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UV sterilizer experiment


FarmerTy

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just a quick update, I honestly have not noticed too much of a difference in running the sterilizer than without it... other than I have to wipe my glass one or two days later than I normally would.

When I added the emperor angelfish, it came into the system perfectly healthy and not a spot of ich on it. About 3-5 days in my system and you could see some white spots on its fins and tail but nowhere on the body. My midas blenny got a few spots on the right side of its body as well. Then 5-7 days later, nothing on any fish. Is this because of the UV sterilizer? I believe so... I think it helped it from spreading. Do I think the sterilizer eradicated ich from my system? No. It did what I hoped it would do, minimize an epidemic in my tank.

Perhaps if I plumbed it the way it was recommended, with the intake at the bottom of the tank and the return at the top, perhaps it could eradicate it but I don't really want more plumbing lines in my tank. Supression works for me!

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  • 6 months later...

So, I wanted to bring this discussion back to light as I am contemplating some things during my more extensive research into ich sterilization with UV.

It started when I ran across an article on the Emperor Aquatics brand of UV sterilizers, basically the main competing company of UV sterilizers to the product I own, the AquaUV sterilizer. Both are highly regarded for their performance and customer support and are considered the better UV sterilizers in the industry. What struck me as odd is the higher recommended exposures recommended for killing marine protists by Emperor Aquatics. Here's what the two companies suggested for exposure levels to kill marine protists:

MODEL Exposure GPH

57-watt AquaUV 90,000 uW/cm2 1066

50-watt Emperor Aquatics 180,000 uW/cm2 ~300

That's 2x the recommended level of AquaUV! So that made me do some more research and found that the marine ich kill exposure of 336,000 uW/cm2 is mainly an extrapolated number from freshwater ich kill exposure of 100,000 uW/cm2. Awesome! Soft science! doh.gif Well, that's the best I have so I'll run with it, which basically means I need to only run ~300 gph through the UV sterilizer, instead of the 1066 gph recommended by the manufacturer.

Great reference on ich:

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa164

Chart I found for reference... no idea of the source though:

feb6f90886efa349746bffa92ae9d222.jpg

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Oh, I should add that I will also be trying to plumb the UV sterilizer directly to my DT and not in my sump. It is currently in my sump, sterilizing all water that returns to my DT. I think it'll be more effective sucking up the free swimming stage of ich if the intake was actually in the DT, slightly above the sandbed level, and the return in another portion of the tank. I've been reading that it is helpful to have it plumbed this way and I believe even our very own Timfish mentioned this to be an ideal setup for UV sterilizers. I haven't figured out how to do this without it being too intrusive yet with PVC/tubing but hopefully something will come to light for me. Wish me luck... and with another project that'll keep me busy with the tank to stave off complacency/boredom with the tank. whistle.gif

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That's a good idea, since it seems that the free-swimming stage doesn't swim up toward your overflows, but settles on substrates near the bottom. If you only had ich in the sump, then no problem! But if ich EVER got into your display, then you would be hard pressed to ever eliminate it from skimming the water from the surface via overflow.

You could always completely drain the tank and remove all the inhabitants and drill two holes on the back panel near the bottom on opposites of the tank and plumb them together. Plumb an inline pump and the UV sterilizer into the piping connecting the two holes so water simply flows between the two holes. That way if power ever goes out you wouldn't have to worry about shut off valves or back siphoning. You could even install a T with a ball valve and use that as your water change port. That would help remove detritus that settles near the bottom of your tank without ever having to put your hand in the water!

You wanted a project to keep you from complacency, right?

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First off, you lost me when you mentioned water change. Haha. 2nd, if I'm catching all the fish out, I might as well put them all in a tub and leave the tank fallow for 72 days and be done with ich. 3rd, no way I'm putting holes in 3/4" glass, if things go wrong, I don't have a tank anymore and all my coral friends and fish friends will have to move in with you. Wait... was that the end game for you?

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Dang it, you caught me in my long con! Why am I pulling my hair out trying to fix all my problems to grow colonies when I can just inherit them from you?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is the longest con ever and I give you much kudos sacrificing all those years of my miserable company to one day get my collection! [emoji106]
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