Sascha D. Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 I would stay away from Reef Octopus skimmers and pumps unless they're DC. The non-DC pumps sound like jet engines! I have an Aquamaxx protein skimmer and like it a lot. They're not silent but I can't hear it with my stand shut. The Jebao 12000 return pump has been serving me well. It's near silent for 2,000ish gph and it has ten speed settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 I've been very happy with my 150 gyres. My 130 moves significantly less water for similar dollars. I would rather run the 150 at 10% then my somewhat noisy 130 at 70%. Any experience with Tunze? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 I've had experience with most power heads. I haven't played with any of the newer dc tunze. I got away from ac powerheads that didn't have speed adjustments. I really like what I've been running so I haven't felt the need to experiment any. At this point I am running Jebao on my mixing barrels and QTs. Vortech mp10wqd on my little cube and gyres on my frag system. My only gripe about the Jebao is they randomly break and need to be cleaned regularly. I like my gyre 150. They are silent under 70%. They do need to be cleaned regularly. The flow will decrease around 45 days if not cleaned. I like my mp10wqd but I wish they were pointable. They never need to be cleaned, and are silent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 OK, with the few days of temperatures >50, I went ahead and put a new coat of black on the stand along with painting the back of the tank. I ordered new bulkheads and other unique plumbing items like gate valve. I should get that next week. I also ordered the Syncra Silent 4.0 for my return pump. Next items I want to accomplish are electrical related: I plan to add a dedicated line / breaker for the aquarium (any pro/con versus GFCI plus vs GFCI breaker?) and want to build something to attached to side of stand to hold power strip, pump controllers...I still haven't decided between Tunze vs Gyre. It would be mounted to outside away from water but be able to close to cover them up. Slowly but surely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 I suggest a GFCI breaker. Not a GFCI outlet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 I suggest a GFCI breaker. Not a GFCI outlet. Why the breaker vs the plug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 OK, definitely getting overwhelmed with the various mini projects: running new dedicated circuit, electrical mounting solution, rock work and now need to figure out new solutions for mounting lighting and reworking my RO/DI setup. The old tank was able to use the Ocean Revive mounting stand. The new tank is 48" so it will not work. I could mount it front to back by rotating fixture 90 degrees however I believe this would limit trying to get the one figure to light the full tank rectangle. I'm hoping to get away with one light as I don't plan on having a full blown SPS tank. I'm hoping it gives me various amounts of par from middle to end for a full mix of corals. I need to look at other options to hang it, preferably something attached to stand. I want to stay away from a shelf above tank. The other item I've added to my to do list is getting a RO tank that I can setup my float valve. Today I just use by system adhoc to make 5 gallons for the top off every week or the day before a water change. I'd like to have it run more efficiently and always have water on hand. I started playing with my left over Pukani rock. Smaller pieces but building it up to make a larger arch / structure. I only got a couple pieces permanently attached - ran out of aqua stik two part. However I have dry stacked it to get effect and attached picture. I plan to have the single rock from my 30 gallon, this one and may do another smaller island off of it. I want to keep wide open sand bed with space in between structures for circulation. Lastly, I secured my fantasy football victory last night with a nice payout so made a significant order: I ordered misc items for the rock like more two part and egg crate along with (2) Tunze 6095 circulation pumps, Skimz SV203 skimmer (I'm praying it fits, already know it will need to be tilted to get it into top of sump) and RO/DI filter replacements. At this point everything should be ordered / on way for tank. Just need to finalize the electrical mounting and hanging mount for tank to be able to get it into place and start setting up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted December 26, 2016 Share Posted December 26, 2016 Nice! I pulled off a fantasy football victory last night as well but its just a casual league so payout isn't going to get me all the toys you got with yours. Look into the Aquaforest rock epoxy to glue rocks together. New lroduct, heard good things, and Aquadome carries it. I know you aren't running a full SPS tank but I still think you're better off with 2 OR fixtures. The drop off on the edges with LEDs is pretty severe, not like a MH that you can still get plenty of spread on the edges still. It'd be hard to grow anything on the edges of your rock work that are towards the sides of your tank. Good thing about this situation though is maybe build your light rack to be able to hold 2 just in case and try running one to see how it goes. If it isn't cutting it, then just buy the 2nd and insert. I run one on every 24" of my tank and there's still a barely noticeable light gap between the fixtures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 Nice! I pulled off a fantasy football victory last night as well but its just a casual league so payout isn't going to get me all the toys you got with yours. Look into the Aquaforest rock epoxy to glue rocks together. New lroduct, heard good things, and Aquadome carries it. I know you aren't running a full SPS tank but I still think you're better off with 2 OR fixtures. The drop off on the edges with LEDs is pretty severe, not like a MH that you can still get plenty of spread on the edges still. It'd be hard to grow anything on the edges of your rock work that are towards the sides of your tank. Good thing about this situation though is maybe build your light rack to be able to hold 2 just in case and try running one to see