LarryD Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Looks good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 So here is a topic I've started to think about. Is it sand first then rock or rock first then sand? A lot of interesting discussion online with dead set views of both sides. In my view, I worry a bit with putting a large rock like this directly on the glass. It isn't like a piece of tile that is flat with weight distributed evenly across the surface area but irregular rock that could have some points only touching carrying a lot of weight. That is why I prefer sand first and then have the rock pushed into the surface where it is floating above the glass (not directly touching it) and the sand acts as an overall support distributing and hold the rock steady. Any other thoughts? Still a couple weeks away given the curing but it has crossed my mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryD Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 So the rock first then sand is used to help stabilize the rock structure and to help prevent burrowing creatures from destabilizing the scape. However with your particular scape you can be fairly certain that it wont fall apart, however I am still in the boat of rock first then sand so as to prevent the possibility of a shrimp, goby, or whatever burrowing critter you get getting squished when it digs the sand out from under the rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 Short Update The Tunze Reefpack and carbon has arrived. I basically have everything I need at this point to get it setup. The only other remaining item is ATO but I will look into that after it is up and cycling. The next step is unfortunately patience...the rock has been curing for about a week. I did throw the piece into the display just to get a feel for what it would look like. I like the fact I get good height but not completely sold as a bit plain. I have a couple more weeks before I can get it shifted into the display tank for cycling. It should improve with corals and it allows plenty of space to attach corals vertically and horizontally. I did come across a neat, smaller version of the normal 34+ gallon Brute containers. It is a 20 gallon container. I will shift my rock from the current bin that is busting at the seams into it. I plan to use the Brute moving forward for RO/DI water creation and water change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share Posted October 9, 2015 Update for October. The rock finished curing last weekend and started to fill up the tank with water. It took a couple days to get it completely filled as it was a busy weekend and earlier this week. It is now starting the cycle and with basically brand new rock and sand I suspect this will take the entire month. I will post pictures later today. My thoughts: 1) Wash the sand better prior to adding to the tank. I was unable to see the rock for a couple days but it has generally cleared. 2) I hooked up the Tunze 6040. Overall, I'm happy with it. The only concern I have is a slight rattle (not hum of motor) but after talking to Tunze - Roger he suspects that will dissipate after a couple weeks. We will see. Even with it slightly tilted up, it is pushing sand out from the corner running on ~85% / 30% at the longest pulse. I'm hoping after the sand is filled with bacteria it will settle down the movement. 3) I haven't hooked up the Tunze Reefpack 250 - I'm still a bit weary to see how much space they take up but I don't plan to add until I start to stock the tank. 4) Wear gloves when messing with the rock - Pukani has some sharp edges. I used a hack saw to create level base on the bottom of the rock prior to putting into the tank. Took a good gash on a finger after catching a sharp edge. I also took some time to move RO/DI filter. I originally had it under the sink in a guest bathroom but was getting tired of having to get on the ground to use it. I ended up getting a T and ball valve fitting to splice into the cold water input at the top of water heater. I then mounted the unit in garage. This is so much easier on the back! It is moving along slowly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share Posted October 9, 2015 Here is a current picture of the tank. I do have some pieces of Pukani left over that would be good for a smaller tank. Let me know if you're interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 Two weeks into cycle. No major issues to date. I spent a couple hours this weekend pulling together the Tunze Reefpack 250. I installed the 3162 filter and have it running only some floss to help with removing the fine silt blown around by the Tunze 6040. I also installed the 9004 skimmer but not running it yet. I will turn it on once we get some fish in the tank. I finally went ahead and ordered the Tunze Nano Osmolator. I was on the fence between the full blown version and the nano. I settled on the nano as it was half the price and with the regular version I would still need a magnet to hold the secondary float. So far no issues however the pump is extremely loud when it turns on. I'm hoping it quiets down. At this point, everything is in place...I should put a Tunze logo on it! Oceanic 30 Gallon Cube Tunze 6040 Tunze 9004 Skimmer Tunze 3162 Internal Filter (my intention for this was to use as extra flow, house carbon bag as required and it had a slot for heater that I intended to use however heater is too long!) Tunze Nano Osmolator AquaticLife 2x18 T5HO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Just to give some additional light, in case someone else encounters it, the Tunze Nano Osmolator is nice that it includes magnet holder for the float valve but a bit of a pain for tanks that have rims (if you're not using it in a sump). Even though the magnet is correctly in proportion with the float valve, it still creates a problem for mounting given the rim. The entire magnet must be below the rim on both sides to enable the fit and holding strength. As a result, it will shift the water line almost ~1 inch below the rim. Some like to keep the water line above the rim. I didn't mind having it visible however I didn't want it 1 inch below it. As a result, I needed to remove a portion of the rim (didn't want to remove it entirely for integrity) on the dry side to allow the magnet to mount as high as possible. I started off using a razor blade mounted knives. After about 10-15 passes I wasn't making significant progress and slipped a couple times scratching my black painted background. After a couple searches on the ole web I came across one person that used a soldering iron. Basically used the heat to melt/cut out the portion required. I did the same and it worked great while also leaving the edge smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 November 2, 2015 Update Some updates over the last two weeks. On Oct. 24, went by Aquadome to start our search for fish given we had finished curing and recently the cycling of the tank. We have been very patient up to this point! Both my kids were very excited and we ended up settling on a beautiful pair of Onyx clowns. It is definitely the most expensive fish I've purchased in my career, but they settled in quickly and look to be very healthy and eating Mysis from day one. We also picked up two blue leg hermits to help with some clean-up. This past weekend (yesterday), made the trip up to Round Rock to pick up some zoo frags from a local reefer. Everything for the most part has settled in and opened up. Besides some additional clean-up crew when needed, I feel for the most part we have it stocked. It just needs time to feel in now. I may think about some type of monti cap to add on the size of the rock to add a different depth - for the most part I wanted to stay with my current lights so has to be something with lower lighting requirements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+KimP Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Very nice! I love the way that rock looks in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasReef Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Yes, I second the rock, very impressive sculptung.