lighting again: set up options

[+KeeperOfTheZoo]

Ok, got the whining out of my system, now I need some constructive input on lighting solutions.

I have been looking online today at lighting fixtures and I'm seeing a real lack of them in the 6' range. The ones I have found are more than double the cost of 2 - 3' fixtures.

I do not have a canopy on my tank and I'm not really looking to add one. I actually like the totally open top and would either like to hang fixtures or mount them on the tank (depends on how the studs run in the ceiling above the tank and if I want to run braces between them if things don't line up right) and keep the top of the tank open. I guess I could try and build a suspended canopy and use a kit to install lights... but right now that's just sounding complicated. Wiring is not my thing.

With that in mind, how have y'all lit or seen in practice a standard 6' 125g tank be lit if you don't have one 6' fixture?

I was debating using 2 36" fixtures, but I'm not sure if that would just look to messy/cramped. I've seen one picture where someone had a 2-3' fixture <couldn't tell size from pic> standing on the center brace and two smaller tank mounted lights on either end and it really didn't look bad. I have a large glass center brace so could do something like that. I just want to keep it as simple as possible.

My other question is about T5 lighting. I'm going to upgrade from PC when I buy new fixtures. I do not quite understand how the lower wattage of T5's translates into more usable light (PAR?) for tank inhabitants. I know the whole watt per gallon measurement is flawed, but it seems to be the standard guideline used. I understand wattage for PC lighting. All I am finding online when I search for info on T5 lighting is that you can't use the PC watts per gallon method. So great, what do I use?

How do I know how many watts of T5 lighting I need to achieve good solid 'moderate' lighting? I do not want to keep SPS. I primarily want to keep softies and some of the lower light LPS.

Thanks so much!

Liz

[cmanning]

Hey Liz,

I believe the tank pic you're talking about is "Tonya"...she did have a 3' light fixture that fitted just perfectly on top of her glass middle brace and on each end, she had clip on MH lighting. I don't remember about the wattage or brand of light fixture she had. It really lit her tank beautifully. I'm not sure if she still has the same lighting and went to a larger one and it might be suspended. She lives in Leander and we've been to her place before to help out with some electrical wiring. I guess it wouldn't hurt to give her a holler. I believe she has the pic you're talking about as her avatar.

-Cindy-

[caferacermike]

If price is an issue, I would buy 2x 3' (if they are truly cheaper), and make a small piece of metal to wrap around both fixtures and rivet them together in such a fashion as to make it all look like one fixture. That is if you don't want 2 separate fixtures hanging from the ceiling. I hang my fixtures on tiny wires and it looks great, especially since my ceilings are about 16' high. The fixture just floats there. I think 2 of them side by side would look just fine, however I understand wanting just one. I used to buy ROckford Fosgate car amps and they used to sell this trick little piece of metal that woudl join 2 amps together to look like one giant amp. That's where I thought about doing the same to 2 fixtures. Band them together and repaint them black again.

[mikedelgado]

I would also do 2 fixtures. 1 72 incher is going to be a whopper. I think it would be easier to do bulb maintenence cleaning and what not. Also with 2 you will still have lights if 1 croaks and you have to send back for warranty service.

[Bill B]

I am not an expert, at all, on lighting, but since no one has addressed some of it, I thought I would throw in my 2 cents worth. I personally necessarily do almost everything on the cheap so I am going to address this from my point of view.

Although your eyes will confirm it you just have to take it on faith that watt for watt t5 HO lighting is more powerful than PC and Metal Halide is more powerful than T5.

T5 3' bulbs are only 39 watts so you are probably going to need at least 4 of them over a 3 foot area. The nicer setups, with individual reflectors are going to have 5 or more bulbs, but for my pocketbook they are pricey. Actually what Tonya had/has is a pretty good setup. If you can find them used that's 2 clipon or hangin pendants at around $150 each and a 4 tube 3" @ $150-$200. You might be able to cut that all the way down to a 4 bulb 24", but now is only 96 watts and still is going to be $100 up. I heard you talking with Robert. If you can go with a partial canopy or suspended lights it may take a while to find but you can probably find ballasts, reflectors and bulbs for 150-250W MH at about $100-$150 per set (used), ideally using 3 sets. I think even 150s may be adequate for your needs but the 250's easier to find. Electronic ballasts are more, fancy reflectors are more and maybe not needed if you are not going to do SPS. The problem is almost everyone starts off not going to do SPS and eventually does. There are many other combinations and permutations but that's a quick picture. HTH

Bill

[DaJMasta]

It's an unusual approach, but what about lining up the lights parallel to the smaller tank dimension? So if your tank is 6'x2' for example, you buy maybe 4 2' fixtures and arrange them all parallel over the length of the 6' side. It would probably result in better coverage if that is a concern, though it also probably increases the number of fixtures used. If you're looking to make as few fixtures as possible, an aluminum or wooden box of sort to contain the fixtures would probably look best. Even just a wireframe style box in place of a normal canopy would hide some of the cabling and mounting of each fixture and unify its appearance somewhat into one light unit, while maintaining more openness than a canopy. It would have to be built, but it wouldn't be a huge job or a really difficult build by any means.

