Wood stand

[(Bio)³]

I'm planning on building a simple wood stand for my 6 gallon nano build. After seeing how well other members have built stands for their builds I'd like to see what people thought I should use materials wise.

I was planning on an 8x4 sheet of cabinet grade plywood with the front and side panels put on with magnets.

As far as th support structure goes, what size/type of wood would be best? Could I do 2x2 lumber? or should I go with 2x4's? I'm wanting to have the least amount of stand possible when the sides and front are removed to allow ample work space.

There will also be a 10 gallon sump on a shelf inside the stand, with a 5 gallon jug for ATO underneath that.

Looking for any input for a stand design and material use. My goal is to have it sound proof enough to leave it in my bedroom without hearing the skimmer and such inside the sump, I'll have the skimmer pull air from outside the back into a muffler to offset the co2 build up of a closed stand.

TIA!

[jestep]

Use plywood only and a decent joint on the corners. 3/4" ply can easily support a 100 gallon tank without any 2x4's or other structure. My FW stand is only made from 3/4 ply. THe company that made it, RJ aquatics, said they have no problem with more than 150 gallons on the same stand. You could probably easily use 1/2" and support 5 of those size tanks on 1/2" ply alone.

[Planeden]

i'd imagine 2X2 will be fine.

[Planeden]

Use plywood only and a decent joint on the corners. 3/4" ply can easily support a 100 gallon tank without any 2x4's or other structure. My FW stand is only made from 3/4 ply. THe company that made it, RJ aquatics, said they have no problem with more than 150 gallons on the same stand. You could probably easily use 1/2" and support 5 of those size tanks on 1/2" ply alone.

you mean basically just build a plywood box and then cut holes for the doors leaving an inch or so of wood in the corners?

[(Bio)³]

Use plywood only and a decent joint on the corners. .

If I did that wouldn't the walls then be the support? I want to remove them for maintenance if needed.

And excuse the idiocy here I'm forgetting wood types and classes I've had. but are you talking plywood as in the glued together osb or like cabinet grade ply with a solid finish?

[jestep]

More or less. The did some really good quality joinery on the corners, but there's no framing inside the stand at all.

[jestep]

Use plywood only and a decent joint on the corners. .

If I did that wouldn't the walls then be the support? I want to remove them for maintenance if needed.

And excuse the idiocy here I'm forgetting wood types and classes I've had. but are you talking plywood as in the glued together osb or like cabinet grade ply with a solid finish?

Gotcha. I would do 2x2's then. My walls definitely aren't removable.

Mine is just cabinet grade oak 3/4" ply.

[Planeden]

building the box and then cutting the doors leaves you support in the corners. so, you would stll have your access. you basically just leave what amounts to a 2"x2" lumber frame.

for me, and my construction skills, i wouldn't trust i could make that joint good enough. but my construction skills are poor. that's why i have decided not to get a kitplane .

[(Bio)³]

Use plywood only and a decent joint on the corners. .

If I did that wouldn't the walls then be the support? I want to remove them for maintenance if needed.

And excuse the idiocy here I'm forgetting wood types and classes I've had. but are you talking plywood as in the glued together osb or like cabinet grade ply with a solid finish?

Gotcha. I would do 2x2's then. My walls definitely aren't removable.

Mine is just cabinet grade oak 3/4" ply.

Awesome thanks for the input! I wasnt sure how much weight (4) 2x2 would hold but it appears you two are confident it can hold a 6 gallon tank (~42 LB) plus a 10 gal sump (~80 LB)on a shelf below. The ATO will be floor level so it wouldnt be putting any weight on any part of the stand.

[(Bio)³]

building the box and then cutting the doors leaves you support in the corners. so, you would stll have your access. you basically just leave what amounts to a 2"x2" lumber frame.

for me, and my construction skills, i wouldn't trust i could make that joint good enough. but my construction skills are poor. that's why i have decided not to get a kitplane .

You and I both know kit planes are (read: should be) idiot proof! Plus I don't build wood planes, I stick to bolt on factory sent parts with minimal skinning lol

Now I want my mcr-01 thanks....

[jestep]

Max load on a single 2x2 is something near 320 lbs so you should be fine with 4. You may want to make cross braces just to prevent warping.

[(Bio)³]

Max load on a single 2x2 is something near 320 lbs so you should be fine with 4. You may want to make cross braces just to prevent warping.

Very good point, I'll make sure those are incorporated, Thank you.

[Planeden]

Max load on a single 2x2 is something near 320 lbs so you should be fine with 4. You may want to make cross braces just to prevent warping.

Very good point, I'll make sure those are incorporated, Thank you.

your sump shelf can help prevent warping. unless it warps...

speaking of, how are you planning on doing your sump shelf? one way would be to add another perimeter of 2X2s and then cut plywood to fit. may be overkill, but it would serve as both cross bracing and shelf support.

[Planeden]

You and I both know kit planes are (read: should be) idiot proof! Plus I don't build wood planes, I stick to bolt on factory sent parts with minimal skinning lol

Now I want my mcr-01 thanks....

sadly, i don't think they are my level of idiot proof. anything that involves cutting to precision (say within 1/2") isn't good for me. but this http://www.txsport.aero/default.asp is something. not quite as sleek and fancy as yours, but take a 2 week vacation and build the frame. take another week vacation after its painted and you have piper cub. and, it's up near dallas, so it shouldn't be more than a 5 hour flight home .

[jestep]

Can you get a pilot's license in 3 weeks as well?

[(Bio)³]

Can you get a pilot's license in 3 weeks as well?

My dad read the book the night before his friend took his test. Got the instructor to give him the test and he passed. This was in the 60s though.

