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Posts posted by renman303
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Does anyone know of a MH Retro-fit Kit? I want to replace the florescent lights in an old set of hoods that I have that fit my 55 gal tank with MH to add to the Nova Extreme T5 setup that exists now.
I've checked with Dr. Foster and Smith and they no longer carry these kits.
Best Regards,
Dave "RenMan"
www.nonnas.net
Mediterranean Fusion Cuisine
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Yes, I guess I was referring to "Salt Licks". Ha, never heard them called that but, makes sense!
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Just wondering whom out there uses these large "Mineral Blocks" to replenish calcium, magnesium, etc.... If these work, why mess with 10 bottles of chemicals? I know of someone that adds one of these blocks to his 180 gal until dissolved (about 3-4 weeks) and adds nothing more. Has a beautiful reef setup (I'll get pics) and nothing more than live rock. No bio-balls, no chemicals, etc....
Thoughts?
Best Regards,
Dave "RenMan"
www.nonnas.net
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Dude: I do have a Prizim Deluxe Protein Skimmer. and an overflow skimmer on my Wet/Dry.
Caferacermike: Thanks for the offer. I'd be curious to see what my TDS may be? ****! I just got a bunch of supplies in today from Foster & Smith.
Dave
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Here is my filter setup: " Running a Wet/Dry skimmer setup with NO bio-balls, two-stages of filter pads.
I'm gussing that I have zero TDS since all of the water I use is from my R.O. system???? How do I test for this?
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Thanks for the help guys....
How long has your system been set up? ~ 2 years
Do you know the TDS (total dissolved solids) of the R.O. water you are using in your salt mix? Never tested for TDS??? the water is at 1.025 s.g. if that helps? I am using R.O. system that I set up for water changes into a 30 gallon food safe trash can.
How often do you perform water changes? In my 55 gal I do about 10 gallons every two weeks
What type of filtration are you running? Running a Wet/Dry skimmer setup with NO bio-balls, two-stages of filter pads. I also recently put an Activated Charcol bag in the sump to clear the water a bit. Last night I put some SeaChem "Phosguard" into a media bag as suggested. I guess I did have something for phosphates...???
Water Flow? I have my Rio 2100 @ 695 gph, Mini Jet 1200 @ 295 gph and a new Seio Super Flow 1100 @ 1100 gph. Today, I'm replacing my Minijet with another Seio 1500 @ 1500 gph.
Currently running: 2090 gph
After today: 3295 gph
Up until the past month or two, I've never had Cyano or any algae issues? I was even thinking of using that "Red Slime" chemical to rid the Cyano but, I'd rather not use more chem than needed.
Here is why I decided to add some Electric Blue and Electric Orange Crabs to fight the issue: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Di...cfm?pCatId=1479
Dave
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Gabriel,
What is a "Fishies Reactor and Rowaphos?
Dave
www.nonnas.net
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Does anyone use/recommend these for a reef tank? I'm perplexed as I have a Cyano breakout? I have ordered some Electric Blue/Orange crabs as I understand that they eat Cyano. I hear that a UV Sterilizer takes care of Algae and bacteria but, what effect does it have on Cyano?
Best Regards,
Dave "renman303"
www.nonnas.net
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I have attached a pic to the first post on this topic. Turns out, it is "Purple". I wondered about a chemical called "Marine Clean". States: Billions of probiotic sludge-eating bacteria reduce maintenance time by creating a cleaner and healthier aquarium environment.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...&pc=1&N=0&Nty=1
Best Regards,
Dave "renman303"
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Then, I'll contact Richard and get a Wave2K. I'm tired of throwing good money after bad. Might as well measure twice and cut once!
Dave "renman303"
www.nonnascucina.net
Mediterranian Fusion Cusine
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These Tunze systems appear to be 230v? Are you using a step-down transformer?
Austin Aquariums by Northcross Mall has a great wavemaker in one of their tanks that is about 2" deep and takes up the entire right side (short wall) of the aquarium.
Dave "renman303"
www.nonnascucina.net
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That is why I thought the SEIO was a great deal. Inexpensive, wide disperal and hook it to a wavemaker timer and it's done. The flow on these is incredible as well!
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod...4&N=2004+113040
Flow Rate
(gal/hr) Cost Dimensions
M620 620 $34.99 2.17" x 2.6" x 5.5" high
M820 820 $44.99 2.38" x 2.88" x 6" high
M1100 1,100 $57.99 2.56" x 3.23" x 6.5" high
M1500 1,500 $61.99 2.8" x 3.25" x 7.3" high
M2600 2,600 $79.99 3.2" x 4.13" x 8.3" high
Dave "renman303"
www.nonnascucina.net
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I'm buying a bathroom/kitchen cabinet for my stand. Covering the top with 3/4" ply. Cabinets are made of the same if not better wood than tank stands. You can then get them to match the decor of your home without all the "black" sticking out. Not to mention, shelving and pull out drawers make life a lot easier.
Dave
renman303
www.nonnascucina.net
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John,
Thanks for the input. I've heard horror stories about the Rio's so I'm "86'ing" mine even though it's right at the 700gph output. I do have Hydro-Flo balls on my Maxi 600 and Maxi 1200. I like the random output but they seem to restrict the output too much???? I just put the wide dispersal thing back on each of them and aimed them from back glass to the front glass and slightly down to stir up the sandbed. I'll look into those Tunze. I was impressed with the fuction of the SEIO as well as they dispersed water at 120 degrees across.
