Need to feed the pig more!
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hmm, I got a D70 from a friend and for the life of me cannot get anything but washed out blue pics. Can you share you settings for this pic?
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Dino is winning again. Im seriously thinking leaving the hobby...
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A multi angle attack works much better when fighting this stuff as you may know. Have you tried dripping kalk and using lathium chloride? Get both of these online then kill the lights for 3 day's, You should start seeing less and less of the stuff after that. Phosphates are thought to play a role with this stuff so you may have some leaching from your LR, the LC will definately help bind phosphates so it can get skimmed out, it will also do the same with the phosphates released by the din...
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Want to hear from anyone using a DSB in their DT, also miracle mud for sump
DerrickH replied to gibs's topic in Reef Keeping
subsea has a tremendous amount of knowledge on biological filtration methods. You can do it with harware, but just requires more elbow grease. Seems a combination of the two would be a sure success... -
YGPM
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Some ROX carbon. I got some and it makes water super clear.
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Turn em down bro. Way down. I say let them recover with low photo stress. I almost lost my slimer because of it. Moved him low in the tank and trimmed my apex way down.
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Brilliant!!!!
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mike was selling one at a good price, not sure if its sold already
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yeah but kids dont grasp the concept that substrate and mag floats are a bad combo...
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so 50% max. Seems the blues "burn" more than the whites IMO.
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I have heard so many stories of people buying AI's only to sell them when all their corals die months later. I was going to switch back to T5 or halides after running LED for a while since I figured they just didnt have the "guts". Thats backwards, like olaggie says, they are mini halides in a way. So in short turn them down.....I run my whites at 30% and my blues at 65% max. Any higher and all my zoas retract and nothing looks happy. I had a nem that would hide every time the lights came on and I have them on a ramp so its no "shell shock" when they turn on. Good LED are seriously underrated.
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I agree, if that much junk is getting to your resin then I'd suspect the membrane.
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Sounds like your rejection rate on your membrane is pretty low. I replaced my resin in Feb but it started showing tds since then. Ive since replaced everything including the membrane. Guess it all depends on how hard your water is coming in. Might add a second resin canister to clean things up even more?
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Dang, ROX and Clear Blue FX pro sure makes my water nice and clear!
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Well all new filters, resin, ROX carbon, and clear blue FX....hoping I can destroy this dino that has returned...
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Yeah, Im finding that coloration has been shifted in my tank as well with just blues and whites. Some for the better, some not so much. Either way, who wants to light up a bunch of dino????LOL
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Look like AOG to me too. I have the Gen 2 AOG with the yellow mouths.
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I got these off of olaggie. They have been rock solid. http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/19442-led-setup-600-georgetown-tx/
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Shoot, love the look of that tank! Whens it up for sale? And with a stand?
