(Bio)³ Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 If I turn off V1 and V2 the light will stop pulsing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 called neptune sys. I'm going to test my variable speed power outputs later tonight. Gonna go to the dog park and relax for a bit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 My girlfriend works for time Warner so she can make cat5 cable to whatever spec I need. Let me know the official layout the wires need to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 My girlfriend works for time Warner so she can make cat5 cable to whatever spec I need. Let me know the official layout the wires need to be. Standard a format Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 well I am at a loss.... if I turn on v1 and v2 for my meanwells in the biocube then turn on v3 to dim the BML fixture it pulses back to full intensity at random. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 think I fixed it, had to put the ground onto the V2 neg/ground wire and run the pos neg of the driver to the pos neg of v1... running system now to see if it pulses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+o0zarkawater Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Sounds like you guys are having fun. At least with my DIY LEDs, I can blame my brother who I didn't pay anything to for my problems, but he's quick to fix them. Bio; Didn't they give you the wrong light at first? And now you're doing R&D to fix Apex problems that should have been solved before a live launch? Sounds like u found a part time job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+o0zarkawater Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/24753-best-service-every/#entry181097 Apparently you just have to go back over there and have them correct their mistake. Problem? SOLVED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 And whats A format? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 And whats A format? If your GF does ethernet cables then she should know. A format is opposite of B format. Only two formats are used on cabling... your cable BTW is fine. Your keystone jack (the female port on your light driver) is wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 I literally JUST snapped all my stuff back together. let me see if I can figure it out real fast and tell you what wires I re did. Im still waiting on randy to confirm this but since funkness had this problem and they flipped a few wires it all make sense now. just like to get confirmation from OEM. I'm done dealing with this light for tonight though. I've got it able to dim but it does one weird thing. When I dim at 10 V or 100% it dims down then does three pulses each pulse intensity increases. On the third pulse it stabilizes and accepts that slightly brighter setting as 100%. It drops to a dimmer setting but wont stay there and I cant figure out why. I'm waiting on Randy to reply so I can get an understanding. Thank god I spent my last job trouble shooting other peoples errors and doing R&D, it made this process at least bearable. it was not fun at all and it was now more hassle than DIY dimming but I can dim my light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 BTW notice the pic in page 1 victoly shows... that is B format, that is the most common found format and what I think he wired our drivers up at. Neptune uses A format so we need to switch the wiring to that. A format is almost NEVER used in the real world except for military and govt or when people specifically ask to have it. Everything else uses B as the accepted norm. since a cable is just a wire to send signal it doesnt matter what color the insulation is or anything just that they talk to the same pin numbers on both sides.... when you have one in a and one in b you cross signals and dont talk pin 1 to pin 1 and so on, you start talking weird like pin 1 to 4 and 4 to 6 or something... i didnt care to dig in an see the change from a to b, its just flipping like 2 or 3 wires is all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 So I'm confused. Do I need to make 2 cat5 cables with just the 7-8 pins or do I need to change the port on the bml driver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funkness Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 are you having to make it a crossover cable?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funkness Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 hey bio hit me up with format that is needed and i will make the cable if it is a crossover you are talking about thats to easy i have all the stuff sitting right next me to make it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funkness Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 if i am right this is what he talking about let me know bio and whoever eles needs one and how long and ill make them it is weird if these are the types of cable used because they are only used for programming dumb switches and linking 2 computer strait together for lan or sharing files without a router because they can send and receive at the same time rather then just directional where signals send and receive at the same time pretty much like items are hook together switch to switch(without uplink port) or computer to computer (with single nic cards) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 IDK, Bio is the expert on this evidently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funkness Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 hey bio just let me know and how long to make the cables and i will bring them up tomorrow for yall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuildMyLED Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Hey guys. Randy is digging into this issue. Thanks for your patience as we work through the controls integration process. All of our drivers are 0-10V compatible, so we need to work through the specifics of the various control platforms on the market. We added the CAT5 dongle as a way to make your lives easier, so hang in there. If we need to rewire the dongle, we will post instructions or do it for free here at the factory. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 with my keystone jack, Randy wired it into B format. The apex is in A format. Thats the enite problem. Just move your keystone jack wires into A format. run purple to orange green to green and yellow to orange white... problem solve the unit dims. I cant be any more clear than this. Dont bother with cross over cables or anything jut pop open the dongle..... move three wires..... close dongle. Its really not hard... there are no tricks to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Also I will say that after playing with these drivers and dimming them I can see myself in the future ripping the BML driver out and putting a meanwell in. I dont enjoy the fact that 1 when there is no signal it is at 100% on and with 100% signal it is on 10%. Meanwell is opposite if it is 100% on then there is 100% signal or 10V signal if it is off there is no signal... With this type of driver I will have to dim my variable speed to take it to 10% then I have to turn the outlet off to kill all light. A meanwell you can leave the outlet alone and control all light with just the variable speed. I might see if its possible to just buy the light rail with no driver for less and put my own driver with it. I like the light style and all but this driver i dont like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 hey bio hit me up with format that is needed and i will make the cable if it is a crossover you are talking about thats to easy i have all the stuff sitting right next me to make it say again... format A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoly Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Also I will say that after playing with these drivers and dimming them I can see myself in the future ripping the BML driver out and putting a meanwell in. I dont enjoy the fact that 1 when there is no signal it is at 100% on and with 10% signal it is on 10%. Meanwell is opposite if it is 100% on then there is 100% signal or 10V signal if it is off there is no signal... With this type of driver I will have to dim my variable speed to take it to 10% then I have to turn the outlet off to kill all light. A meanwell you can leave the outlet alone and control all light with just the variable speed. I might see if its possible to just buy the light rail with no driver for less and put my own driver with it. I like the light style and all but this driver i dont like. true story :/ might be a deal breaker for me on a bigger tank. outlets are premium for apex, and the ability to turn off via wxm or the variable speed ports is huge. like i said, BMLED needs apex gurus. will work for lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Also I will say that after playing with these drivers and dimming them I can see myself in the future ripping the BML driver out and putting a meanwell in. I dont enjoy the fact that 1 when there is no signal it is at 100% on and with 10% signal it is on 10%. Meanwell is opposite if it is 100% on then there is 100% signal or 10V signal if it is off there is no signal... With this type of driver I will have to dim my variable speed to take it to 10% then I have to turn the outlet off to kill all light. A meanwell you can leave the outlet alone and control all light with just the variable speed. I might see if its possible to just buy the light rail with no driver for less and put my own driver with it. I like the light style and all but this driver i dont like. true story :/ might be a deal breaker for me on a bigger tank. outlets are premium for apex, and the ability to turn off via wxm or the variable speed ports is huge. like i said, BMLED needs apex gurus. will work for lights. Best Idea ever! I would gladly spend more R&D time on the apex for some additional fixtures after all I still need two more But yes you are right, outlet real estate on the APEX is a big deal, to require dimming manipulation on the variable then require the outlet to be controlled poses a big problem. I currently do not know If I will be able to run a system with them like this. Trying to decide how hard and annoying it would be to swap to a meanwell driver to eliminate this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+SChrisEV Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 I don't have an APEX yet, but it is on my short list. This is having me second guess my fixture as well, I have at least two more to purchase for my tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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