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OgreMkV

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Everything posted by OgreMkV

  1. So far, I haven't found one vendor that has everything I wanted to order.
  2. We missed the last CUC order and we can't wait any longer. We're going to be making a Live Aquaria order within three weeks. Any interest in a group order? You'd have to let me know and pay via paypal. We live in Round Rock and pick up would be here. It's free shipping if we get to $225. I've got $50 and some change so far. If there's sufficient interest, I'll add the information for payment and pickup and we'll get this going. We're planning on having delivery on the first or second Friday in March (the 3th or 11th) Thanks Kevin
  3. Lexie's writing a major before and after post of our tank.

    1. lexiemc

      lexiemc

      I added to my "new fish 44gal" posted under Photo discussion.

  4. No, it's not attached, but I'm just not sure how much I want to do that for an 'iffy' chance at keeping the eggs going. I'm glad of the eggs, it shows my tank has a good ecosystem. I'll try to keep them, feed with rotifer and the like.
  5. So I read that Clown GOby eggs take about 4 days to hatch, then another 45 days to complete metamorphasis. All I have food wise that might work for them is frozen rotifers. They are buried up in the candy cane (as shown) and away from any powerheads and major flow. I'm wondering if it's worth trying to get the quarantine tank up and going? I'll still have to have a powerhead in that and all I have is a big sponge filter for it. Thoughts? Suggestions?
  6. Yes, but those do not impact photosynthesis except in a very minor way (less than 50% absorption), most is reflected. As will said, there are two things to consider: Photosynthesis and Aesthetics There are different requirements for each. Hydro, did you read the article i posted (and I think someone else reposted)? The LED has 2/3rds the PAR at only 1/3rd the power. Cost wise, a new MH bulb every 6 months ($75 or so a pop), a reflector ($150-$250), the ballast ($150 or so). I think LEDs are pretty comparable price wise, even if you have to replace the lamps every 18 months or so (between $3 and $8 per, but that price is coming down quickly). Plus there are the environmental costs. Anyway, I've said my piece. I think LEDs are quite comparable to MH and slightly edge out T5s and are way better than PCs.
  7. Quantitative comparison of lighting systems Try this... P.S. You're welcome to come over sometime and take a look at my lights. I won't be home this weekend, but shoutd be available anytime after that and we're hosting the September ARC meeting.
  8. I've heard way too many different figures for the comparioson between LEDs and MH. I'd say that a light meter would be the better choice, rather than an estimate like that. Maybe a camera shop would loan a light meter or let us test fixtures there? A PAR meter would be even better, that would let us compare apples to apples. Let me see if I can find something research like... My LED fixture was about $400. It's a maxspect G1 160W fixture. The G1s have been replaced with G2s, but the wattage is comparable, the G2s just use better LEDs and have moon lights. We'd also need to consider placement depth as that's an important part of available light and the photo period. I don't have anything but a display tank, so the frag would have to go in that. I'm running 8 hours at full power, then another hour (30 min morning and evening) with 54W of actinics only.
  9. Hydro, The information above is for all photosynthetic organisms. Whether it's a pine tree, photosynthetic bacteria, or corals (the symbiotic parts at least), they all use chlorophyll alpha and chlorophyll beta, some also use Beta carotene, but that's another story and really more about the chemical precursors to the chlorophyll compounds. That being said, I'm sure that some organisms may have more of one type of chlorophyll than another organism, but the 420-460nm and 680nm is really best for anything that's photosynthetic. As far as the first experiment goes, I just don't have room for another tank (rental house here), but I'd be willing to take a coral frag for a period of time. There's so many difference though, that the test results would be basically meaningless. Feeding schedule, other nutrients in the water, I even have a pair of stupid clown gobies that like to sit in SPSs and may harass them. One possibbility would be to take your nano cube and put a piece of black PVC down the middle and put an LED on one side and a MH on the other. Count me in as an experimenter. To remove as much of the uncertainty as possible, we'd need to get all shots using a single camera. (I'll volunteer my Nikon point and shoot, it's good for this sort of thing) and we'd both have to do initial chemistry checks (as much as possible) and a PAR meter would be really helpful. Otherwise, we'd need to do the water checks every few days and keep a log along with pics. There are a few potential areas of concern: the afore mentioned gobies and the fact that I have a difficult time keeping calcium above 300. Magnesium is good, but calcium stays low for some reason.
  10. My understanding is that you could have a million lumens and photosynthetic organisms can still starve. The light must be in the correct wavelengths. Consider the following: This diagram (taken from here: Photosynthesis and light wavelengths) shows that photosynthesis is greatest in the 420-460nm (nanometers) wavelengths, with another strong peak at 660-68nm. The top graph shows that at 420 and 680, almost 100% of incoming light is absorbed (by different chlorophyll molecules). Between about 520nm and 660nm less than 50% of the light hitting the organism is absorbed (this would be why plants look 'green' as green is 492nm to 577nm). So 50% of the energy of any bulb that puts out green light is wasted... as far as photosynthesis is concerned. In terms of MH lamps, that's wasted energy and wasted heat for no real reason. The OP is correct in that LEDs generally generate a very specific frequency of light (same thing with an actinic T-5 or PC bulb). However, the ability to place many different LED and varying (and photosynthetically important) wavelengths give it a slight advantage (IMHO) over MH. So, a very well designed LED fixture with multiple lamps mostly in the 420-460nm range and the 660-680nm range will provide the best possible lighting for the organism. Other lighting may be required to make you think the tank is pretty. Those 15,000K - 20,000K bulbs for example, produce a beautiful effect in the tank for us, but aren't really all that different for the organisms than a 6500K bulb. Check this graph out: OK, this is really more about blackbody radiation, but the center of the colored area has a line that shows how the Kelvin (K) temperature rating of a blackbody (light bulb is close enough for our purposes) relates to the color of light (the line around the outside of the colored area shows the wavelength). You can see that anything about about 6500K is mostly blue, which is what drives photosynthesis anyway. I hope that helps a little.
  11. First, let me say this. I'm not an expert in lighting systems, but I am a scientist and I can do research. I would suggest this page: Aquarium Lighting It gives an in-depth discussion of all factors of aquarium (both fresh and salt) lighting and the descriptions of various lighting methods. This is the main reason that I chose to go with LEDs. Now, with my LED set-up, I've got 2 30-Watt white LED spots (running at roughly 18,000K). There are 14 3-Watt whites (6500K) and 14 3-Watt actinics (420 nanometers). The 420s and the 6500Ks are EXACTLY what photosynthetic organisms (all of them) need. There's not a whole lot of variation in photosynthetic organisms, that's what they need. The 18,000Ks are for the looks. I can only tell you my experience with LEDs as I've never run MH. I love the LEDs. The whole unit is cool to the touch all the time. When I had a 96W power compact lamp, I was given a small frag of birdsnest SPS. It did OK at the very top of the tank, it maybe doubled in length in 4 months. I put in 160W LEDS and moved the birds nest to the bottom of the tank, it has still grown like gangbusters. Like so: December (acquisition of birds nest under PCs) January (still PCs) (upper middle right, next to the intake tube) March (aqusition of LEDs) - this pic was the day after I got the LEDs, so no real influence of LEDs yet Sometime in May (LEDs and moved to the bottom of the tank) Since then, I've added some really nice, heavy lighting requirement corals and they are doing fine under the LEDs. Added bonus, I won't have to even think about changing light bulbs for another 12 months. They say 5 years, but I'm being conservative and planning to upgrade half the lamps in 8 months or so and the rest about this time next year. I'll be upgrading them to the same wattage, but higher lumen units.
  12. Everytime I see Mcallahan's kid's name, I think... Scottish Brigadier General???

