renman303

I think I would boil them for about 20 min before I used them. I don't see any reason that wouldn't be ok but I am not sure how it would look.

Yea, maybe better in a refuge tank or quarentine tank. They are clean and sterile now.

Perhaps I should save myself the headache and get the moon lights that are independent of any other lights? I know Drs Foster and Smith sell them.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...mp;pcatid=12110

Dave

If you are handy with a multimeter you can find the wires going to the LEDs and measure the voltage. If not there is probably a transformer in the fixture to knock down the voltage to something DC. That transformer most likely will say on it what the output voltage is. Find LEDs that are that voltage and splice them in. Remember LEDs only work one direction because they are a diode. Long story short, if you can get to the wires and know the voltage replacing LEDs in easy.

Thanks,

I guess I was just surprised that they went out after having the T5 for only a year and them only being on during the evening? LED's normally have a huge lifespan, no?

Dave

Being a chef and restaurant owner I come across lots of cool stuff. Lately I purchased about 35 pounds of oysters (live of course) to serve as a special. I kept all of the disgarded shells, throughly cleaned and rinsed them and kept them in a huge trash can with recirculating water. I was either thinking of using them in my new tank setup in the sump area in lieu of live rock or perhaps using them in the new tank as "rubble" if you will, in a certain part of the tank? They create their own crevices simply by dumping them and offer a natural basis for coraline to grow on.

I've tested them in small batches before as I now make all of my own live rock. I refuse to pay $6-7 a pound any longer. I have made about 50 lbs so far and with great results.

Thought it was a good excuse to have yourself an oyster shucking party or clam bake!

Just wondered what you thought about the look????

Best Regards,

Dave

Get a starfire tank from Acrylic and Glass Exhibits - (AGE)

I've heard one bad thing about "Starfire" glass. It is very easy to scratch. I'm not sure if it's true, as I heard this from someone at the LFS. It sure looks nice for viewing though!

Best Regards,

Dave

cmanning,

Thanks for the info. I'll probably go with either an Oceanic or have one made by Glasscages. They (Glasscages)to seem to have glass braces across the middle? But, wouldn't you have to have some sort of bracing for a 6'+ tank? What tank might you have? It will be glass and 72"x24"(maybe 30")x31" tall.

"The Colonel" (as I'll refer to the wife) agreed that I could get whatever I needed ! Thinking of enclosing the entire dining room and putting in a roof hatch! LOL My 55 gal is a pain to clean and even aquascape as it's only 13" front to rear.

I plan on using my existing 55 as the sump with it's T5 lighting to grow beneficial algae and use as a refugium, and sump. Thoughts?

MH is what I will get. I guess I may still need Actinic lighting as well?

I still have not decided on either a Tunze or Wave2K yet. Both were impressive but I'm leaning toward the Wave2k mainly because it has no noise, no transferred heat and can't clog because of vent hole size. I'll so some more research though.

Best Regards,

Dave

I can't tell you what to get.. but I can definitely tell you what to avoid:

#1 Tanks with wide glass top middle braces --> maintenance nightmare

(unless you like scraping algea film /salt cruft blocking out your lighting every single day) -

These types of tanks are OK for people with Fresh Water using weak lighting..

#2 Tanks which are any less than 24 inches front to back.

(lack of real estate on the ground level - and hard to properly circulate water randomly in).

#3 The "Single center overflow" == bad dead water zones on the back corners.

#4 Plastic center braces (same melt/crack problems as acrylic tanks suffer from) - and tank explodes all over floor soon as it gives out.

#5 Acrylic of any kind. I won't tell you every reason - there's too many reasons , and I know exactly what sunlight, - even "simulated sunlight" does to acrylic (like it does to most any plastics) over time: (in the case of greenhouse windows - not such a big deal,

in the case of holding back hundreds of gallons of saltwater --> a very big deal).

After you try all the other lighting schema available, you will (if you haven't already) settle on halides.

Nothing man-made -not even the new super bright LED's penetrates 30 inches of water for the same PAR/watts

and tiny footprint as halide.

Unfortunately - do NOT put halide over acrylic. If you do - I give the tank 5 yrs tops (if that long) under halides

(or even natural sunlight) before the crazing from the UV spectrum leads to catastrophic failure.

Ihave a Nova Extreme T5 that has most of the LED's gone out in it. The remaining ones are dim.

Has anyone successfully replaced these before?

Dave

I was really interested in this Wave 2k From Marine Depot. I have seen it in action at the LFS near Northcross Mall. I've also seen the Tunze in action at AquaTec. Has anyone given this a shot? Half price compared to Tunze. It's a bit larger at 16" square but only 2" deep front to rear. The Tunze is smaller in L x W but 4+" in deep. Oh yea, the Wave 2K is about half the price as well.

