Wade Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 I'm running a Reef Breeders Photon 48 over my tank and my coral are growing like weeds. I've got a mixed reef of SPS, LPS, and softies. The fixture is hung about 6 inches above the water which is as high as I can get it because the tank is built in. The intensity peaks at 70% blue and 55% white. The problem is that the color on some of the coral has faded out. I still have polyp extension and the coral is growing, just not coloring up well. I've had the light for a couple of years and the coral has been growing under it for about the same. I got a new tri-color acro a couple of months ago. It was a rich dark green on the bottom that transitioned to brown in the middle and then blue tips. The bottom has faded out to a light brown that transitions to a pale white with now barely perceptible blue tips. it still has some polyp extension, but not like before. I've got two bird's nests right next to it that are flourishing. I've also got a green monti cap that when I bought it a couple of years ago was a light green with a purple growth edge and blue polyps. It's many times bigger than it was and continues to grow, but now it's a pale green with a barely perceptible purple growth edge and the polyps are a pale color like the cap. Should I look at added a T5 to it as supplemental lighting or do I need to adjust the intensity of the LEDs up or down on one or both channels? Suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 I found this light on Amazon. I'll need to get a better bulb, but the fixture seems good and will fit in my enclosure next the the LED fixture. Thoughts? http://www.amazon.com/Sunblaster-904296-NanoTech-Fixture-Reflector/dp/B00AKKUBDQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t/181-2279804-0547748 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neon Reefer Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 I started w/ LEDs a few years back and never got really good color even w/ a full spectrum until I added UV and eventually T5s to supplement the LEDs. Then I got really phenomenal color. Recently I upgraded and went with Photon 48s.in a 31" deep 150g build and I still run my Photon's white channel a little lower than you at this point. Blues Max out @ 75% but white channel @ only 45%. However mine are 12" above the water line and I run 90* optics. I imagine you run 120* optics on your tank. If not then you should as 90s @ 6" is too focused. I am surprised you run that much white on a 72" and may be why you have some bleaching going on. I would cut back on the white by 10% and drop it to 50% then 10 days later to 45% and try that for a while and see. I would also add 24- 36" X2 T5s and supplement True Blues. No whites as you can dial that up anytime and no purple plus or red as Photons have plenty of both. Also really need to get some UV in there for coloring up. I run 6 watts of high intensity LED -UV. Good Luck Andre' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Thanks Neon. I'l start dialing back my whites tomorrow. I'll also look into getting 120 degree lenses. I believe you're correct and that my fixture in running 90 degree. I only have room in my enclosure for a single bulb strip fixture (well anything that will fit in a 3" x 24" space) . What bulb would you recommend if I can only go with one? Also, will the fixture I linked above do the job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckyuv Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 I dont think I ever got my kessils dialed in correctly and never had great colors on everything and ended up with t5. I think the coral+ might be a good bulb if you can only run one, i guess it depends on what color range you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 @Neon: would an ATI Blue Plus be what you're recommending? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 I went ahead and adjusted my ramp program from max 70% Blue - max 55% white to max 75% Blue - max 50% white. I'll wait about 10 days and then tamp it up to max 80% blue - max 45% white. I'll see how things go and how the coral responds. If everything is looking better, I may then go max 85% blue - max 40% white. I'm also looking into whether my fixture came with 120 degree lenses or 90 degree. Need to find the receipt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Ok. I found some correspondence from Reef Breeders from a few months back where I had inquired about changing the optics from 90 degree to 120 degree, The response was that I just need to remove the optics currently in place and the spread without any lens on there would be 120 degree. I may give that a shot today. I'm not sure what that entails, but Logan from Reef Breeders indicated that it was a simple operation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Not too sure about this. Removing the optic just leaves a bare LED lens. Seems like you would want something on there, but maybe not. Does a bare lens provide 120 degree spread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Looks like no optics at all do give a 120 degree spread. So next