centex99 Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 So, fairly new to this forum, so I'll introduce myself as well. Name is Michael and I live down in Buda. Previously had a few aquariums, only sw being a 14G Biocube I had for about 6 months. Ready to give it another shot. I work from home on the 2nd floor and may move in the foreseeable future if I find a house I want to buy, so decided to go with a slightly smaller tank. Purchased a 40G breeder at Petco along with 2 20L tanks. Plan to use one as a full time QT tank and the other as a sump. Plan to have both setup in my office and setup an RODI system with a 25G tank in the connecting bathroom (unused area). So far, that's all I have. I need to order the RODI and build a stand/canopy. Trying to decide on paint vs stain and construction method ie: 2x4 or 1x4 + plywood or just plywood... I plan to drill the tank and possible buy (or make if I get super inclined) a low profile overflow such as this one: (on ebay it's $120 and rated for 1200G) Any recommendations on sump design/layout (thinking just a 3 chamber), plumbing, pumps, lights, stand plans, other things is greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 That overflow is way overkill for a 40 breeder in my opinion. I have a similar one on my 180 gallon tank. I put a glass holes overflow on my 40 breeder and was pretty happy with it: http://www.glass-holes.com/700-gph-Overflow-Box-Complete-Kit-gh700kit.htm I think @Reburnhas the same one on his 32 gallon and has managed to make it super silent .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Yeah, I've since determined that as well... my only concern with the 700gph glass holes kit is it being a single return. I was wanting to run a herbie at a minimum, but maybe I'm over paranoid and the single return is fine as long as I can get it quiet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 I have the 700gph glass holes kit on a 34g cube. It's quiet, not silent. But quiet enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 I now have sand! Also bought a Ocean Revive T-247B LED Light... hopefully it will be enough for the 36" tank. I plan to mount it somehow in a canopy. I guess the next thing I need to work on is the stand and canopy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 1 fixture left to right is really pushing it on a 36" span... But you could do it if you don't mind really shadey areas on the edges of the tank. They are best setup to light 24" left to right.I'd do two front to back myself on a 36" tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Guess I can order another one then... going possible wait to try to find one on sale. Any suggestions on how to mount those to a canopy? I think I might build the entire stand out of 3/4" plywood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Ty, what do you think about the Current USA Orbit Marine LED light instead? I could get the larger one made for 36-48 and resell the 247B... though I'm going to also eventually need a lower cost light for my 20L QT tank to be able to QT corals... but it doesn't nec need to cover the full 30". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Ty, what do you think about the Current USA Orbit Marine LED light instead? I could get the larger one made for 36-48 and resell the 247B... though I'm going to also eventually need a lower cost light for my 20L QT tank to be able to QT corals... but it doesn't nec need to cover the full 30".I have no experience with the Current USA unit but if I remember correctly, it is lower wattage and probably best used to keep low light coral. The Ocean Revive fixture can be used to keep high light corals, such as acropora if you ever decide to keep them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 I may go with this even though it's overkill... I still think it'd likely be more quiet though than the 700gph one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/800-gph-LOW-PROFILE-Overflow-Box-Bulkhead-Mounted-aquarium-surface-skimmer-/201291912999?hash=item2eddeed727:g:9HcAAOSwbqpT59Y6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 That could work. I noticed the text describes it as having one bulkhead but the picture shows otherwise. If it were me I would want to see where the bulkhead is actually configured to make sure I can do the plumbing the way I would want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Yeah, it seems they can customize it as well. I was thinking of using that and just doing a herbie so perhaps two drains on bottom... 1/2" drains wouldn't seem quite enough though... maybe it'd be good if that (8" wide) had two 1" bulkheads thru the tank and then two 1" bulkheads down... or any opinions on best combination of holes would be taken. Also should I go with 1 or split the returns and 1/2 or 3/4" returns? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Of note, I was planning to run a filter sock and most holders seem to have 1" bulkheads... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 Haven't got much done in the way of this as I'm still working on plans. I am using a 20L as a sump and am trying to decide if I want to run it as: input (socks) w/ skimmers -> baffle -> fuge -> double baffle -> return or input(socks) w/ skimmers) -> double baffle -> return <- fuge w/ the return having a manifold to feed the fuge and a small reactor. I think I want to run a small combination carbon/gfo reactor (perhaps the BRS 5" version). Based upon this, what size pump should I get... I was thinking the sicce 3.0, but it might be a bit too much... so perhaps the 2.0 version. I'll likely also run 1 or 2 smaller powerheads in the display as well. Any recommendations? Also, any recommendations on a protein skimmer? I'd also consider used equipment of anything I'm looking for to help save some money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 I'd be worried that the fuge would have to be pretty small to leave room for the equipment. If it were me, I'd try to draw out the layout with the equipment footprints to see how much actual room there is for a fuge chamber I used the jebao wavemakes on my 32 gallon. They are effective for the price, but only last for a couple of yeas in my experiece. For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192I0QEK?th=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 So, I think this is going to be my basic support for the stand. Overall 40" tall. All 1x4 construction with glue and pocket screw. The tank will be resting on the middle board that's only supported up top on the cross pieces, but it's only a 40 gallon and should be ok... If not, I may make it go thru the side 1x4s (make it 2 vs 1) and put an upright there on the sides. I'll be gluing a front faceframe on (hardwood) and a mostly full rear (perhaps