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My 210g build


afgun

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Leak test #2 is in progress. Found another small leak in the weir, which is no big deal; I'll slap some silicone on it when the tank is drained. I have another small leak on a pressure fitting off of my pump, which I presume I can seal like I did the last one just by applying extra PVC cement; unfortunately my dog chewed up the syringe today, so I need to pick up another one. Can I get one at a hobby shop or pharmacy without strange looks?

The @%@# bulkhead also has a very slow leak - I didn't notice it when doing my work on the sump in the garage, but it's there. So I guess I need to buy a new 2" bulkhead and redo it, so I probably won't be moving it into its final resting place until next weekend... gotta get that order placed first thing in the morning so it's here during the week.

Slight vibration in the pump as the OM-4 cycles on some of the outlets... not sure what's up with that, but I'll try to do a little work on it this week.

Anyways, keep your fingers crossed that all is good. If so, we'll move it into final place hopefully next weekend then start on the rock wall!

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Glad it's all coming together. I still prefer the K.I.S.S. method when planning for plumbing and wave-making. Less fittings (and holes) equal less chance for leaks.

I'm guessing that when the OM spins it might be completely shutting the flow and that causes the pump to get upset? Then when the pressure is released it quiets down. I said to myself the first time I saw one, that I'd only ever run one was if I ran two. That way the chances of it being closed would be lessened. While one was turning, hopefully the other would be open.

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Glad it's all coming together. I still prefer the K.I.S.S. method when planning for plumbing and wave-making. Less fittings (and holes) equal less chance for leaks.

Yes, I have realized this. And if I had to do it over again I would run the outputs over the rim instead of drilling the back for them (they'd be hidden by the hood anyways).

I'm guessing that when the OM spins it might be completely shutting the flow and that causes the pump to get upset? Then when the pressure is released it quiets down. I said to myself the first time I saw one, that I'd only ever run one was if I ran two. That way the chances of it being closed would be lessened. While one was turning, hopefully the other would be open.

There's definitely a pressure differential between the returns on the top of the tank and those in the bottom. I'm going to be redoing the returns in the bottom of the tank to get better pressure (ie fewer outlets) as well as to satisfy my wife's desire to not see "ugly pipes sticking out of the sand".

Leak-test #2 was done for several days... holds water a lot better, but the fitting that I goobed PVC cement onto is still leaking. I acquired a new bulkhead and will commence surgery tonight to replace the fitting leg along with another leaky fitting. More teflon tape and tightening of fittings on the return system will happen too. The bulkhead in the sump was leaking again too; research showed that I did the right thing by moving the gasket to the flange side, even though it's on the outside of the tank. But the PVC cement that I used on the fitting that screws into it crept up the threads... causing it to go egg-shaped when tightened down. I replaced the fitting with a new one and the leak test in my garage today was successful.

I have a punch-down list of things to re-seal tonight. It's coming along slowly but surely.

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A couple of changes later, and we're ready for hopefully the final leak test. Sealed the leak on the weir (doesn't affect operation, but if it's shut off for awhile will affect water level in the sump. Moved the water outlets above the trim - so I guess the scalloping we did wasn't necessary, prof. Redid the bottom outlets based on input from an unhappy wife and the need to reduce outlets... and I taped and re-tightened all of the bulkheads. I also replaced a couple of joints in the under-tank plumbing that were leaking. I did them as my PVC cement was running out, so apparently didn't get quite enough glue on them. The new joints have PLENTY of cement! :D Water test tomorrow after the silicone where we cut the glass dries...

DSC_0027.JPG

In the mean time, I have plenty of other work (RODI system, rock wall, new power circuits) to keep me busy!

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Leak test 3.0 was not successful. 2 leaking flexPVC to PVC joints, the new bulkhead wasn't quite tight enough, one fitting wasn't screwed in quite far enough to the pump and the fernco wasn't tightened enough. The sumps and sump bulkheads appear good though, which is definitely a step in the right direction. I'm using rain-r-shine PVC cement, so I'll start leak test 3.1 in a couple of hours. Learn from my experience... if you are running low on PVC cement or what you have is old/thick, then do yourself a favor and get some new cement... you'll appreciate it in the end!

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Leak test 3.1 continues... The siphon fires right up and settles down to steady-state condition. There is only a teeny bit of seepage from a couple of seams in the sump. Figures... I wrangled them around quite a bit to dry under them after leak test 3.0's dismal failure... so I'm sure that's how I introduced pinhole leaks. When I take the water out to put it in its final resting place, I can put some weld-on against the seams to re-seal. No big deal.

So... anyone interested in and able to help me move this bad boy? I need to slide it a few feat back so that it's against the wall. Prof, I'd like to borrow your suction cups to help facilitate the move, as well as your time if you're available. I'll need a couple of people to lift the tank to take weight off of the stand and a couple of people to slide the stand as we all shimmy towards the wall... I'm in east Round Rock if you're interested in helping. I'll try to draft my neighbor as well.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Apparently the person who placed my breaker box was not feeling very sane... because there is no way that I can get additional wires into it without taking out some drywall to fish wires. The attic access runs to a header, and the box is 2 studs on the other side of the header down in the garage. Gotta get my wife's approval before I start cutting into drywall in the garage. It has that $@%@% impossible-to-duplicate knockdown texture on it, but it is in the garage, so ugly should be acceptable. I'm not feeling well today so I'll stew on it and tackle tomorrow if I get the approval. I guess I'll start planning how to mount the RODI system in the closet in the meantime. Anyone have removable-top barrels? I have one 55gal but need another or maybe a pair of 30s or 40s...