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_AquariumPage...ers_wave2k.html

Dave

Hey Lee,

Good to hear from you! The wife has let me overrun the boundries a bit to perhaps a 24" wide. Anything is better than the 12" wide 55 gal that I currently have. Perhaps you are right and I should focus on a 24" or 25" deep tank? What kind of lighting would you need to make up for the extra 6" of depth? I'm assuming 400w MH ? There is a beautiful setup for sale right here on Austin Reef Club that is a 30" wide by 24" tall by 72" long. Stand, lights, canopy and all for a great price. I'm just not sure how to make it all fit?

Love to see your setup one day!

Best Regards,

Dave "RenMan"

Georgetown

I am looking to upgrade my 55 gal to a RR 150-180 gal. I was wondering who makes a good tank out there? The only one's I'm familiar with are Oceanic and GlassCages. I have an 82"L space that is an archway between my living and dining room. I have pillars that are about 14" on each side so I figured I'd have to put a 72"x18"x31" tank in. Just looking for the best buy on the market. I saw a nice 250 in the "For Sale" section but, it's 30" wide....a bit much.

Also, since the archway is between the rooms I wanted to use the tank as a room divider but the ceiling is 12' and the wife won't let me hang lights from the arch itself. Any ideas on how to mount some from inside a canopy?

Dave

Thanks for the reply. I also use Mysis, Phyto, and I try to "spot feed" if you will, with Marine Life with Cyclopeeze. I'll mix a shot in a huge syringe with some of the tank water and as you say, shoot it at each of the individual animals. I'm still in experiment mode with only 2 years at this and a small 55 gal. which I hope to replace soon with a 180-240 gal. I also know that I need MH as I only have a T5 setup now.

I was wondering, since I don't have any MH on my 55 gal and only a Nova Extreme T5 setup with 2 10k's and 2 460nm Actinics. What type of MH do you buy? I suppose I would replace the 10k's in the T5 set with all 4 being 460nm Actinics. I have seen tanks with 10k MH and they look very bright. I have also seen 13k 1nd 14k setups and they appear "blue" if you will, in color. Does this make any difference? I do have a number of leather corals, clams (although they are high on the rocks for more intense lighting), and various other inverts.

Here are some pics of my tank if you care to comment.

http://www.austinreefclub.com/index.php?showtopic=2962

The pics are at the bottom of the post.

By the way, I want to use the old hood off of my system to retrofit a MH setup. Has anyone done this?

1. I had a regestered antique 1966 Cobra that I spent 7 years restoring. It (and me)are in a music video by "Cory Morrow" called "Texas Time Traveling".

2. I've lived all over the world as either being in the USAF or after as a GS-13 with the DOD on "Black Programs".

3. My friends call me "Renaissance Man", hence my handle, "RenMan" as I used to teach Kung-Fu, built cars, I'm a Luthier, Musician, Chef and owner of my own Restaurant in Georgetown, Texas; "Nonna's Cucina".

4. I have an 8 year old daughter. Nothing in life means more to me.

5. I met my wife while I was MIS Director at Four Seasons Hotel. I told my friend after first laying eyes on her, "I'm going to marry her". That was '99 and been married since.

Here are some pics. One shows the Toadstool when I first purchased it about 2 years ago. It's hard to see the split in the pics but the Royal Gramma is pointing right at the base that was left attached to the rock. The top of the Toadstool is seen in the next pic attached to the top right of the pic with the rubberband keeping it in place. It is drooping currently, but it's tentacles do come out every day. What do you feed these things or how do you help them recover? Four Attachments. How do you put a circle around a pic or point an arrow to show people what you are trying to point out?

My Leather Toadstool that is about 2 years old literally split itself from it's main base? It was attached to a small piece (3") rock but it first attached itself to an ajoining rock as well then, the trunk completely let go of the base. Now I have a smaller diameter Toadstool (I guess it's in shock because it looks half the size in diameter) that I put into another crevice. It appears to be alive as it's tentacles stand on end during the daylight hours.

Any thoughts?

Best Regards,

Dave "RenMan"

Hey Everyone,

I'm in the market for a new reef system. My 55 gal is getting a bit cramped. Not so much with fish (5) but just no room to aquascape or create what I want. I'm looking for at least a 180 gal with stand. Wife has given me the thumbs up!!!

I saw a great post for a 660 gal for $1500 !!!! But, story of my life, a day late......

Best Regards,

Dave "RenMan"

I will trade for anything reasonable that is "Reef Safe". The Lyretail is beautiful, (this pic does it no justice) but will eat shrimp/crabs. I'm not even sure how to catch the bugger without disturbing everyone else in the tank?

Here is a link to Foster and Smith site and the description. He/She is about 3.5" long and about 7/8" high.

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Di....cfm?pCatId=346

I'm in Georgetown if you are interested.

Dave "RenMan"

www.nonnas.net

[email protected]

That I agree with now that I see the Kalvin rating. So, the best I can figure is if you have the Kalvin color correct and ample wattage, that is what is most important...the type of bulb you are using.

