cmanning Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 We have a rather large Duncan Colony and my question is....Can it be place in the lower part of my tank under 400W MH? or is it too much lighting? I've read the lighting requirements is low to med light as well as the water flow, but I would like to know if brighter lighting, then what they're getting, can bring out more of their color like they use to. Anyone w/any input will be greatly appreciated. P.S. Right now is on the lower part of my tank and its in a shaded area/ low to moderate water flow. Thanks, -Cindy- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhart032 Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Man thats awsome coral. From what i have read about Duncan or somtimes called Daisy or Whisker coral, is low in the tank and out of direct light. 400watt MH mite be a bit much unless you can find an over hang in the rock or something to place them under.. from what i understand if its the Ora strain for some reason it can take more light, dont know why it can but it can.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 I got my piece with about 12 heads on it maybe 6-8 months ago and placed it on the sand bed directly under a 250w halide, about 20" below it. I have been target feeding it and adding tons of calcium to the water. It has grown to about 50 heads and about the size of a grapefruit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnoburns Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 I've got 3 different types and keep them low to medium placement in my tank. I have them with medium flow. To me medium flow is what most of my lps seem comfortable with (which might not be medium flow for SPS guys). I don't know much about different strains of duncans, but that is on my to do list. If someone knows a good site for information on strains please post it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmanning Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 I got my piece with about 12 heads on it maybe 6-8 months ago and placed it on the sand bed directly under a 250w halide, about 20" below it. I have been target feeding it and adding tons of calcium to the water. It has grown to about 50 heads and about the size of a grapefruit. 250W MH @ about 20" below it vs. 400W MH @ 28" below it might be a little too much light for duncans......probably they can get by the 250W. I just don't want to burn them or damage them to the point of not recovering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhart032 Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 thats what i was thinking, thats a huge difference in light. i know what you can do. you can just give them to me i have a great spot for um low and shaded.. lol.. what about tring to make a little shaded area with some rock. just something to block alittle of the light atleast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmanning Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 thats what i was thinking, thats a huge difference in light. i know what you can do. you can just give them to me i have a great spot for um low and shaded.. lol.. what about tring to make a little shaded area with some rock. just something to block alittle of the light atleast. I do have them on a shady area w/low to moderate flow......what I was wondering if they could get by a little more light (can duncans adjust to more lighting), without damaging. I've read certain corals, like acans, can adjust to brighter lighting by slowly adjusting them and moving them up to rockwork (getting them off the sandbed). Thanks for the offer anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmanning Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 I've got 3 different types and keep them low to medium placement in my tank. I have them with medium flow. To me medium flow is what most of my lps seem comfortable with (which might not be medium flow for SPS guys). I don't know much about different strains of duncans, but that is on my to do list. If someone knows a good site for information on strains please post it. I too would like to know more about the different strains of duncans that are available and their care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhart032 Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 I found this at AquaHobby Although considered rare and expensive in the US, Duncanopsammia axifuga is a common addition to many Australian reef tanks. Usually found in deeper water near sandy substrate, Duncanopsammia axifuga is very adaptable to lighting conditions. Coloration can vary from gray-pink to light green on the tentacles, a pink to intense blue-green on the oral disc and brown to bright green on the corallites. The size of polyps (including tentacles) can be up to approximately 4.5 cm across, while the corallites are approximately 1 cm to 1.5 cm across. It is a fast grower given the right conditions, and usually develops new polyps directly adjacent to an existing one. As with all other LPS, maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels is necessary, while excess phosphates and nitrates can slow growth. I have a nice specimen that resides in a corner of my 42 L nano-reef indirectly under a 70 W metal halide. Consisting of 9 polyps when I purchased it, it has developed another 12 polyps in the space of 4 months, and has also changed coloration from a fleshy pink to bright green on the corallites and oral disc. Multiple open polyps can shield the skeletal structure from view, particularly on large colonies. Propagation is as easy as cutting the 'stem' of the coral to separate polyps, although as this coral grows upwards it will not attach itself to reef structures, and I find it is best attached via the use of an aquarium-safe putty such as Selley's Aqua KneadIt. While possessing zooxanthella and being capable of photosynthesis, this coral appreciates regular feeding with any meaty marine foods able to fit into the expanded polyp's mouth. I feed occasionally with chunks of prawn or mysis, which is very easy due to the adhesiveness and reactivity of the tentacles. Duncanopsammia axifuga is a relatively unaggressive coral, incapable of producing sweeper tentacles, and generally comes out underneath when competing with other stony corals. It is best left with plenty of space to grow, as well as relatively unaggressive neighbours such as Blastomussa sp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caferacermike Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 