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It has that $@%@% impossible-to-duplicate knockdown texture on it

When I was shopping for a house every one of them had this. I don't get why it's so popular. I have some nicks in the wall from when the previous owner moved out. Not sure how I will repair that.

Charles

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just about finished the wiring of 2 new circuits, but I ran out of energy. Tomorrow morning I'll run to Lowes and trade in my non-GFCI breaker for a GFCI breaker on the garage outlet that I'm adding (need a 220 for my air compressor and I'm FINALLY getting around to doing it since I already had the panel open). If I ever get my hands on the #$%@# that placed the electrical panel in my house... I had to cut 3 access holes in the upper garage wall and drill a bunch of holes to feed the wiring through. 2 15-Amp circuits for the aquarium ought to be enough to keep myself out of problems. I'll hook them up in the am and test them out. I put GFCI outlets on the end of each since we are dealing with water here. The outlets sit just behind the aquarium stand. Perfect location actually worked out!

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I got my barrels from a lady in Leander selling on ATXCL (that's code cause we are never to mention that place here at ARC- Forbidden) as rain barrels. She was just off 1431 and the Parmer extension. Great selection of barrels. I bought screw top 55g for about $25 each. She had some with a ratchet type strap, screw top, snap bands, and 2" bung. PM me if you can't find her.

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Thanks, Mike. I'll check that out. I finished wiring the breakers this morning and I now have a pair of dedicate 15A GFCI circuits for the aquarium. Now I need to borrow prof's suction cups and con...vince several people to come help me move the aquarium stand back against the wall... innate1 you still up for helping?

In the meantime I will be stopping by prof's to get some dry rock for the rockwall, and I'll be mounting my RODI system. There's light at the end of the tunnel and I don't think it's a train!

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  • 5 weeks later...

Slow going... this weekend I built the eggcrate frame for the rock wall, but haven't done anything with the 100# that I picked up from prof yet. It should be warming up a tad later this week so I'll head out to the garage with my BFH to break the dry rock apart... with luck i'll all lay on the frame without needing a saw, but I do have a contingency plan to head over to home despot and rent one.

I do need to arrange people to come over and help me move the stand into final place against the wall...

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Got a little work done before the weather turned cold overnight. Laid out the rock wall:

post-1093-0-12570200-1292175818_thumb.jp

and made the center section as a test:

post-1093-0-10129100-1292175781_thumb.jp

I think that it looks pretty decent, though I didn't realize that this "pond foam" still requires to be painted/sealed if exposed to sunlight... so I need to get some epoxy and crushed coral to cover the exposed foam. I think that it turned out fairly well... later today I'll trim the foam that squeezed out through the eggcrate and test fit it in the tank. Assuming all goes well, I'll do the end pieces on Tuesday when it warms back up... I hope this looks good in the tank!

Thoughts?

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Test-fit the center section today - fits well but leans in a bit so I'll have to silicone it in place. Made the outer 2 sections. Tomorrow I'll trim them up and then test fit 'em. I need to get some epoxy and crushed coral to cover the exposed foam now. I'm off to pick up the suction cups later this evening. Now I have to think about putting my RODI system together!

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All 3 pieces fit in fairly well, though some minor trimming will be required. Looks good. Ordering epoxy today and I'll pick up some cc and sand this weekend.

Anyone up for helping me move the tank to its final resting spot Saturday around noon?

post-1093-0-01401800-1292538394_thumb.jp

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Thanks to Prof (Dave), KNA Aquatics (Andy, the builder of the magnificent stand and hood), my friend Chris, my neighbor Derek and Caferacermike's suction cups, we moved the stand a couple feet back to its permanent home.

post-1093-0-73924800-1292778570_thumb.jp

And here's a bit of documentation as to why you should definitely waterproof the bottom of your stand...

post-1093-0-69299400-1292778543_thumb.jp

During the first leak test, I had a lot of water in the bottom of the stand. Got it cleaned up, but there was so much that some seeped around the shower liner and took stain with it... here's hoping that the carpet cleaner will take it out, otherwise it's my hide!

Edited by afgun
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So I think it's mold not stain... I did have a fair amount of water leaking during the first test, and a bunch likely got under the stand in the carpet :) I will initiate mold remediation procedures today. Wish me luck.

On a more positive note, I made some more progress yesterday. Got a board mounted with the lighting power supplies:

post-1093-0-10781800-1292943170_thumb.jp

And I mounted my power strips (found these really cool ones with individual switches for each outlet):

post-1093-0-08274600-1292942939_thumb.jp

My barrel for the RODI is supposed to be delivered today, so I need to start setting that system up, and of course I have a little trimming to do on the rock wall before attaching it to the back (silicone I'm thinking). Slow but steady progress!

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