+brian.srock Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 So I use to have some micro fauna in my refugium. I've spend over $70 on pod bottles & microfauna kits from the dome but after my algae outbreak that I got cleaned up I no longer have anything in there. I really could only see 2-3 amphipods ever in there and more in my display tank but now nothing. My chaeto also has all this crud on it all time time and grows slowly and theirs a layer of detritus on the sandbed as well. I was dosing 4mL of vodka for my 100g tanks but have ramped it down to 2mL daily. I have a fluval that runs carbon, gfo, and a polishing pad. Is this just a byproduct of my vodka dosing? None of my CUC have died so I just don' t know where everything disappeared to. I do want to put another 10lbs of live sand in there but wanted to know what my options were. I was thinking about throwing another macro algae in there instead of chaeto b/c it breaks off and gets stuck in my return pump filter and helps other things get stuck as well. I now have 0 algea in my display tank and all of my parameters are on par except maybe temperature. I was getting high temps of 82-83 in my DT so I took my heater out and now it's been a constant 80. Just trying to give all the fact. Let me know what you guys think. The right side with the blueish light is my yellow banded brittle sea serpent area and the left side is my refugium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestep Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 What lighting do you have over the chaeto and what's your NO3 and PO4 look like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+brian.srock Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 I haven't tested NO3 or PO4 so I have no clue. I am using a 6500k CFL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Are you dosing powder calcium supplements? I ask because of the crud on your cheato. I had this happen when I was dosing pickling lime. Also, with that much room in your sump where the cheato is, you could run a reverse turf scrubber and it would be a pod haven! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherita Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I can't speak for the crud, but unless you put a baffle in there to keep your macro away from your return, you are going to have the same algae-in-return-pump problem no matter what you use. My sump collects crud on a routine basis, I just get rid of it when I clean the sump about every three months or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+brian.srock Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 I am dosing 2 part BRS and just put a mixed gallon of pickling lime in my ATO which goes into my return section of my sump this was just done 3 days ago. My calcium was at 320 and I've slowly raised it over the month to 410 DerrickH can you send me info on a reverse turf scrubber and I'll look into it. Googled it and theres a lot so not sure which one I should be looking at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Cheato might not be growing due to lack of nutrients. Between vodka and GFO you are probably running low 'nutiant'( ) and that is causing slow growth. I'd open up that cheato ball a bit too. Maybe increase the flow in that area too if you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestep Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I'm leaning towards too few nutrients and the chaeto is starving. The vodka takes the NO3 down and the GFO takes the PO4 down so the chaeto has nothing left to scavenge. I would be interested in seeing your readings if you ever do decide to test them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Id scratch the refugium entirely, but that's me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+brian.srock Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 I'm leaning towards too few nutrients and the chaeto is starving. The vodka takes the NO3 down and the GFO takes the PO4 down so the chaeto has nothing left to scavenge. I would be interested in seeing your readings if you ever do decide to test them. I agree I am probably super low nutrient and I plan on keeping it that way since I don't want to lose any more corals to algae again. Id scratch the refugium entirely, but that's me. Thats actually what I was leaning towards since I never really had a good pod population going in it. I never had issues until I built my sump and I had enough algea to make anyone quit but I stuck with it. I want to look into the reverse algae scrubber though since my insurance for keeping algae out of the DT is having it in the sump. Cheato might not be growing due to lack of nutrients. Between vodka and GFO you are probably running low 'nutiant'( ) and that is causing slow growth. I'd open up that cheato ball a bit too. Maybe increase the flow in that area too if you can. I have my skimmer returning into the refugium and with the flow from the intake it tumbles the chaeto a couple time. I thought I wasn't suppose to have more flow than that in order to keep the refugium a safe zone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+brian.srock Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 I'm leaning towards too few nutrients and the chaeto is starving. The vodka takes the NO3 down and the GFO takes the PO4 down so the chaeto has nothing left to scavenge. I would be interested in seeing your readings if you ever do decide to test them. I have a custom made magnarock if you ever want to swing by and test for me. I used an epoxy coated magnet w/ 34lb pull onto a reefsaver rock. They work great putting frag on the back glass especially monti caps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robb in Austin Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Flow sounds ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Basically a long air stone with some of the plastic sheeting used for knitting and such zip tied to the air stone. Air bubbles travel up the sheet and GHA will grow all over it. GHA consuming your PO4 would be at a drastic rate compared to GFO... Here is an image of it. Rough up the plastic sheeting with some sand paper so the GHA has something to stick to. When it builds up, pull it out and scrape it off with a credit card leaving a little bit left. Also shake the "glob" of it off in the sump to free the hordes of pods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 If it were me, I'd totally ditch the refugium (as long as you keep vodka dosing and using GFO) and turn that sucker into a frag rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 If he doesnt need a good pod population then I'd agree. However, I prefer to use a natural means of consuming the P04 and nitrates. Two birds with one stone, pod hotel and chemical filtration all in one. I tried the voldka, wasnt impressed. GFO is a consumable (not very cheap either) where cheato grows on its own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+brian.srock Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 If it were me, I'd totally ditch the refugium (as long as you keep vodka dosing and using GFO) and turn that sucker into a frag rack. Frag rack is on the chamber to the right. Basically a long air stone with some of the plastic sheeting used for knitting and such zip tied to the air stone. Air bubbles travel up the sheet and GHA will grow all over it. GHA consuming your PO4 would be at a drastic rate compared to GFO... Here is an image of it. Rough up the plastic sheeting with some sand paper so the GHA has something to stick to. When it builds up, pull it out and scrape it off with a credit card leaving a little bit left. Also shake the "glob" of it off in the sump to free the hordes of pods. I will get rid of my chaeto and give this a try. So basically get a bubble wand stone for the whole length of the knitting or just one air stone will do? I just need to figure some things out like how to place it so it's accessable and changable. Since this is in my refugium section should I worry about bubble going into my DT or are they broken up by the time they get into the return section? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I've made way more money off my frag rack then I spent on GFO up to this point. Plus, it's fun to grow little baby corals. Haha. Point taken though, chaeto is a lot less maintenance then glueing corals to frag plugs all day long. Plus, in a natural system, it takes care of itself and doesn't need me to change the media out monthly. Either way, he's already got a frag rack so moot point for myself. If he doesnt need a good pod population then I'd agree. However, I prefer to use a natural means of consuming the P04 and nitrates. Two birds with one stone, pod hotel and chemical filtration all in one. I tried the voldka, wasnt impressed. GFO is a consumable (not very cheap either) where cheato grows on its own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+brian.srock Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 I'd really like pods especially if they can reproduce enough to feed my fish from time to time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 One of those green bubble wands or long bubble stones will work. You can trim the green ones to fit in your sump then take scissors to cut the plastic knitting thing to the same length. The bubbles will keep it upright. Add light source and bingo, your all set. If you can get a bulb with more kelvin than that would work too. I used a 6500k bulb on my cheato, was slow growth. My buddy is using an LED light and his is growing like crazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestep Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I use a 6500K PAR38 LED and I get about a football size of chaeto growth every 2 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I would blame it on the vodka. I've only heard of people dosing vodka for nitrate reactors, at a rate of about 2ml per day, and a turn rate of 2x per week through the reactor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+brian.srock Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 I use a 6500K PAR38 LED and I get about a football size of chaeto growth every 2 weeks. LED bulbs are about $50 so I just don't see it as an essential need especially when I can give the algae scrubber a go for under $5 and can be used with my current bulb. I would blame it on the vodka. I've only heard of people dosing vodka for nitrate reactors, at a rate of about 2ml per day, and a turn rate of 2x per week through the reactor. It could be but my tank is doing awesome now so I won't be reducing it any more than that. I did buy some test tubes so I can premeasure my 2ml of vodka and not have to measure it daily and have it on the counter anymore Is the best way to reintroduce microfauna into my tank asking for chaeto or sand or both? or once I set up the algae trap then stuff that's alive but maybe hibernating or hiding will come out? I have spent $60+ on copepods in the last 6 months, $20 on microfauna, and I'll be buying some more live sand so I'd like to not spend too much more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Just my 2 cents but all the natural copepods, microfauna, and stuff you get from live sand will come in time. No need to pay for it. You can just get some sand and water from an established tank and you're good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+brian.srock Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 Thanks everyone for your help and input. Pulling my hair out with my sump. I'm going to give the algae scrubber a go and I'll report back how it went. First I need to brainstorm ideas to make it easily removable for cleanings. I'm thinking of suspending it in the middle of my refugium right under the light and so algae doesn't build on the glass if it's to close. This video that I think someone here just recently linked to got me wanting to improve my sump http://reefbuilders.com/2010/12/20/julian-sprungs-refugium-oasis-reef-life/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickH Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 the algae will stay on the scrubber due to the surface texture and also the bubbles. I agree, need to find someone thats breaking down a tank and get a couple scoops of sand from them to get your micro/macro fauna back up. Also, could find a few large rocks for sale (live) and break them up for rubble for the fuge. I still dont believe in voldka dosing. It didnt do anything for me but who knows, every tank is different. I had same problem with peroxide as well. In my old 40g tank (very successful tank), my overflow box had a **** load of GHA growing in it. I didnt know it till I tore the tank down. Guess that was my way of biological filtration for P04 and nitrates. I know GHA is better at eating up the nasties than cheato and pods love the stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.