[emoji106] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jynxgirl Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 Digging this one large piece of rock. Nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 Monthly Update - End of November 2015 A couple updates: (1) Added two red leg hermits, 6 nassarrius snails and a cleaner ship in mid November - all are well (2) The zoos are doing great, no losses and already see some new polyps on a few of them. (3) Haven't started running the Tunze 9004 skimmer - have a skimmer cup overfilling issue that I'm working with local rep on. Performing water changes every other week - about ~10 gallons (1/3) each time. (4) I bought a 10lb bag of thicker sand - the fine up to ~1mm sand is getting blown around by the Tunze 6040 (not even running 100%). I've been adding a cup full every couple days. I'm hoping this helps to limit the sand getting blown around. So far so good...time will tell. (not sure why the one picture is getting rotated. It is vertical prior to upload...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+BobcatReefer Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Great job w/ that rock! Look forward to following your build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted November 29, 2015 Author Share Posted November 29, 2015 Thanks. I definitely like the concept of single structure versus many stacked rocks. If I had to do it over again, I would have the bottom of the structure diameter smaller, similar to an upside down mountain. Let's see how it looks after a year or so after the zoos have a chance to spread over the entire structure. Great job w/ that rock! Look forward to following your build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 You have to love the Holidays! The Ocean Revive unit (T-247B) was on sale for Christmas so couldn't pass up the deal to upgrade. It should be delivered next week and very excited but a bit nervous on the capabilities and unsure where to start from an intensity perspective for each channel. I know it is overkill as the tank is focused on zoos only but I like the capability to adjust intensity for each channel so I can dial it down for my application and independently run for dawn dusk. I don't have the dawn/dusk today so I never get an actinic only view of zoos. I can't wait to see them pop now. Overall not much done to tank over the last month - I was able to get the Tunze 9004 skimmer up and running. Still not entirely sure what was triggering the skimmer cup overflow. I tend to think it is due to the fine dust from the smaller grain sand that gets mixed up during water changes -- however since I've been running carbon no overflow issues also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 I received the Ocean Revive T247-B today. It was very well packed. It was relatively easy to put together and get the timer and intensity set. The previous 2x18watt T5HO light didn't have dawn / dusk capability, I was always running the two bulbs together for a ~14k spectrum. It was amazing at the pop from the zoos with blue only on the LED - WOW! I'm thrilled to be able to run a dawn / dusk effect. I have no idea where to start on intensity or the limit given this is a zoo only tank. I'm starting with 30% Blue and 20% White. The shimmer is definitely noticeably as the T5's didn't generate any; initially a bit hard on the eyes but will see what tomorrow holds. I tried to take a picture with blues only but for some reason unable to get the picture clarity - not sure what I'm doing wrong. I will try again tomorrow with both channels on. 7 hours total run time for blue 5 hours total run time for white 1 hour at the start and end of blue only Anyone have any thoughts on experience with this unit for intensity levels for zoo only aquarium? Is 30% blue / 20% white seem like a good start? What about the max limit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJohnson Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 What do you have channel 1 and channel 2 set at? Sent from my XT1045 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 What do you have channel 1 and channel 2 set at? Sent from my XT1045 using Tapatalk I'm running it currently at 30% blue and 20% white. I can definitely see a positive reaction from zoos. The downside is it has generated a diatom bloom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 It has been a few weeks since adding the LED. It definitely boosted output from the small T5s. It was instantly seen from the zoos and as a result created a diatom bloom. It has receded and already see some coralline growth on the rocks. I'm still running at 30% blue and 20% white. I may bump up both channels by 5% end of month. I doubt any need to go beyond that for only zoos. I'm thinking about adding some type of coral that will grow out from the side of rock to add some depth. Any ideas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 I think some type of euphyllia (torch, frogspawn, hammer, anchor) coral should look nice down there. It'll give you some depth and also something flowing in the current. They are also pretty hardy and tolerant of a lot of conditions and lighting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 Thanks for the advice. My original thought was some type of cap or monti to create a ledge effect but I'm also a fan of torch / frogspawn. The original intent was a zoo only tank but have been thinking about some diversity. I had looked at frogspawn / torch as I was looking for something the clowns could host in given 30 gallons is a bit small for an anemone. I was afraid of the stinging capability of LPS against the zoos given the size of tank. Decisions, decisions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 My other thought was a cap for you but I didn't know if you've had success with any type of monti before. The ledge would look nice but they suck up alk and Ca so your water changes would have to keep up. Either that or you'll have to start dosing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 For the clowns, mine have hosted duncans and torch corals before, but only temporarily when I removed my anemone for treatment. Long-term I heard its possible for them to host but me personally, I've seen how they beat up that anemone. Not sure how LPS would take that kind of abuse long-term but it worked fine for me for a couple of weeks with no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosslonghorns Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 I was afraid of that for both items. I don't want to stress the LPS. Also my intention was to drive simplistic approach. I've been religious with 30% water changes every two weeks. For the time being will just stick with zoos. Thanks for feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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