Best Regards,
Dave "renman303"
www.nonnascucina.net
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Hey Folks,
Just wondering what you recommend for upgrading my wave making on my 55 gal. I am one day going to go to at least a 120 gal but not for the next year or so...
Here is what I have:
Rio 2100 @ 695gph from the sump
MaxiJet Model 600 (160 gph)
MaxiJet Model 1200 (295 gph)
Total Water Movement: 1150gph
I was thinking of replacing the Rio 2100 from the sump with a Mag Drive 1800 either this MaxiJet Wavemaker setup:
Model 1200
(885 gph - 295 gph x 3) $89.99
Mag Drive 1800 @1800 gph $129.99
Total Cost:$220
Total Flow:2685gph
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod...1&N=2004+113782
OR
adding two SEIO pumps for wave action, one on each side of the tank;
M620 $34.99 @620gph each, with the same Natural Wave Timer at $34.99. Plus the Mag Drive from the sump.
Total Cost:$235
Total Flow:3040
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod...4&N=2004+113040
Thanks for your replies...
Dave "renman303"
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Cool, so, if it's just "Looks" then I'm going to try and make the tank look twice the size with reflection. I think this will help with everything growing behind the rock as well.
Dave
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Why do people Black out or Blue out the back of the aquarium? Seems easier to add one of those decorator sheets that you can get from the LFS?
I was thinking of securing a piece of polished Stainless Steel to act as a mirror thus enabling light to better reflect to the back of the rocks and make the tank appear larger without having to worry about the salt effecting it like it would on a mirror.
Thoughts?
Best Regards,
Dave "renman303"
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Wow!, I'm underflowing by a ton! I have about 800 gph moving in my 55 gal. What type and how many pumps are you guys running?
Dave
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If you are in the market for a Wrasse in Georgetown, I have a 4" Lyretail Wrasse for sale. They are not classified as "Reef Safe" but, if you have a FOWLR, this is your guy. I'd like $30 for him or will trade for some nice finger corals. Here is a link to see what it looks like. Only differnce in mine is the center of his tail is white and not yellow and is pinstriped by lavender then blue outside of that.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Di....cfm?pCatId=346
Dave "renman303"
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I have my Rio 2100 that I think pumps about ~300 gal per hour from the sump as well as a MaxiJet running 160 gal per hour and a MaxiJet running 295 GPH. So, I'm pushing over 700 GPH. The Maxi Jets have those "self spinning wavemakers attached to them like you get from Dr. Foster and Stearns.
Do I still need more flow?
Dave
renaman303
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Thanks Gabriel,
I just Googled Cyano Algae and found this site: http://reefsources.itgo.com/features/artic...es/cyanora.html
This synopsis has a lot of checks and balances. Perhaps this can help a few people out. I think in my case it's the amount of food that I'm feeding as well as the Iodide and Iodine that I've added.
"In summary, there are several things that you can do to rid your tank of nuisance algae, and most of them are probably good ideas anyway. Listed below is a recap of those items:
Protein skimming
Maintenance animals
Increased flow
Feed lightly
Vacuum substrate or bottom
Harvest algae
Stop adding supplements
Regular water changes
Use RO/DI water
Top-off with Kalkwasser
Regular bulb changes
If you implement these things, you can say cyano-ra to nuisance algae."
Best Regards,
Dave
renman303
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Is there a way to "86" this mess without killing off corals and inverts?
Dave
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Dhayden,
I think you're closer with the "Deep Redish", though it does have patches of a deep purple hue to it. No hair at all but it's smooth almost plastic bag-like? Feels slimy to the touch as well?
Dave
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I'd love to join you guys one day. I played drums for about 10 years and have been playing guitar for 30. I also build "one of a kind" guitars as well and maybe I could bring a few with me?
Best Regards,
Dave
renman303
MH Lighting
in Reef Keeping
Posted
No expert, just doing some research. I've purchased a lot of stuff from "Live Aquaria" and Dr. Foster and Smith. Reading the most recent catalog it stated (which is true) that you can't go by Kalvin for obtaining a proper MH light that LUX (Lumens) or light output is more accurate as Kalvin is "Color Temperature" and "LUX" is the standard rating for light OUTPUT.
Anyway....the oxymoron is their own catalog does NOT tell you the "LUX" of each of the MH lights that they carry nor does their web site. They do suggest using a light meter (great idea) but, still does not give the shopper any idea of how to narrow down the field of a hundred+ MH lights out there.
I found this site to be of great help. Great prices as well.
www.businesslights.com
Check out this light: Ushio 400W 10000K Mogul Base Metal Halide Lamp
[601860]
$99.90
UHI-S400AQ 400 watt 10,000° Kelvin Aqualite Metal Halide Lamp
400 watt Aqualite™ lamps have a high color temperature from a single point source which simulates the appearance of sun light in ocean depths of approximately 5 meters. The superior spectrum balance of the Aqualite™ lamps make for ideal lighting conditions for reef systems including fish, coral, other marine fauna and flaura, and plant growth.
Required Ballast: M135 pulse start metal halide
Wattage: 400
Base: E39 Mogule Base
Operating position: Universal
Initial Lumens: 18,500
10,000° Kelivin - 90 CRI
Average Rated Life: 8000 hrs
It even gives you the light spectrum which you can enlarge as well.
Just thought it was cool info.
Best Regards,
Dave "RenMan"
www.nonnas.net
Nonna's Mediterranean Fusion Cuisine
"If you don't know who we are, you don't know what you're missing!"