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OgreMkV

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  1. OgreMkV

    Too many zoas!

    Derry's Eye of Ra's are great and the dragon's eyes too. My colony was growing very quickly until I fracked them up. My wife's PMing you about more dragon eye and the blow pop.
  2. Everytime I see Mcallahan's kid's name, I think... Scottish Brigadier General???

  3. I haven't put a blog post up in a while, so here goes... I'm sure that you are intensely curious about how the LED lights are working out. Otherwise, you'd be off reading LOLcats or something. I'm glad you asked. Personally, I think the light is great. I guess it's been about two months now. I've worked the lights up to a nearly full schedule with the blues only on for about 9 hours and the blues and whites on for 8 hours. There is a very noticable shimmer effect. However staring at the tank with the blues (inspite of the beautiful florescence from the zoas) hurts my eyes and makes me dizzy... but then I'm subject to vertigo). We've had to rearrange a fair bit of the tank because of the new lights. A couple of mushrooms have basically disappeared by burying themselves in the live rock. On the other hand, if there is any shade, the mushrooms are growing and reproducing rapidly (we won't have to frag any for the next swap, there are plenty of babies). THe star polpys are likewise very diminished because of the light. We've moved the leather from the top of the tank to the bottom and it seems happier. We've added a couple of more zoas (mostly low) and another SPS... with another one on the way. Here's the best example of growth in the tank. A birdnest coral. Here it is right before Christmas (2009) March 20th Here it is as of May 1
  4. In this article I will present the information that I have found to date. It was actually fairly difficult mainly because this is such a well known requirement that all the research was done well before the 1980s. As such most of the papers I present here will be standard references (not hyperlinked), but should be available at major university libraries. First a quick lesson in the Nitrogen cycle. Source: http://www.epa.gov/m...l/nitrogen.html Now, this shows land, but where the cycle is slightly different for fresh or saltwater, I'll note the changes. We'll start with the fish, since this is mainly what the conversation is about. Fish need nitrogen for literally everything in their bodies. Nitrogen is a primary component of every protein and strand of genetic material (DNA and RNA) in every cell of every organism on the planet. However, there is plenty of nitrogen available and organisms (including fish) have no problem finding sufficient nitrogen in easily usable forms. There's generally some nitrogen left over and (in land animals) that is excreted in the form of uric acid (urea AKA pee-pee). However, fish do something very different, they excrete an amide called glutamine from their gills. The glutamine is hydrolized in water to produce glutamic acid and ammonia. ( http://www.elmhurst....3ureacycle.html). The appropriate reactions are: Glutamine (aq.) + H20 --> glutamate+ + NH4+, Glutamate + H+ --> glutamic acid, (http://www.biochemj....395/0710395.pdf) Now for the not so chemically literate that means that as glutamine is ejected from fish, it reacts with water to form glutamate ion and ammonium ion. The glutamate then reacts with hydrogen ions to form glutamic acid. Other bacteria (called decomposers) also contribute to the nitrogen load of the aquarium. Uneaten food, fish poop, decaying plants, heck, even fish scales, are all consumed (slowly) by bacteria. This process releases ammonia. Note for freshwater aquariests: It is true that plants will uptake ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites. This paper gives a lengthy discussion of the topic (http://www.hort.purd...ake/nu00001.htm) However, there is some blockage of the uptake of one form of nitrogen for others (some plants like ammonia, while some prefer nitrites). Also, the pH is an important moderator for the uptake of these nutrients into plants. The following discussion will note that the change of one form of nitrogen to another produces an acidic environment. Here's where the bacteria get started (see chart above). First bacteria that nitrify ammonium for their energy source (generally of Nitrosomonas or Nitrosococcus genus (at least for aquariums)) do the following: NH3 + O2 + 2H+ + 2e− → NH2OH + H2O (1.1) NH2OH + H2O → NO−2 + 5H+ + 4e− (1.2) What this means that the bacteria use a small amount of energy (2 electrons) and two hydrogen ions to create ammonium hydroxide and water. Then they convert the ammonium hydroxide into nitrite (NO2-), 5 Hydrogen ions, and more energy (4 electrons). It's not very efficient, but it's enough for these bacteria