dshel1217 Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 I'll elaborate further. Test your water once a week for a month. Don't rinse your supplies. Just dump everything out in the sink and put them away. Record your results. Then on the 5th week test again after giving everything a thorough cleaning and drying and compare. I don't mean to come off as abrasive. I've just personally witnessed how much not cleaning your testing equipment can throw off a regular testing and dosing regiment I have always washed out my jars with RODI water but i havent thought of storing water in them. Thanks for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 I'll elaborate further. Test your water once a week for a month. Don't rinse your supplies. Just dump everything out in the sink and put them away. Record your results. Then on the 5th week test again after giving everything a thorough cleaning and drying and compare. I don't mean to come off as abrasive. I've just personally witnessed how much not cleaning your testing equipment can throw off a regular testing and dosing regiment Ok, I'm not a non believer exactly, I was just questioning the amount. But I never considered not rinsing as an option. Nor continued build up increasing the error. I was imagining that with a good tap water rinse and an air dry you may have 10 ppm error on calcium. I'm not really a good candidate to test that, though, because between trying to figure out when my pink matches their pink and reading the microscopic numbers on the syringe I figure I get +/- 20 on my best days Oh I didn't feel abraded. I asked, you answered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Lol all good. I think I just stick with my habit but with my tap water it's a necessity. We have 25 dKH alk in our tap and if I let a rinsed glass air dry it looks like it was splattered with white paint no lie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planeden Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Lol all good. I think I just stick with my habit but with my tap water it's a necessity. We have 25 dKH alk in our tap and if I let a rinsed glass air dry it looks like it was splattered with white paint no lie. Holy cow. That's nuts. Maybe you should dose your tank with tap water and save on kalkwater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted July 13, 2014 Share Posted July 13, 2014 Well...if it were pure enough. It's also the 0.4 ppm phosphate as well as the copper an fluoride content I wouldn't want to add. Our water also has close to zero calcium in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manny Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Ive become more weary of phosphate numbers (readings) since i switched from the hanna phosphate to the hanna phosphorus. I think you have to be really careful about bottle cleaning and sampling procedures to get good data. I think i was getting false highs for a long time and have had lower phosphate than i would like to be keeping. For instance, I have ZERO ppp of phosphorus, and thats after heavy feedings. If i use an old cuvette that didnt have an acid wash, i get like 6 ppb. Lab procedures matter apparently. My God I'm so glad to see someone else say that. I harp so much on lab procedures with local newbies when testing and everyone rolls their eyes. I get so frustrated. The amount of error you'll get by simply not cleaning and preparing vials and syringes properly is multiple times out of our tests standard error range. You can get 100+ ppm off on calcium and magnesium and 1-2 dKH off on alk if you're not careful. People. With your test vials...rinse and scrub them with each use and them rinse with RODI water, and if they have lids...STORE them full of RODI water, as RODI water is highly reactive and will prevent any residual reagents from sticking to the glass, and DRY or rinse in tank water before using. Rinse all syringes with RODI water thoroughally and be sure to evacuate any fluid from the Red Sea pro and salifert syringe tips before use. Forget that and you'll be diluting your titrant by 10-20%. Lab procedures matter!!! I never thought of this at first but thanks to this great advice, I have had several weeks of consistent readings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Alk swing Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Quit trying to kill my coral Sascha! Sent via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Your coral? Not everything is about you Ty! I got it from Niko's. Now where he got it from ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Haha, had an alk swing of my own when a bubble got trapped on my pH probe. How's the knop reactor working out? Sent via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Not as well as I would like. It doesn't draw water into the reactor very efficiently and has run dry on me a few times. I have to keep the effluent pretty high and adjust the gas to dial in the pH output. No controller. I may have to buy an aqualifter to keep the reactor full so I can dial down the effluent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 I'd use a small maxi-jet or something like that... maybe "T" the return line. Actually, I thought you had an extra spout on your manifold from your return line that you were going to use? I used the aqualifter previously with my CaRX and both times, they both didn't last more than 8-10 months and clogged really easily. I "T" mine off the manifold of my return pump now with success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Repeat after me: peristaltic pump. peristaltic pump. peristaltic pump. masterflex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 I can't afford the peristaltics rated for the size of my CaRX upgrade. Give me the hook up brah! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 What's your flow rate ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Don't know until I get my fancy upgrade CaRX. I'll update you stat once I find a good upgrade. Sent via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 I have the input plugged into my manifold. There is something particular about the model of reactor that I have. It doesn't draw as much water as it should, even with the spout fully open. When it runs dry, I open the effluent control valve (that has stopped dripping) and it begins to draw water again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Odd, it should be able to push out the same amount of water being pushed in from your manifold unless there is a blockage. Sent via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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