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renman303

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Posts posted by renman303

  1. Does anyone out there know how to stain and score concrete? Especially if you do it for a living? I'm in need of having the carpet and removed from my dining area and the tile from my entry and having these underlying areas stained and scored.

    I'll need to do this prior to having the carpenter ( I need one of these too to build the new tank stand ) set up the new tank stand.

    We are going to turn the dining room into a reading room for my wife and general fish-watching, relaxation area.

    ps: Anyone like to barter? I do own the premier Mediterranean Fusion Restaurant in Wm. Cnty!

    www.nonnas.net

  2. Here is a link to the testimonials on the Wave2K site. I have to agree that the Tunze being "tuneable" is more cost effective as the Wave2K is not tunable the way the company has it currently setup. Tanks over 120 gallons to 180 gallons motion is considered fair.

    I'm building a prototype that will be "tuneable" but in the interim I will be buying a Tunze.

    On the note of undo pressure on the seams, this is not feesible as the unit moves in an up and down motion and not front to back. Furthermore, an equal amount of water enters the top as is pushed out of the bottom and visa versa. I do think the design could be better and I will put some of my ideas and any you may have (PM me with these), into the prototype. I'd like to see what one unit could do on a 215 gallon or larger.

  3. ckimble,

    I'm in the same boat as you. There are 18 year olds that could now run circles around my playing! I do have some really cool vintage instruments. My grandfather was a very gifted player. He taught Joe Pass how to play. Joe lived a few blocks from him. I have my grandfathers acoustic guitar and his 1929 Yale 4 string banjo. I have no idea what to do with the banjo!!

    mburton,

    You took on quite a deal with building an acoustic as your first project! They are 5 times harder than electrics. But, both are equally hard in making the necks. Take you time and map out the radius prior to any carving. Make sure to use calipers all the way. Let me know if I can point you in the right direction!

    I have an acoustic that I started some time ago but with my biz, I've had to put it on the back burner. I can't wait to get it finished. Before my mother died she bought me a 14K gold plaque that says "Custom Crafted by David Osmar". I'm going to mount it inside of the sound hole. It is patterened after a Martin MC-28, single cutaway. Just need to put the top and bottom on, fret it, bind it, and and polish it ( I hate laquer).

  4. SO I have seen people mention b4 that a wavebox could shorten the life of your seals on the tank or cause concern for a blow out? True or False??

    I don't see how that's even possible? A wave box is almost purely mechanical working like a plunger? The motor sits outside of the tank? I'd sure like to hear about this though. I was impressed in seeing it in action and love the fact that is does not clog. Theoretically, it's easy to build and can be done to almost any dimensions for about $30 in parts plus a motor. I have plans for DIY kit if anyone is interested?

  5. John,

    Thanks for the post, this is a big help. Also, thanks again for the time you and Brian gave me in answering my questions about everything from tank design to equipment needed. This is what helps me make a much easier decision on where to spend my money! ;)

  6. Guys, Thanks for the input.

    Actually, I have no idea what I need in the way of equipment ! I'm thinking of a Barracuda for a pump (only because I heard Aaron talking about it at his house). This is how I'm getting my ideas! I've heard good things about a "Euro Skimmer, RC18 or something like that? I need a calcium reactor, I want a sump that will accommodate all of the equipment plus some beneficial algae, live rock and a few shrimp. I also need a Tunze for the tank. I contacted "John" at "Aquarium Obsessed" and he was a great help. I told him I wanted a 72x26x26 that was eurobraced instead of having a center brace and a starphire glass front. He suggested, "An internal overflow greylite glass, 4hole 2 durso, 4 bulkheads".

    Other than that, I don't know what I need? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  7. I have a 3.5"-4" Marine Betta. It's beautiful and elegant as a swimmer. Prefers cave spots during the day although it will come out. Mainly forages at dusk. It is NOT reef safe with shrimp although it doesn't seem to bother my dwarf blue leg hermits, snails or any corals. I would like to trade it for Coral Banded Shrimp or something to that effect...go figure? :huh:

    It took me months to get rid of a Luna Wrasse for the same problems and this dude sold me this as "OK". Next thing I know the shrimp are gone.