You know... the more I think about it 400w does not seem like that much more light than a 250w. If we were comparing a 70w halide to a 400w then sure it's a huge difference, however we are only talking about an additional 150w. That's not even double. Not trying to argue about who is right or any other fun stuff, just thinking out loud as I read those replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmanning Posted June 29, 2009 Author Share Posted June 29, 2009 You know... the more I think about it 400w does not seem like that much more light than a 250w. If we were comparing a 70w halide to a 400w then sure it's a huge difference, however we are only talking about an additional 150w. That's not even double. Not trying to argue about who is right or any other fun stuff, just thinking out loud as I read those replies. No worries here....I take as it is "information" and I think you're right. I"m going to place them somewhere in the moderate/high lighting "just a little more exposure than what they're getting" and we'll see how they do. Thanks for all the replies and we'll see how the colony adjust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmanning Posted June 29, 2009 Author Share Posted June 29, 2009 I found this at AquaHobby Although considered rare and expensive in the US, Duncanopsammia axifuga is a common addition to many Australian reef tanks. Usually found in deeper water near sandy substrate, Duncanopsammia axifuga is very adaptable to lighting conditions. Coloration can vary from gray-pink to light green on the tentacles, a pink to intense blue-green on the oral disc and brown to bright green on the corallites. The size of polyps (including tentacles) can be up to approximately 4.5 cm across, while the corallites are approximately 1 cm to 1.5 cm across. It is a fast grower given the right conditions, and usually develops new polyps directly adjacent to an existing one. As with all other LPS, maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels is necessary, while excess phosphates and nitrates can slow growth. I have a nice specimen that resides in a corner of my 42 L nano-reef indirectly under a 70 W metal halide. Consisting of 9 polyps when I purchased it, it has developed another 12 polyps in the space of 4 months, and has also changed coloration from a fleshy pink to bright green on the corallites and oral disc. Multiple open polyps can shield the skeletal structure from view, particularly on large colonies. Propagation is as easy as cutting the 'stem' of the coral to separate polyps, although as this coral grows upwards it will not attach itself to reef structures, and I find it is best attached via the use of an aquarium-safe putty such as Selley's Aqua KneadIt. While possessing zooxanthella and being capable of photosynthesis, this coral appreciates regular feeding with any meaty marine foods able to fit into the expanded polyp's mouth. I feed occasionally with chunks of prawn or mysis, which is very easy due to the adhesiveness and reactivity of the tentacles. Duncanopsammia axifuga is a relatively unaggressive coral, incapable of producing sweeper tentacles, and generally comes out underneath when competing with other stony corals. It is best left with plenty of space to grow, as well as relatively unaggressive neighbours such as Blastomussa sp. Thanks for posting the info...good to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnoburns Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 Just another thought...If you have a big enough colony and are still worried about light. You could frag a single polyp and see how it does higher up and use it to experiment with. This would also let you compare color and growth rate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmanning Posted June 29, 2009 Author Share Posted June 29, 2009 I didn't thought of that one, but thanks .....I might go that route and see. I think I've got a fraggable single polyp....the skeletal structure is tight that I have to be careful not to damage the adjacent polyps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnoburns Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 Fragging them is pretty easy, and they have a good reputation of being pretty hardy after fragging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooks Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 Let us know how it goes! I've been stalking this thread... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mFrame Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I fragged mine recently, the only real issue is how tight the heads grow. I used my dremel with a diamond blade and it cut very easily. Wear safety glasses though, I got some in my eye and spent a few days wondering if tentacles were going to grow out of my tear duct. Also, mine slimed a bit after cutting, so you may not want to put it right back into your tank. It took about 3-4 days to fully recover but once it did the main colony extended even larger than before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmanning Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 I fragged mine recently, the only real issue is how tight the heads grow. I used my dremel with a diamond blade and it cut very easily. Wear safety glasses though, I got some in my eye and spent a few days wondering if tentacles were going to grow out of my tear duct. Gotcha on the safety glasses.....and yes they do tend to grow very tightly. Yes...my husband had one of those incidents where he kept on rinse his eyes just to make sure some strange growth didn't starts budding off from the eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnoburns Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I used coral clippers to cut mine. I made sure it withdrew completely into the skeleton before cutting. I didn't have any liquid shoot out at me, but safety glasses would probably be best. I had two small containers of saltwater near by when fragging. One to rinse the coral and the other let it recover for about 10 min in before adding it back to main tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmanning Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 UPDATE: I took caferacermike's advice/personal opinion and the duncan colony is doing much better. They're extended more and they're coloring up...plus we placed them where they get catch their feeding when feeding the rest of the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.