Mike,

I've heard the same for VHO lighting in terms of output. for example; a 48" T5 has an output of 54w while a 48" VHO has an output of 110w. But, T5's are 5/8" in diameter and VHO's are T12's which are 1.25" in diameter each much like the florescent lights in an office. Therefore you can cram twice as many T5's in the same amount of space alternating bulbs like 460nm and 10k.The T5 lighting also comes in a multitude of spectrums, Actinic, 420mn, 460nm, 50/50, Ocean White, Ocean Blue, Daylight...

Here is some more to convelute the lighting situation...

Why not Halogen lighting if you are just looking for light output to reach the depths of your tank, as these need no huge ballest like 300W T-3 halogen- 5950 lumens, 2000 hours. Massive light output, cheap at about $19 and at 8 hours a day would burn for 250 days.

Again, I still don't think I've heard a logical explanation to why "MH" lighting is best suited?

Dave "RenMan"

This is great, people! I think while most of the Marine reef setup is subjective (bio-balls, live rock, refugium...) the lighting issue to me makes the least sense. I've never heard a good explanation of why MH lighting is the best. The bulbs vary in spectrum and light output so greatly that just to say, "MH is needed" is totally untrue. I too, have a Nova Extreme T5 setup on my 55 gal with 2 54w 10k bulbs and 2 54w 460nm actinics. My corals thrive. "Wryknow" hit the nail on the head...it's a lot more than just Lux, or wattage or Par even. I would probably be better off investing in about $200 of individual icecap reflectors for my T5 setup to redirect the light then $900 for MH lighting for my size tank.

Again, if color temp of a particular MH light is equal to what my T5 setup is producing (and with a lot less energy consumption and heat output)...why even bother with MH? If we are trying to duplicate the Sun's rays, why not put in a "sun tunnel" in your home directly over your tank and forget the lights altogether? I've seen this done before as well.

Sorry for beating this to death...just need to hear some logical explanation.

Best Regards,

Dave "RenMan"

www.nonnas.net

Mediterranean Fusion Cuisine

"If you don't know who we are, you don't know what you're missing!"

No expert, just doing some research. I've purchased a lot of stuff from "Live Aquaria" and Dr. Foster and Smith. Reading the most recent catalog it stated (which is true) that you can't go by Kalvin for obtaining a proper MH light that LUX (Lumens) or light output is more accurate as Kalvin is "Color Temperature" and "LUX" is the standard rating for light OUTPUT.

Anyway....the oxymoron is their own catalog does NOT tell you the "LUX" of each of the MH lights that they carry nor does their web site. They do suggest using a light meter (great idea) but, still does not give the shopper any idea of how to narrow down the field of a hundred+ MH lights out there.

I found this site to be of great help. Great prices as well.

www.businesslights.com

Check out this light: Ushio 400W 10000K Mogul Base Metal Halide Lamp

[601860]

$99.90

UHI-S400AQ 400 watt 10,000° Kelvin Aqualite Metal Halide Lamp

400 watt Aqualite™ lamps have a high color temperature from a single point source which simulates the appearance of sun light in ocean depths of approximately 5 meters. The superior spectrum balance of the Aqualite™ lamps make for ideal lighting conditions for reef systems including fish, coral, other marine fauna and flaura, and plant growth.

Required Ballast: M135 pulse start metal halide

Wattage: 400

Base: E39 Mogule Base

Operating position: Universal

Initial Lumens: 18,500

10,000° Kelivin - 90 CRI

Average Rated Life: 8000 hrs

It even gives you the light spectrum which you can enlarge as well.

Just thought it was cool info.

Best Regards,

Dave "RenMan"

www.nonnas.net

Nonna's Mediterranean Fusion Cuisine

"If you don't know who we are, you don't know what you're missing!"

Does anyone know of a MH Retro-fit Kit? I want to replace the florescent lights in an old set of hoods that I have that fit my 55 gal tank with MH to add to the Nova Extreme T5 setup that exists now.

I've checked with Dr. Foster and Smith and they no longer carry these kits.

Best Regards,

Dave "RenMan"

www.nonnas.net

Mediterranean Fusion Cuisine

Yes, I guess I was referring to "Salt Licks". Ha, never heard them called that but, makes sense!

Just wondering whom out there uses these large "Mineral Blocks" to replenish calcium, magnesium, etc.... If these work, why mess with 10 bottles of chemicals? I know of someone that adds one of these blocks to his 180 gal until dissolved (about 3-4 weeks) and adds nothing more. Has a beautiful reef setup (I'll get pics) and nothing more than live rock. No bio-balls, no chemicals, etc....

Thoughts?

Best Regards,

Dave "RenMan"

www.nonnas.net

Dude: I do have a Prizim Deluxe Protein Skimmer. and an overflow skimmer on my Wet/Dry.

Caferacermike: Thanks for the offer. I'd be curious to see what my TDS may be? ****! I just got a bunch of supplies in today from Foster & Smith.

Dave