  8. Just a quick tally to see if we have any musicians out there? Sorry if this is a repost!

    I played drums for 10 years and have been playing guitar for the past 32. I also do luthier work and build one-of-a-kind electrics as well. My daughter, just turned 8 on Feb. 9 also plays drums. She's wicked good compared to how I was at that age. Any with only 6 lessons under her belt, she rivals most 16 year olds....I'll have to make a YouTube video.

    Proud Papa, I am... :huh:

    Dave "renman"

  9. I know there are infinite number of plumbing options, closed loop, etc....But, If I end up ordering a tank "new", all of the manufacturers want to know:

    Overflows: How many and where?

    Holes for plumbing: How many? What size holes?

    My current setup on my 55 gallon is external skimmer through a sump into a chiller and returning to the tank so, I'm really not sure what to tell these guys?

    Anyone want to chime in on what's important? :huh:

  10. Since the tank I originally wanted to build is a no-go, I am going to purchase a 215 gallon tank to put against a wall. Probabaly from DSA. The reef ready tank has two overflows, one in each back corner. It's 1/2" thick glass. It has center braces. It's $1100. The same 215 gallon tank in "brick" form is a massive 3/4" thick tank with no braces, large single center overflow. It's $2300.

    Is not having bracing and a center overflow worth $1200? Or should I put this money into lights, skimmer, calcium reactor?...

    I know Cmanning has a 215 brick but I believe her's has two overflows, one per each back corner.

  11. Since the tank I originally wanted to build is a no-go, I am going to purchase a 215 gallon tank to put against a wall. Probabaly from DSA. The reef ready tank has two overflows, one in each back corner. It's 1/2" thick glass. It has center braces. It's $1100. The same 215 gallon tank in "brick" form is a massive 3/4" thick tank with no braces, large single center overflow. It's $2300.

    Is not having bracing and a center overflow worth $1200? Or should I put this money into lights, skimmer, calcium reactor?...

  12. Well.....I just hit a giant snafu on this project. I don't know what made me take a look at the architectural plans for the home but now I've come across a huge problem. My entire second bathoom is in the way! I thought that the bathroom was only as deep as the closet. RAT FARTS!!!

    I could either go back to the "room divider" look or keep the slanted look but place it against a wall. Everything else pales in comparison to this "in the wall" project.

    Back to the drawing board.... :rolleyes:

    post-155-1203258439_thumb.jpg

  13. This is the spot that I've picked to install the new tank. It will be custom designed. AGE tank, Euro-braced, Starphire glass front panel, external overflow off of the left side to hear the wave action, 224.41 gallons measuring 72x24x30. I decided on an external overflow to maximize internal space.

    The tank is being built by John and Brian at Kingfish.

    I just purchased a great deal on a "Perfecto Prestige Stand and Canopy" thanks to "Britfish". He sold it to me for $375! They list at over $1100 ! Im concerned that the whole thing is built out of 3/4" ply including the supports??? I may just add a 2x4 attached to the 4 middle supports for piece of mind. the corners are of 3/4" ply that is doubled up. I guess it's OK as is, as even Oceanic's stands are built the same for that size.

    The tank will be plumbed through the wall shown in my dining room wall (We are converting it to a sitting room) and into the garage where I will have auto fill features coming off of the R.O. system into storage tanks. I will also include a drain in the garage to pump out the sump for water changes. We may even add two doors from the garage opposite the two doors on the front right of the stand to access the sump for maintenance directly from the garage. Spills here will be no problem.

    Speaking of which, the sump will be a refuigium that will consist of my old 55 gallon setup. I already have an "AquaStep 25w Ultraviolet Serilizer" And "Nova Extreme T5 setup with 2-10k and 2-420nm Actinics".

    Pics at Photobucket link: RenMan's Photobucket for 225 gallon aquarium

    Dave "RenMan"

    renman303

  14. Are extra chemicals really needed? I mean there are literally dozens of additives from "Mineral Blocks" that dissolve slowly to Stronium, Iodine, Iodide, Calcium, blah, blah, blah....