If you're really looking for minimal fixtures, a pair of Halide fixtures (perhaps 150W each) would give you lots of light in a fairly small pair of fixtures, each of which could probably be suspended from the ceiling by a single mount in the center, and each fixture would probably be only 1'x6" or so, leaving a lot of open space to keep the canopy-less feel of the tank. Of course then you've got no actinics unless you use LEDs.

On the LED option, maybe mounting several recessed lights in the ceiling above and using high powered LED bulbs would get you the look you're going for. That would make the top of the tank completely fixture-less, the lighting hidden somewhat, and it allows actinics. You would have to be sure to use fixtures rated for high wattage bulbs to have enough ventilation to use the LED bulbs to full effect, but with wider optics you wouldn't even need that many of them.

[Bill B]

It's an unusual approach, but what about lining up the lights parallel to the smaller tank dimension? So if your tank is 6'x2' for example, you buy maybe 4 2' fixtures and arrange them all parallel over the length of the 6' side.

Man I love outta the box thinkin'. It would have some problems as do other options, but WELL DONE on the thinking process!

Bill

[offroadodge]

so is this to exspensive?it has some pretty cool features.

http://www.drsfoster...u=0071221000000

I found it cheaper here

http://www.petsolutions.com/default.aspx?ItemId=10901035&eid=TheReefTank

[subsea]

Liz,

Along with substrate, reef lighting has many mixed bag opinions. A PAR meter is the only way to truely evaluate light output in a reef tank. Because I raised coral commercially, I used economics to determine my lighting options. Only with the use of a PAR meter can you compare accurately what you are looking at and paying far.

IMO all lighting systems have their place. Each one does its job. I have maintined a low light 55 G reef tank with four 40W florescent tubes: 3W per gallon. With respect to most lighting it is all about the reflector. From the point of view of electricity consumption power compacts are the best bang for the consumed watt. Look at the screw in PC that are in most sumps. I use 15W 6500K bulbs. The advertising on the package compares the lumanus of 16W to a 65W incadescent bulb. Even though there are some descrepancies in the comparison the analogy is similiar.

While I know little about growing SPS, I have grown most every thing else. I do not push coral with light. I feed coral with refugiums. To each his own.

http://www.apogee-inst.com/bqm_spec.htm

The meter at this link is $300. I have had mine for ten years and find it invaluable. For the amount of money spent on reef lighting systems a dozen friends should get together and purchase one meter to be shared as required.

Happy reefing,

Patrick

[subsea]

Liz,

There are two other options that I have not heard discussed. URI makes a VHO bulb that is 6' long that would light up your tank. The bulbs are $30 each and rquire a $10 high heat end cap. An Ice Cap electronic ballast would be required. I would guess that it would cost $600 for a four bulb fixture and you would be pushing 600W.

100W at ten hours a day consumes about $.10 per day. So the 600W fixture would cost 6 X $.10 per day X 30 days per month equals $18 per month.

The second option is the one used by commercial growers of corals and plants indoor. Use a metal halide pendent on a pulley system to move the light source to cover the complete tank over time. The effect of this is very nice in that the aquascape changes continually, instead of being bathed in the same intensity of light at all times. Over time this becomes very economical because of the reduced electrical cost. On a 6' tank you could run one MH as opposed to three. The light pulley on a rail have been around for a long time and are high quality.

http://www.marinedepot.com/Sunlight_Supply_Light_Rail_3.5_Complete_10_RPM_Kit_Light_Rails_for_Aquarium_Lighting-Sunlight_Supply_Inc-SL2931-FILTACLR-SL2933-vi.html

Check it out, it is under $250.

Patrick

[+KeeperOfTheZoo]

Wow! Thank you so much for all the ideas!!

Offroaddodge... That fixture is *perfect*! Thank you for finding the link!!

So with 8x 39w of T5ho what level of lighting would that give me? It's lower wpg than my pc lighting, but again, I know that doesn't translate over that way.

Would that be enough light for softies and moderate light LPS?

I know most folks seem to aspire to SPS, but years ago I fell in love with the look of a tank loaded with soft corals and I've wanted one ever since.

I think the idea of a floating fixture suspended on wire sounds awesome. I like the open top tanks a lot.

Thanks again! I ordered the ballast for my current fixture, gotta limp it along through the spring rush. I'm about to be so busy with farm stuff I won't be able to tinker with the tank as much. I just need my current fixture to work until I can get the next one planned out and set up.

Hmm, I like the idea of a slim line floating canopy too... Grr! Gotta narrow down my options.

Liz

[offroadodge]

i think you should be fine with softies and LPS, see if they make that fixture in an 8x54w B4 you buy. i looked again, they dont. hhhmmmm......it may not be enough. You can build a lighting system cheaper than buying. I wish i could help!!!! a mixture on VHOs and T5 would be good.

[offroadodge]

ok, i found another light that i think will work alot better.. See what u think....I have one of there old 8x54w 48" lights. Ive had it for 4 years now no problems. Might have to buy better bulbs but maybe not.

http://www.catalinaa...roducts_id=1427