Questions on QTing and Dipping new arrivals

[gibs]

Hey guys I am getting close to getting my 85 setup and I want to start doing some highly recommended procedures such as quarintine and dipping corals and fish. However while I know I just need a bare bottom tank (I have a 25g tank for qt), with some like pvc for hiding places and such...my question is do I need some live rock for filtration? I have read that just using a filter with a sponge is fine and just keep it in your main tanks sump in between uses this doesnt seem like much? Also what about corals? I no that there are products out there for dipping and such and even some postings on just using hydrogen peroxide which is what most of these dips are? Also some corals evidently can't be dipped? Is there a easy way to find out somewhere what can and cannot be used with certain corals? What about Inverts like starfish and nems and what have you? Are these quarantined or use like some kind of dip for fish? Do my fish need to be quarantined and dipped? Every book and research article I have read says it must be done but they don't cover most of these little questions? Any good articles or research you guys can point me to?

TIA you guys are the best!

[subsea]

Gibs,

"Must be done" is an absolute that I do not agree with.

I am not big on automatically dipping corals or for that matter fish and stuff. There is a thread on this site about setting up a brackish water biotheme tank for fish QT. Using that method, the tank would be set up permanately with brackish water fish and macro or live rock. New fish would be brought into an established tank with a QT procedure using hposaline as an ick treatmnt. This hyposaline treatment should last for 4 weeks. This is a non-invasive treatment and QT that works well for fish.

It has been my experience to buy from reputable wholesalers and retailers. I expect them to do the treatment before it gets to the retail level. QT is good. Harsh chemical treatments, as if one dose works for everything, are a last resort. Not a must do procedure, IMO.

Patrick

[dshel1217]

I can’t really help you with QT advice because I’m setting mine up this weekend. Here is a thread on the QT thing.

http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/20597-quarantine-set-up-questions-alot-of-great-info-found-here/page__hl__quarantine

As far as coral dips, I dip all incoming corals in an iodine based dip and if possible hydrogen peroxide and water mix. Hydrogen peroxide also kills unwanted algae that maybe hidden on the frag or coral. Just be careful it can kill corals if left in too long.

[Timfish]

The guidelines for the Association of Zoos and Aquariums only specifies that ALL animals MUST be held in total isolation (quarintine) for 30 days. If for some reason an additional animal is added to ones already in isolation the 30 day period is started over for all animals in isolation together. Most specifics are left up to the indiviual Zoos or Aquariums to determine for themselves.

You will see a lot af different reasons given for setting up QT one way or another. Hyposalinity is the cheapist and very effective way to treat fish for external parasites during QT. Live Rock offers a more natural QT system "in theory" reducing stress to the animal but can not be used in conjunction with hyposalinity but must be used with either a UV sterilizer or a reef safe antiparasitic medication for external parasites (not advisable to use copper or formalin products with live rock). Definitely read the link Dshel1217 posted. My preference for a QT is normal salinity, a huge UV sterilizer (max kill rate with 1 turnover per 1/2 hour) and a fair amount of live rock in addition to PVC pipe as I also quarintine inverts in the same system and keep brittle stars, hermits and Sally Lightfoot crabs as CUC. I don not use antibiotics for 2 reasons, one is lab work should be done to determine which antibiotic is best, 2nd is adding antibiotics to the water is the least reliable way to achieve and maintain theraputic levels in a fish.

There are variuos dip medications for corals and they are not necessarily the same medication. It's best to research the specific species you plan on getting to get a consensus on what is best.

[gibs]

THANKS FOR ALL THE RESPONSES GUYS THIS HAS BEEN EXTREMELY HELPFUL!

Ok well I came home last night and put my drill on the counter...which promptly fell off and landed on my newly cleaned up 25g tank. Broke one side and bottom. I was planning on just repairing it but after a trip to Home Depot to get prices, I decided to go check out a new tank at petsmart across the street. Picked up a new 20g with a cover for 50$. So here is what I have

20g tank with cover and light

Heater

Thermometer

Will use a shallow sand bed and probably either a large piece of rock or a couple of smaller pieces

Aquaclear hang on the back sponge filter (got this cheap so I am going to use it)

Air pump w/airstone.

Going to order a few medications on case by case basis as I order fish (i.e. if I am going to get a ick prone fish I will pick up some ick dip/medication doing research on said fish and what works best. before I get fish)

Also picking up a uv sterilizer tomorrow from a fellow club member breaking his tank down.

What am I missing? Anything I am no thinking of?

THANKS FOR ALL THE RESPONSES GUYS THIS HAS BEEN EXTREMELY HELPFUL!

[+KimP]

Some pvc sections for them to hide in?

[gibs]

Yeah I forgot to add that to the list I already got that Thanks for the reminder!

[dshel1217]

are you going to add dither fish and if so what fish?

[gibs]

I am thinking of adding my yellowtail damsel to it. I also have a ctrinus clown goby and a firefin. Thinking of maybe putting both gobys in and leaving the damsel in my nano, cause he is supposed to be a bit aggressive, even thought I haven't seen any signs of that.