    1.) Are any of these really needed on a regular basis?

    2.) What do you use and why?

    Two LFS that I have just visited said, "Essentially....No". "If your tank is well established then the need to add anything much is unlikely." Perhaps just maintaining calcium levels for rock and clams...

    I can understand if you check the calcium level and it's low. But, "Trace Elements", "I-Tech", "Coral-Vite"........

    I only add Phytoplankton, and Cyclopeeze Marine Plankton for the Clams and other filter feeders and a big Mineral Block for most trace elements and calcuim to be supplied. I have no issues with my Pistol Shrimp or any shrimp and everything seems healthy for the past 3 years.

    Just wondering.....

  15. The slant end faces the front door and does get some filtered East sun. I don't think that will be too much of an issue. I do think it will add some "natural" appeal and give a nice view lengthwise.

    I'm not sure who will build the tank yet. Since just making this decision yesterday I have already spoken with a rep from Deep Sea Aquatics. I like what they have to say on their site being all of them are the former employees of the Oceanic Company that shut down in Dallas. Master builders as well. They only use Starphire glass.

    I've read good things on Aquarium Obsessed as well.

    I can tell you whom I won't use: "Glasscages".

    I may also bring the tank down to 30" deep as the proposed setup is 36". That would still give me ~335 gallons. I'm not sure how easy it will be to not only setup but, work on a tank that's 36" deep? Where the spotlight is located in the art niche I thought I'd keep that sort of "recessed lighting" theme down the length of the tank for the MH double-ended lighting. It will be clean looking as there will be no hood. I will have "art frame" panels above to access the lighting and below there will be removable "raised panels" on the slant side and two on the long side for complete access to the sump and everything else.

    Getting that ~800 lb monster into the space should be quite an undertaking,

    Any thoughts guys and gals?

  16. The Coloniel, as I affectionatly call her....has without pause, agreed to the placement of my new up and coming Reef Tank! Guess I'll keep her around awhile! ;)

    Originally, I was going to place a 215 gallon (72"x24"x31") between two pilars dividing my living room and dining room.

    Multiple issues here: First and foremost, the removal of the carpeting and refinishing of the floor. Secondly, what if we wanted to rearrange the room? Now we have a huge monolith smack-dab in the center of the two room and no room flow. Third, I would need a custom stand with access from both sides of the room and there is really no place to hang the MH lighting.

    So, inspired by a post on Reef Central: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=1304924

    Built into the wall from a guest bedroom closet. This was a great idea. post-155-1203129639_thumb.jpg

    I don't have a guest bedroom nearby but upon entering the front door of my home, I have a vestibule closet, art niche and 5 more linear feet of wall that is 30" deep. The art niche is 26"x30"x54" high. The remaining straight part of the wall is 59". I'm sure that I could for ease of measurment bury it an extra inch in length to 60". I will make the tank in this shape:

    Here are some shots of of the art niche and wall where I am going to put the tank.

    post-155-1203129577_thumb.jpg

    post-155-1203130491_thumb.jpg

    post-155-1203130836_thumb.jpg

  17. I'm convinced....I want nothing to do with this company now! I phoned them for a quote and the lady who answered was very curt and snappy. I just chalked it up to someone falling off of the wrong side of the bed...I guess she did, and landed square on her head !

    I will now check out "Aquarium Obsessed" and others. I'm going to post some pics here in a sec to show you where I want to put this tank. I'll start a new thread though so you can all see the progress.

    Great help guys! Thanks for covering my 6 !!!!

  18. Carlos,

    Thanks for the link....The DSA tanks look really nice! I've heard that this is the company that bought out Oceanic?

    I was looking at Glasscages as well. They have a 240 gallon that is 72x24x31 tall that is Reef Ready, bulkheads, 2 overflows, Starphire glass on both sides including stand for $1900 delivered to Dallas. I'd still have to drive up there but I'm sure the tank and stand would fit in my pickup. Seems like a really good price considering that I got a price on an Deep Sea 215 the other day with oak stand and it was also $1900. But the DSA did not have Starphire Glass.

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