to live on. Note that there are 5 hydrogen ions produced for every 2 ions used... this increases the acidity of the water. Now the nitrifying bacteria that work on nitrites go to work. These are generally Nitrobacter (freshwater and marine) or three other genuses in marine environments. They do the following: NO−2 + H2O → NO−3 + 2H+ + 2e− (2) Basically, these are taking the nitrites and hydrolysing it to form nitrates, 2 more hydrogen ions and 2 electrons for the energy. Again, more hydrogen ions making the water more acidic. This is where the nitrogen cycle in freshwater takes generally stops. These reactions take place in the presence of oxygen. Freshwater aquariests rarely go any further with this because the equipment necessary to create an anaerobic environment for the denitrifying bacteria is rare, expensive, homemade, or not needed because water changes are easier to do. For the marine types, we'll take it one step further. The bacterial species Thiobacillus denitrificans, Micrococcus denitrificans and the genus Pseudomonas use oxygen as a terminal electron receptor which is why it must be in an anaerobic (without oxygen) environment. If there is oxygen, then even these bacteria don't really do what they are supposed to (at least for us). In marine tanks, an anaerobic environment is found deep in the pores of the live rock and deep under the sand (lower than about 3-4 inches) which is why a 6 inch sand bed is recommended. Note that any flow to an area renders this chemical reaction impossible (by pumping in oxygen) so there are no filters that can allow nitrifying bacteria to grow and flourish. The chemical reaction in these bacteria is as follows: 2NO3- + 10e- + 12H+ → N2 + 6H2O This is a good thing and what we want to happen. This reaction (and our friends the bacteria) convert the toxic (see below) nitrogen compounds back into gaseous nitrogen that has no effect on our tank. Note the use of large numbers of hydrogen ions in this reaction. However, remember the above reactions, this only removes the hydrogen ions generated from the nitrite to nitrate step. Also, something to keep in mind, cyanobacteria (often wrongly called an algae) does the reverse of this and converts gaseous nitrogen back into ammonium or one of the nitrogen species for use by itself and/or plants or true algaes. So if you have a cyano outbreak, all the nitrifying and denitrification bacteria in your tank are just barely keeping up. This paper is critical for our discussion: https://kb.osu.edu/d.../OH_WRC_490.pdf It describes the toxicity of various nitrogen products to the common guppy (Poecilia reticulus). {NOTE: This paper also describe the problems the researchers had in keeping the ammonia levels constant in the tanks as evaporation of the water caused the ammonia concentration to increase by 5% over four days. The tests also observed a change in pH from 7.5 to 6.9 in four days.} The final results are that 1.26mg of ammonia per liter has a LD50. That's lethal dose 50%... or the level at which 50% of the fish will die. 199 mg/L of nitrate will do the same thing. That's within a three day time frame. When ammonia and nitrate are both present, LD50 occurs when the the concentrate of ammonia is .5mg/L and nitrate is 30mg/L at the same time. Just because most Americans aren't familiar with the metric system... a grain of rice weighs between 20-30 milligrams. A ten gallon tank is roughly 30 liters. So if there's the equivalent of a grain of rice worth of nitrate in the water and one/sixtieth of a grain of rice worth of ammonia is in the tank, then 50% of the fish will probably die. So for the freshwater guys, water changes are a must. For the Saltwater group, water changes (for nitrogen and compounds) can be reduced significantly because of the availability of anaerobic environments in our sandbed and live rock (both in the tank and in sumps/refugiums). Please note that over time, the bacteria can grow and cause congestion in these areas such that nitrate removal is reduced. This is anecdotal as I have not seen any research on this topic.
  5. Hi guys, So I'm noticing that I've got bubbles forming in the tank now that I've added fish and the bubbles are staying on the surface. So, I guess it's time to add a skimmer. I need one that is HOB and has the pump on the outside of the tank (not hanging on the inside). This would be for a 45G pent tank with a pair of clowns, two yellow gobies, and a tail-spot blenny (plus assorted corals). Thanks
  6. Are these shipped to individuals or to one person and we'll have to pick them up?
  7. OK, I'm trying fish one more time. If it doesn't work, I don't know what else to do. Different source this time. We bought a pair of Ocellaris clowns and a pair of yellow clown gobies. I also got a frag of an acropora of some type. Pics forthcoming.
  8. OgreMkV

