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Question about red bacteria/algae


jbharlan91

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We're starting to get a build up of what looks like the red cyanobacteria on our sand bed and climbing up the glass a bit. I haven't been too concerned about it, but then I noticed that it seems to be climbing up 2 of our corals, the green eyelash and the fairy dust palys. Is this bad for the corals, and if so, how do we get rid of or reduce it? We just had our water parameters checked, no phosphates or nitrates, everything looked good. It's a 29g biocube.

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I've seen some pics of some pretty bad Cyano outbreaks, in most cases it seems that folks just let it run it's course. It's kind of one of those things that goes with "new tank syndrome".

I'll be interested to hear what other folks think. I know there's a product called "Red Slime" that gets rid of it right away, but I generally like the idea of not adding weird chemicals to a tank if at all possible.

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I'm with mindflux...wait it out and if the tank does not balance itself out then work on finding the root of the problem and taking a natural approach at eliminating it.

One thing to help get it under control is to increase water changes and be obidient with them and cut back a little on your light, in 30 minute increments until you find a sweet spot for your system.

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I had it...spread like wildfire. I used chemiclean red slime remover. Worked well.....month later it came back. What finally worked was lots of small water changes and WET SKIMMING LIKE CRAZY! Have to get the nutrient count down. Limit your feeding as well. I trimmed mine back to every 3rd day I would feed. What kind of clean up crew do you have? They say turbo snails will eat it...I call bs. Ive got 9 good sized turbos and they never touched the stuff.

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We've got a lot of snails, they don't make a dent in it. Also, I don't think it's at the point that I would consider bad, I was just concerned that it seemed to be creeping up the base of those 2 corals. Will it hurt the corals? If not, I'm not too worried about it, and will try more frequent water changes and cutting back on the lighting. I don't really want to add chemicals unless it's truly a big problem, which it isn't right now. I've got a lawnmower blenny, a peppermint shrimp, one other type of shrimp, lots of snails and quite a few hermit crabs to clean stuff up. There is also a bristle worm in the back somewhere.

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You have to be careful with chemiclean. Follow the direction exactly and don't overdose. You probably do not have more than 15g of water volume after you figure rock and sand.

I was able to get rid of it in that tank by doing 10 gallon water changes every couple of days, manual removal and adding phosguard. Took about two weeks.

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I'm with the small (10%) weekly water changes and syphoning it off.

I would probably try Boyd's chemipure elite for a month or two before trying the Chemiclean. I haven't tried the Red Slime Remover in a while so I don't know if the formulation has changed and maybe other people's experiences have been different but when I used it it had a pretty negative effect on coraline algae.

Also be carefull about using Chemiclean to much. Several years ago I had a tank that developed a bad case of red slime and used it 3 times in about 4 -5 months. First time it worked like a charm but the third time it didn't phase it, I'm guessing the frequent use created a resistant strain of it. (an additional factor to take into consideration was the system was over 14 years old and had clearly developed "Old Tank Syndrome".)

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I haven't tried the Red Slime Remover in a while so I don't know if the formulation has changed and maybe other people's experiences have been different but when I used it it had a pretty negative effect on coraline algae.

After 2 treatments, I did notice there was a slight "paleness" to the coraline algae, mainly to the new "spots" on the back glass. The coraline algae on the liverock was not phased.

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Okay, another question pertaining to manually removing it. There's not a lot of space between the rock in my aquarium and the glass, definitely not enough for me to get my siphon hoze nozzle in there. Are there smaller tip siphons you can use to siphon the gravel in salt water tanks? Is it a good/bad thing to do to siphon the sand? I have noticed that the red extends down in to the sand in some areas.

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This is what I am talking about. I took this pic last night. Notice the spotty coraline algae on the back glass is very pale, or there is a "hole" in the middle.

My experience was with a fowlr tank and all the coraline was dead in a week. But like I said it was a few years ago and the formulation may have changed. I'm assuming you've checked the pH, alk and calcium in you tank to see if they've changed any. Looks like a nice Fungia by the way.

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Okay, another question pertaining to manually removing it. There's not a lot of space between the rock in my aquarium and the glass, definitely not enough for me to get my siphon hoze nozzle in there. Are there smaller tip siphons you can use to siphon the gravel in salt water tanks? Is it a good/bad thing to do to siphon the sand? I have noticed that the red extends down in to the sand in some areas.

I'll make a "nozzle" for my syphon hose with the housing of a cheap ball point pen like a Bic or Papermate. Toss the cap and yank out the ink cartridge and clip the back end off giving you a hollow tube. Use a rubberband(s) to increase the diameter at one end so it fits snuggly into your syphon hose. Be carefull, in operation this slows the flow rate but increases the suction pressure so it will do significant damage quicker to inverts sucked up. I always keep a kink in the hose in my other hand to control the flow. I would syphon all the sand that appeared affected and either rinse it well in freshwater before reusing it or toss it.

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I would use a turkey baster to blast away at the cyano on the polyps. It will do damage if left on there by blocking light and maybe other mechanisms. Blast away and catch it with a net or siphon. I think cyano is cyclic in that it comes and goes -- which in my tank may be a matter of how consistent I am in maintenance.

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J,

You have been given some good information. With respect to cynobacteria, it does not matter what the nutriant level is in the water column. It manufactures its own nutriants under the red slim mat. Always increase circulation in the effected area. In the case of rock covered red slim algae, use a toothbrush attached to some airline tubing as a siphon and brush rock clean and siphon off. Cynobacteria is a high nutriant sceanario. I run high nutriant natural systems. If I get cynobacteria, I increase phosphate removal. In my case, I use calurpae to remove both phosphate and nitrate.

Patrick

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Pic doesnt really show much for direction. Buy if LED then deffo not excessive light.

Obviously, you have not dealt with quality LED lighting.... Here is a pic I just took of my 110g xhigh, 31" deep with Current USA LED Pro strips.

682ac194.jpg

This is what I am talking about. I took this pic last night. Notice the spotty coraline algae on the back glass is very pale, or there is a "hole" in the middle.

My experience was with a fowlr tank and all the coraline was dead in a week. But like I said it was a few years ago and the formulation may have changed. I'm assuming you've checked the pH, alk and calcium in you tank to see if they've changed any. Looks like a nice Fungia by the way.

I literally just got through treating last Friday, and after the treatment, I did a 50% water change. Nothing affected but red cyano and coraline algae on back glass. Thanks for the compliment on the fungia. I got him as a purple/green fungia, with him almost half and half. Now, he is mostly green. I must be doing something right.

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