You can get them as fast as you want then its just logging flight time

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4

[(Bio)³]

Max load on a single 2x2 is something near 320 lbs so you should be fine with 4. You may want to make cross braces just to prevent warping.

 

 

Very good point, I'll make sure those are incorporated, Thank you.

 

your sump shelf can help prevent warping.  unless it warps...

 

speaking of, how are you planning on doing your sump shelf?  one way would be to add another perimeter of 2X2s and then cut plywood to fit.  may be overkill, but it would serve as both cross bracing and shelf support. 

I was thinking the same thing

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4

[Planeden]

Can you get a pilot's license in 3 weeks as well?

minimum to get the licsense is 40 hours (or was) of flying time. so, as quickly as you can accumulate those hours and pass the test. there is also the written test that you have to pass, too.

[Planeden]

my brain quit on your shelf when i came up to " ok, so you have a 2x2 bolted on one corner but to bolt the other one on...wait, the first bolt is in the way". that's the trouble with 2x2...not much room to work with. you can probably use two smaller screws in each end and have the cross but not touch.

[+SChrisEV]

I realized this is not what your asking, so I'm sorry ahead of time.... Having build three stand in my life, the last one the most elaborate, trying for more of a furniture quality finish, I would go a different route. Steal tube frame, thin 3/8 ply with whatever finished grade you want, use the mags to connect to the stand. HOWEVER, for that small of a tank, the 2x2 would work fine, but get dense wood, not something like white wood. Sure the cheaper pine would work, but one safe is good, two the lighter woods tend to be more damp and as time goes they will dry and bow, the 2x2 are more separable to this that the 2x4s. IF you can get kiln dried then that fixed the issue, cost a bit more tho.

[(Bio)³]

I realized this is not what your asking, so I'm sorry ahead of time.... Having build three stand in my life, the last one the most elaborate, trying for more of a furniture quality finish, I would go a different route. Steal tube frame, thin 3/8 ply with whatever finished grade you want, use the mags to connect to the stand. HOWEVER, for that small of a tank, the 2x2 would work fine, but get dense wood, not something like white wood. Sure the cheaper pine would work, but one safe is good, two the lighter woods tend to be more damp and as time goes they will dry and bow, the 2x2 are more separable to this that the 2x4s. IF you can get kiln dried then that fixed the issue, cost a bit more tho.

Perfect information, and I was hoping you would chime in after seeing your stand work

As you saw my old 90 gallon was steel tubes and it was going to have ply magnetized on. But for a tank this small I'd rather not go to a fab shop and lose and arm and a leg. I will stay away from the cheap pine/cheap woods when I shop now that I know this information. Is there a certain type of wood you would recommend? I know kiln dried if I can find it (does HD or lowes carry that stuff?) Any certain species? (is that how you call wood types?)

Would it be dumb of me to rip 2x4 in half if I find some that is dried but no 2x2 that are dried?

Thanks for chiming in Chris and sorry to bombard you with questions! But, you by far have one of the nicest handmade DIY stands I've seen.

[jestep]

You're going to need to find a good lumber yard to get kiln dried 2x2's or 2x4's. HD or Lowes has some but most of it is ceder or interior stuff that's going to be an inch or less thick.

Overall, you may be better of ripping 2x4's for this though. I haven't purchased any in awhile but I always remember it being extremely difficult to find straight 2x2's. Unless you have a planer on hand, possibly a joiner if they aren't extremely bad, you might be better off starting with 2x4's and working them to the smaller dimension.

[(Bio)³]

You're going to need to find a good lumber yard to get kiln dried 2x2's or 2x4's. HD or Lowes has some but most of it is ceder or interior stuff that's going to be an inch or less thick.

Overall, you may be better of ripping 2x4's for this though. I haven't purchased any in awhile but I always remember it being extremely difficult to find straight 2x2's. Unless you have a planer on hand, possibly a joiner if they aren't extremely bad, you might be better off starting with 2x4's and working them to the smaller dimension.

Awesome, and noted. I will start the hunt for a lumber yard near my location. Hopefully I can find a worker on the yard willing to listen to my project idea and they can advise based on their stock what works best.

But please keep the information coming it is very helpful to me.

[Planeden]

You're going to need to find a good lumber yard to get kiln dried 2x2's or 2x4's. HD or Lowes has some but most of it is ceder or interior stuff that's going to be an inch or less thick.

Overall, you may be better of ripping 2x4's for this though. I haven't purchased any in awhile but I always remember it being extremely difficult to find straight 2x2's. Unless you have a planer on hand, possibly a joiner if they aren't extremely bad, you might be better off starting with 2x4's and working them to the smaller dimension.

Awesome, and noted. I will start the hunt for a lumber yard near my location. Hopefully I can find a worker on the yard willing to listen to my project idea and they can advise based on their stock what works best.

But please keep the information coming it is very helpful to me.

sometimes the lumber yard will rip it for you.

[(Bio)³]

You're going to need to find a good lumber yard to get kiln dried 2x2's or 2x4's. HD or Lowes has some but most of it is ceder or interior stuff that's going to be an inch or less thick.

Overall, you may be better of ripping 2x4's for this though. I haven't purchased any in awhile but I always remember it being extremely difficult to find straight 2x2's. Unless you have a planer on hand, possibly a joiner if they aren't extremely bad, you might be better off starting with 2x4's and working them to the smaller dimension.

Awesome, and noted. I will start the hunt for a lumber yard near my location. Hopefully I can find a worker on the yard willing to listen to my project idea and they can advise based on their stock what works best.

But please keep the information coming it is very helpful to me.

sometimes the lumber yard will rip it for you.

Good to know, less work for me is good work!