    Wanted SPS

    OK. What's 'digi'?
  9. OgreMkV

    Wanted SPS

    I just got my LEDs going so I want to try adding another SPS to my tank. I've got a birdsnest and it's doing fantastic. I have a Coralife 20" PC fixture with a new bulb (less than a month old). It's 96W and has both actinic and 10K parts of the bulb (one of the 4 part bulbs, 2 actinic, and 2 10K). I would probably be interested in trading my two leathers (on one rock) for some kind of SPS as well. I'll get a picture up shortly. Let me know what you have available. Thanks Kevin
  10. Wow. These lights are great... not sure if it's the power, the color spectrum, the intensity, or what, but the corals are obviously much happier. My Armor-of God zoas have fully opened for the first time in months. The Eye-of-Ra zoas are doing the same. I accidentally hit the leather with a 30W and it sucked in super fast. I moved the lights and it's already back up. The LEDs are not actually dimmable. The programming is based on the timee and their are three choices (all off, blues on, whites on). Right now, my PCs were running from 11:00A to 9:30P. The LEDs are set to the following: blues on at 10:30 whites on at 12:00 whites off at 17:00 blues off at 18:30 That's five hours of white and 8 of blue (420-470nm). I was thinking about getting a full glass top for the tank, but I'm going to wait as the plastic top that's on now may be helping attenuate the intensity of the LEDs.
  11. This unit is the G1 maxspect 160W. The G1s are basically old models and no longer available, so I got it much cheaper. The G2s have the same wattage, but have three timers (you can fire the twin 30s seperately from the other whites and blues). The G2s also come with 4 1W violet moon lights. Does anyone have a suggestion for light cycle times? I was thinking of running the blues for 9 hours and the whites for 7 or so and see what happens. I am very nervous about killing off the lower light corals. I can't move many of them because they are pretty well attached. Thanks for the help. Kev
  12. I just got home from a business trip and the lights cam in at the same time I was flying out. So here's the first pics. no real review yet except this seems like a solid piece of equipment. There's really no 'cheap feeling from anything here. I will say that this is G1, not the G2. So I don't have moonlights (no big deal) and there's no separate programing for the pair of 30W LED floods. On the other hands, shipped, this units was less than $500. And a rough time between LED replacement of 24 months is pretty impressive. The lighting unit is actually much smaller than the 20" PC fixture it will replace and much lighter too. The LEDs are very thin and the rest of the unit is a pair of fans and a HUGE aluminum heat sink. THe powersupply and programmer are a separate unit. On to the pics unboxing (mounting rails on top, side attach rails already on unit., hanging gear in bag, power supply on left) the lights themselves (the big panels are the 2 30W whites, the others are half blues and half whites) Tank with current 96W PC (dual actinic and 10K) fixture Tank with LEds (whites and blues)... there is a noticable shimmer in the water column and these pics really do not show the glowing of the corals. Even the mushrooms are glowing (well, some of them). ♠ Tank with just blues
  13. MD has the panorama. I was looking at that, but this was slightly cheaper and seemed to have better PAR values. If anyone has a PAR meter, then I'll be willing to put up test results.
  14. These lights are fairly new. They were just introduced last month. I haven't seen a lot of them around. One of the few places that has them is in Germany and it was $135 shipping to get them here. The current tank light is a 96W PC bulb that's dual 10K and actinic. I'll have before and after shots for next weekend.
  15. My rich uncle gave me a few bucks (like he does every year about this time) and I bought my wife a new laptop and me a new set of lights for the tank. I've been researching the heck out of metal halide and LED lamps for a month now. Finally... I gave in. I found a really great price on a 160W LED unit. It's the G2 16) on this page: http://www.fish-street.com/product_p...hp?item_id=454 There are 2 30-Watt white bulbs (about 20K) 14 3-Watt white bulbs (about 10K) 14 3-Watt blue (420nm) 4 1-Watt violet moon lights. Each color bank (and the big whites) are independently programmable. I've got the plans drawn up for a solid glass top. Going Monday to have that made. The unit should be here on Tuesday. From the pictures I've seen (on other forums), it is epically bright. I'm planning on running it without the 30W whites for several weeks, the turning them on, just for a while at first, then building up time. I'm also planning on adding a few more SPSs in prominent locations. Full report forthcoming.
  16. I don't know if this helps you, but I did mine myself and it's a bit larger than one of the pre-packaged nanos, but it's about the same price. Occasionally, you'll find a really good deal at petco or petsmart. I got a 45 gallon pentagonal tank with stand for only $150. The light is a single 96W PC fixture that I bought from a guy here on ARC (about $125 new). I've got a aquaclear 70 HOB filter with sponges and cermamic tubes (about $50?) and a pair of PHs with a sponge filter on one of them (about $30 each). So for, less than $400, I've got a much larger tank than a normal nano and it's was pretty cheap. Pluse the upgrade possibilities are endless. Add a Metal halide, put a HOB refugium and skimmer, throw a sump underneath... etc. I would encourage you to go that route rather than with something that can never be upgraded (at least is very difficult to upgrade).
  17. Right now i've got a pair of clowns (ocellaris) in the Q-tank. As I don't plan on having anything larger than those two, it will be fine for me. In the future I'll have a goby or blenny to be named later and maybe a shrimp. I've only a 45g display tank that's pretty coral heavy so I'll be going easy on the fish.
  18. OK, so my two clowns had ich. I assume it was ich because I don't have a microscope and a degree in marine parasites. The two clowns have been in a ten gallon quarantine tank with a small heater and a maxi-jet 900 ph with a sponge filter. The sponge filter and the maxi-jet have been in my display tank for about 8 months, so it's well seeded with bacteria. Never-the-less, I did a 10-20% water change daily. There are a pair of 3-inch PVC pipe elbows in the Q-tank as well. The smaller of the two clowns got several (less than 10) white spots on him. After a day, the spots went away and they were gone for four days. Then they came back and there were many more than before (not a dusting, but more than 10 spots). The large clown also got a single spot this time. At no point did either fish show signs of stress due to the ich. No clamped fins or fast breathing and both were eating heartily. We were advised by an authority that I trust (i.e. not LFS) not to use copper products on clownfish. We had the malachite green/formalin solution and went ahead and started the treatment. 9 drops went into the tank. It's supposed to be 1 drop per gallon. I figured with a light case of ich and the pipe, sponge, ph, and heater, 9 drops would be sufficient without straining the fish. The water turned a nice bright blue and we watched the fish carefully for the first hour. They seemed to have no problems so we turned out the light and went to bed. Apparently, it's important to medicate as near as possible to the time the lights go out so that the parasites are hit with the treatment when they drop off the fish for the night. The next morning everything was fine. That evening I did a 10-20% water change (because the medication probably killed all the bacteria in the sponge) and retreated. The medication regime is for three doses 24 hours apart. For us it was nine drops each time and a 10-20% water change a few hours before treatment time. At no point did the fish seem stressed due to treatment. It was obvious that they didn't enjoy it, hiding under the sponge filter or in the pipe elbows, but no stress, heavy breathing and always hungry. After the third treatment, I waited 24 hours and placed a large bag of carbon in the tank. I don't have a HOB filter, so I just dropped the carbon bag in the tank. I'll do an additional water change tomorrow and return to my testing regime. Malachite green/formalin is some nasty stuff and you don't want it on you or spilling on the table or floor. There have been no spots on the fish since the final treatment. I'm hoping that the treatment will not have to be repeated. In conclusion, Malachite Green/formalin (30%) solution seems to be an effective treatment.
  19. We (or at least one of us) will be there!
  20. Hey guys, This is our first real freeze since moving to the area. We live in a fairly new house with a slab foundation. What do we need to do? Drip faucets? indoor and outdoor? Thanks
  21. Definitely a fast grower. I've got PC lights and mine has doubled in main branch length and I've got 3 new branches.
  22. OgreMkV