question is, does removing the optic covers result in increased intensity? If so, then I need to go back to my previous settings so I'm not increasing the intensity too much at once. Found this in the Reef Breeders FAQ: Q: How do you change out the optics, and what is the difference between 60s, 90s, and 120s? A: You can simply unscrew the case of the fixture with a phillips tip screw driver, and then flip the top of the case forward (the controller side on the photon units, the side opposite the dimming knobs on the value series). You can then unscrew the board, and flip the board forward as well, which will allow you access to the optics, and LEDs. You can simply pull the old optics off, and put new optics of choice on in their place, they snap right in. Put the board back, and tighten the screws until they are snug. The 60 degree optics will have a lot of depth penetration, but not a lot of spread, and are ideal for 30″- 40″ deep tanks. The 90s have a decent amount of depth penetration, but more spread than the 60s. We recommend them on tanks from 18″ deep, to 30″ deep. The 120s (or no optics on the value fixtures) have a lot of spread, but not too much depth penetration. They will work on tanks up to 24″ deep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Wider spread = less intensity Narrower spread = more intensity Going from 90 to 120 degrees will give you less intensity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neon Reefer Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 So to try and answer a few of your questions. 1) Removing the lenses will give you 120* optics which in essence spreads pout the light and gives you less intensity. I would do this for your size tank. 2) To do it really easy. Just remove casing screws and lift out panel and pull optic covers. Herre is a little video on how to do it. www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPd5Izi43aw 3) Increasing one color while decreasing another color does not really change the overall intensity. 4) I would remove the 90 * optics and simply reduce the white by 5% then wait and adjust by another 5% and then give the tank a few weeks to see how things are going. I believe IMHO the most important thing is to remove the 90* optics. 5) I like the blue+ brightness and ability to bring out florescent properties and adds no purple (RB have lots of purple) and lower costs. Where the Coral Plus combines the properties of a Blue Plus (~50%) + Aquablue Special (~40%) + Purple Plus (~10%) producing a bulb with an approximate color temperature of 15000K+. Appears cool, crisp white to the eye. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neon Reefer Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 In addition here is a great link from Orphek concerning UV light and LEDs. https://orphek.com/is-uv-light-a-gimmick-in-led-fixtures-or-do-corals-benefit-by-it/ In short it explains why and how UVA (280-315nm) will color up your corals Consider a T5 black light blue bulb for UVA about 12" ~ 8 watt available on Amazon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Thanks Neon. I removed the optics last night as well as increasing the blue to 75% and decreasing the white to 50%. I'll wait a few days and then increase the blue to 80% and decrease the white to 45%. I also plan to add the T5 fixture I linked above (24") with the Coral + bulb. I just don't see a downside to it except the initial expense of the fixture/bulb and then the bulb replacement every few months. Speaking of that, how often do the bulbs typically last? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 The only problem I see is that I currently ramp my lights up/down to match the normal daylight progression. Not sure how to mix the T5 into that unless I have them on a timer and only turn them on during the middle 6 or 8 hours of the day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neon Reefer Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 They start to fade immediately when used. But most people change them from 9 -18 months depending on how long they run per day. I run mine 8 hours per day and change every 12 months. I turn mine on 30 minutes before my full intensity, but I ramp up and down pretty quick cause really the coral don't mind. On my RB I start w 1 hour of moon lights to warm things warmed up a bit and then 40% B / 25% W intensity for 1 hour and then max out at 75% Blue / 45% white for 8 hours and ramp down the same way. I also have 2 PAR 38s with RB- RG and UV running at 27 watts each as well as 2 T5s running at 54 watts each coming on 1/2 hour before my full intensity. I like the full spectrumI get with the addition of 2 more colors and the UV with the additional LEDs and the bright blue of the Wave Point Blue Wave Super Blue Actinic 460 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade Posted July 21, 2015 Author Share Posted July 21, 2015 Thanks Neon. I ordered the T5 fixture and lamp yesterday so hopefully they'll arrive tomorrow and I can get it installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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