how it goes. If it isn't cutting it, then just buy the 2nd and insert. I run one on every 24" of my tank and there's still a barely noticeable light gap between the fixtures. I'm thinking about just taking advantage of the $158 sale going on and getting a second. If they were rotated 90 degrees with legs on front/back, do you think that would still give the necessary coverage for the 48"? It would be nice to stay away from hanging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted December 26, 2016 Share Posted December 26, 2016 Nice! I pulled off a fantasy football victory last night as well but its just a casual league so payout isn't going to get me all the toys you got with yours. Look into the Aquaforest rock epoxy to glue rocks together. New lroduct, heard good things, and Aquadome carries it. I know you aren't running a full SPS tank but I still think you're better off with 2 OR fixtures. The drop off on the edges with LEDs is pretty severe, not like a MH that you can still get plenty of spread on the edges still. It'd be hard to grow anything on the edges of your rock work that are towards the sides of your tank. Good thing about this situation though is maybe build your light rack to be able to hold 2 just in case and try running one to see how it goes. If it isn't cutting it, then just buy the 2nd and insert. I run one on every 24" of my tank and there's still a barely noticeable light gap between the fixtures. I'm thinking about just taking advantage of the $158 sale going on and getting a second. If they were rotated 90 degrees with legs on front/back, do you think that would still give the necessary coverage for the 48"? It would be nice to stay away from hanging. Not sure how wide your tank is but if it's less than 24" front to back, I think it should be fine. I run them left to right and prefer to supplement with T5s but that's just because I'm SPS-dominant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 Nice! I pulled off a fantasy football victory last night as well but its just a casual league so payout isn't going to get me all the toys you got with yours. Look into the Aquaforest rock epoxy to glue rocks together. New lroduct, heard good things, and Aquadome carries it. I know you aren't running a full SPS tank but I still think you're better off with 2 OR fixtures. The drop off on the edges with LEDs is pretty severe, not like a MH that you can still get plenty of spread on the edges still. It'd be hard to grow anything on the edges of your rock work that are towards the sides of your tank. Good thing about this situation though is maybe build your light rack to be able to hold 2 just in case and try running one to see how it goes. If it isn't cutting it, then just buy the 2nd and insert. I run one on every 24" of my tank and there's still a barely noticeable light gap between the fixtures. I'm thinking about just taking advantage of the $158 sale going on and getting a second. If they were rotated 90 degrees with legs on front/back, do you think that would still give the necessary coverage for the 48"? It would be nice to stay away from hanging. Not sure how wide your tank is but if it's less than 24" front to back, I think it should be fine. I run them left to right and prefer to supplement with T5s but that's just because I'm SPS-dominant. Thanks, I just looked at a few pictures online that have them mounted that way...I don't like the brackets on the front glass...so I'm scratching that idea. The tank is 48" left to right. I went ahead and ordered another fixture to take advantage of the holiday pricing. I will have to play around with some steel tubing / u channel to build a mount - I saw a few inspiration pictures online. Another project that will take additional time before getting this thing going! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted December 26, 2016 Share Posted December 26, 2016 Nice! I pulled off a fantasy football victory last night as well but its just a casual league so payout isn't going to get me all the toys you got with yours. Look into the Aquaforest rock epoxy to glue rocks together. New lroduct, heard good things, and Aquadome carries it. I know you aren't running a full SPS tank but I still think you're better off with 2 OR fixtures. The drop off on the edges with LEDs is pretty severe, not like a MH that you can still get plenty of spread on the edges still. It'd be hard to grow anything on the edges of your rock work that are towards the sides of your tank. Good thing about this situation though is maybe build your light rack to be able to hold 2 just in case and try running one to see how it goes. If it isn't cutting it, then just buy the 2nd and insert. I run one on every 24" of my tank and there's still a barely noticeable light gap between the fixtures. I'm thinking about just taking advantage of the $158 sale going on and getting a second. If they were rotated 90 degrees with legs on front/back, do you think that would still give the necessary coverage for the 48"? It would be nice to stay away from hanging.Not sure how wide your tank is but if it's less than 24" front to back, I think it should be fine. I run them left to right and prefer to supplement with T5s but that's just because I'm SPS-dominant. Thanks, I just looked at a few pictures online that have them mounted that way...I don't like the brackets on the front glass...so I'm scratching that idea. The tank is 48" left to right. I went ahead and ordered another fixture to take advantage of the holiday pricing. I will have to play around with some steel tubing / u channel to build a mount - I saw a few inspiration pictures online. Another project that will take additional time before getting this thing going!Nice! Been tossing around the idea of having a DIY session, maybe hosted at one of the LFSs, to demonstrate how to modify the OR units if desired. Gig'em and I replaced all our green, red, and 10k cool white diodes with 3.5k warm white diodes and the overall color is very pleasing even though the stock color is great as is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted December 26, 2016 Share Posted December 26, 2016 You should use a GFCI breaker instead of a GFCI outlet because your electrical plug is generally square behind your tank making replacing the GFCI outlet very difficult if not impossible. A breaker on the other had can be replaced at your breaker box very easily. I keep spare breakers on hand just in case. Also GFCI plugs do have a limited life span as compared to a convential outlet which pretty much lasts forever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted December 28, 2016 Share Posted December 28, 2016 I love my Reef Octopus Skimmer. It is a Regal line which is DC powered! Quiet and works great! I have Vortechs and Tunze pumps. They run great, the Tunze pushes a ton of water and is very quiet. I use the D.C. Tunze. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 Late Christmas today! Basically everything that was ordered on three different orders delivered the same day. Another Ocean Revive light, skimmer, two Tunze, extra DI canister, filter replacements, sand and other misc items all delivered today. I now have all equipment...need to work on (1). Running dedicated breaker / circuit for aquarium and (2). Finish rock structure. It is coming along! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender.TX Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Oh man oh man oh man I like this tank, can't wait to see it wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltwater snoopy Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Nice chose its going to be Really nice not sure if its up an running but seen your post pick an the cover pick niccce light can wait to see it done Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted December 31, 2016 Author Share Posted December 31, 2016 I finished up the second rock structure last night. I'm happy with the outcome but not the biggest fan of the epoxy color but hopefully that quickly gets covered with coralline. I also made a run to Home Depot this morning to get supplies to install my dedicated circuit. I had to return the breaker and order the correct one; didn't have it in store. More to come. I will try to capture series of pictures for the steps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender.TX Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 You decided to go with the GFCI breaker as opposed to the outlet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted January 1, 2017 Author Share Posted January 1, 2017 You decided to go with the GFCI breaker as opposed to the outlet? Yes. I decided to go with breaker for two reasons: (1). From the research I did, it seems breaker is more reliable than plug (seemed more subjective) and (2). A breaker is much easier to replace / test once the tank is setup and in front of the wall / outlets. I picked up correct breaker today and will finish up the dedicated circuit. My breaker box is Cutler Hammer and apparently they have two mount types: BR and CH. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonb87 Posted January 1, 2017 Share Posted January 1, 2017 You decided to go with the GFCI breaker as opposed to the outlet?Yes. I decided to go with breaker for two reasons: (1). From the research I did, it seems breaker is more reliable than plug (seemed more subjective) and (2). A breaker is much easier to replace / test once the tank is setup and in front of the wall / outlets. I picked up correct breaker today and will finish up the dedicated circuit. My breaker box is Cutler Hammer and apparently they have two mount types: BR and CH. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I am a electrician and prefer breakers pver GFCI receps. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 The dedicated circuit for the tank was finished today. I added two separate boxes with single outlet spaced ~10 inches apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 After cutting out the holes to accept the remodel outlet boxes, went upstairs to attic. I already had one outlet on the wall and was able to use that existing wiring as reference. Measured across on stud top plate and drilled hole for the new wiring. It was snaked through hole down wall and pulled through opening. Another smaller section to wire in second outlet in series. So far, everything as expected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 The next portion was a bit more interesting. The stud top plate feeding the breaker box was even easier to find...basically all the home wiring converged on this spot. Between the top plate and box was ~2.5 ft of outside wall. Same as with previous wall, drilled hole in middle of top plate to feed romex down to the breaker box. Also needed to open up a hole at the top of the breaker box by removing one of the preformed hole tabs. Prior to working inside the breaker box, I cut the main breaker feeding the garage sub panel. I double checked voltage before and after to make sure it wasn't live before working. My first attempt at trying to snake the wire alone down the wall wasn't successful...given it was outside wall with insulation, it continued to get stuck. Luckily I had a fish tape, it allowed me to position to get outside the insulation and follow the wall board down to the breaker box. I got lucky and it only took a couple tries to hit the hole into the breaker box. Then threaded grommet to protect wire feed through hole. At this point, I was was happy as it was smoother than expected. I now turned my attention to wiring the GFCI breaker and this is when I realized the breaker didn't has the same outline as the others and thus wouldn't fit. After some research, Cutler Hammer has two mounting types: BR and CH. I was able to find another Home Depot that carried the CH. Ground wire of new circuit to ground panel bus. Neutral (white wire) of new circuit to Load Neutral on Breaker. Hot (black wire) of new circuit to Load Power on Breaker. Finally, the Panel Neutral pigtail lead on the Breaker to the Panel Neutral bus. Then pop breaker into place. I used 12 gauge wire and 20A breaker - matching what the rest of house used for regular electric circuits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender.TX Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Looks good! Props for taking on the electrical work yourself - it's one of the things I really don't like to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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