    Flow help

    Hi guys, I need some help. I seem to flow a water flow problem. It's either too much or not enough and everything is getting POed at me. The tank is a 45g pentagon. About 24 inches wide and high (on the longest sides) and 24 or so high. The top 1/3 of the tank is free from rock work, while the bottom 2/3 is pretty heavy. See full tank shot below At the moment, I've got an aquaclear 70 HOB filter (about 300 gph), a koralia 1 (400gph) and a maxijet 900 (with a sponge filter) (less than 250 gph). So call it 900 gph. I can't seem to get them adjusted to the point where the torch and the hammer corals aren't getting beat to death. I'm wondering if the koralia is too much (not to mention having a narrow range of positions) and I should switch it for another maxijet with the diffuser. Since my chemistry is finally getting better (pH and kH issues) and I have no measurable nitrates, nitrites, etc... maybe I could slow down the aquaclear, I just don't want it to get stagnant in the filter. I also want to get this fixed up before my fish come in. If anyone wants to come over this weekend and fling advice at me, I've got some ham, southwest dip, chips, and some cookies left over from New Years. Thanks Kevin
  23. Trust me. Go see this movie. The story line is better than expected. Pay the $14 bucks for the IMAX 3-D version. The cinematography will blow you away. The science (for those of us so inclined) is fascinating. It is really a stunning movie... by far the best movie I've ever seen.
  24. More from Tate1... thanks! Candy Cane Acan Shrooms New zoas and the armor of god Full tank shot
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