with some slots for venting. On the front I'll have two doors and two fake drawers (maybe one real on one side). I want at least one side removeable... Haven't decided if I am going to make them out of plywood or make them look like doors, or face frame them and add doors... wife thinks the doors would look weird, so likely one of the other options. I plan to have the a U shaped wood piece that lines up behind the tank to hide the plumbing that will be removeable. The stand will then cover the edge of that like it covers the edge of the aquarium with maybe some crown coming up/etc. The canopy will be similar in design and go around the tank and U plumbing hider. In regards to the sump, I was figuring about 12x16.5" for the skimmer/intake section, 12x5" for the return pump, and about 12x8.75" for the refugium... I figured the intake and refugium would be about 7" water height, leaving enough headroom for power outage draining/etc. The return pump section would likely be closer to 5-6" with an ATO setup of some sort. For now, I was thinking just a gravity fed and may add a stand in the cabinet to hold it. Would perhaps run kalkwasser in it. I lost my hand drawing of the decorative portion of the stand, but will work on getting it into sketchup and update later. Plan to make the drawer/door fronts with a simple beed stile design with 1/4" plywood inserts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Maybe you could put a pair of 1x2 from the bottom middle brace up to the top one for support? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 I like that idea... and it's better than using a 1x4 since it'll only take up an extra 1.5" (3/4" per side) of space inside my stand to hold stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 Though... I'm back to contemplating if I want to even make a frame like this to then cover it with an almost identical frame out of red oak/maple/etc... or just make it so this frame is the finish wood/surface and do something a bit different in regards to how I cover the edge banding on the tank... I was originally thinking the skin would essentially go up higher than this support frame and in turn cover the band Though I could just as easily have some molding that just goes up from the side if this frame structure were the outside layer. Obviously, I'd still put a piece of plywood over the back to add support there and enclose it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolt Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 I've seen some nice stands that were just made of out high quality 3/4" plywood with no support structure. You get the full interior space that way, which is nice. Requires something like a Kreg jig I believe. Try googling this "aquarium ada style stand plywood kreg jig" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluemoon Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Jolts right on point. Some gorilla glue and a 20$ kreg jig set can go a long, long way. (Also a corner clamp - I can't believe I lived without one for so long) That being said, it will come down to how comfortable you are with your work being structurally sound. 3/4 plywood can support 40g, no problem. The real question will be can you get the ply cut evenly enough to not have leveling issues. For me - it's always been easier to build a frame first, and skin. Peace of mind carries a lot of the weight when dealing with water. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 I feel I can make it strong enough... I'm more concerned with how it looks and functions... Without a doubt I want to hind trim on tank and make sides of stand look good and have some method of removing an access panel that looks different from front doors... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 Some new stand designs... this time, plywood... Front is 1x4 and 1x6 hardwood for the faceframe/support, sides, back, top, shelf, canopy, and u shaped box behind the tank to hide plumbing are all 3/4" plywood. Doors are 1x2 (2 actual) frames with 1/4" plywood. All the trim is 1x4 hardwood. So, the rear of the tank in this design is purely supported by the plywood top. But is only a few inches from the rear in regards to support. I think this will be fine... a calculator for bookshelf sag says a 36x24x3/4 plywood shelf with 500# would only sag 0.06" That's with it only supported on the sides, whereas this will be supported front/back. The bottom shelf for the sump I may put in daddos on the plywood sides/back. Haven't decided yet. I may also rabbit the back into the side pieces. Here are some pictures... Thoughts? I plan to make it out of oak and stain it a darker color. Though, I may be tempted to change to maple depending on what I can get the wood for. Other things I've considered, instead of making the doors so tall, I thought about putting in drawers (or at least a fake drawer). The canopy, I plan to just have it sliced about 4" back and have a piano hinge on top. I'm considering buying a decorative stile/rail bit for the doors... also haven't decided about the 1x4 trim... it's main purpose is to hide the black trim on the tank and make it look slightly nicer... I have a few various router bits, so I could in theory decorate it up a bit. I've considered making a side panel that's removeable, but the wife doesn't want it to look like a door, plus it would reduce the strength of the plywood support... so not sure about that. I think if I just have the door, there's plenty of opening to be able to access everything inside. In regards to drawers, if not, I'm thinking I should put in a shelf. One of the pictures shows a dashed line at 23" above the sump (represents the tallest skimmer I'd likely consider)... I haven't figured out in all of this what I should do in regards to mounting a power strip, possible future controllers, etc. I think the backwall of the stand would be sufficient for mounting a reactor or two and also plan to use it to mount plumbing/etc. So, now's the time to make any recommendations, suggestions, etc on what you wish you had in your stand, so I can design it in now! I made the stand be 36.5" wide and the tank is 36 3/16". I figured that gave a slight amount of play on everything fitting nicely with the trim/etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 Oh and the front column separating the doors isn't structural... I was planning for it to be attached to one of the doors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
centex99 Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 Ugh... the low profile overflow I wanted from modular marine... and they're not taking orders until end of March :-/ There's a few others on the market, but don't look quite as nice. I may just have to make one perhaps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.