  13. In this article I will present the information that I have found to date. It was actually fairly difficult mainly because this is such a well known requirement that all the research was done well before the 1980s. As such most of the papers I present here will be standard references (not hyperlinked), but should be available at major university libraries. First a quick lesson in the Nitrogen cycle. Source: http://www.epa.gov/m...l/nitrogen.html Now, this shows land, but where the cycle is slightly different for fresh or saltwater, I'll note the changes. We'll start with the fish, since this is mainly what the conversation is about. Fish need nitrogen for literally everything in their bodies. Nitrogen is a primary component of every protein and strand of genetic material (DNA and RNA) in every cell of every organism on the planet. However, there is plenty of nitrogen available and organisms (including fish) have no problem finding sufficient nitrogen in easily usable forms. There's generally some nitrogen left over and (in land animals) that is excreted in the form of uric acid (urea AKA pee-pee). However, fish do something very different, they excrete an amide called glutamine from their gills. The glutamine is hydrolized in water to produce glutamic acid and ammonia. ( http://www.elmhurst....3ureacycle.html). The appropriate reactions are: Glutamine (aq.) + H20 --> glutamate+ + NH4+, Glutamate + H+ --> glutamic acid, (http://www.biochemj....395/0710395.pdf) Now for the not so chemically literate that means that as glutamine is ejected from fish, it reacts with water to form glutamate ion and ammonium ion. The glutamate then reacts with hydrogen ions to form glutamic acid. Other bacteria (called decomposers) also contribute to the nitrogen load of the aquarium. Uneaten food, fish poop, decaying plants, heck, even fish scales, are all consumed (slowly) by bacteria. This process releases ammonia. Note for freshwater aquariests: It is true that plants will uptake ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites. This paper gives a lengthy discussion of the topic (http://www.hort.purd...ake/nu00001.htm) However, there is some blockage of the uptake of one form of nitrogen for others (some plants like ammonia, while some prefer nitrites). Also, the pH is an important moderator for the uptake of these nutrients into plants. The following discussion will note that the change of one form of nitrogen to another produces an acidic environment. Here's where the bacteria get started (see chart above). First bacteria that nitrify ammonium for their energy source (generally of Nitrosomonas or Nitrosococcus genus (at least for aquariums)) do the following: NH3 + O2 + 2H+ + 2e− → NH2OH + H2O (1.1) NH2OH + H2O → NO−2 + 5H+ + 4e− (1.2) What this means that the bacteria use a small amount of energy (2 electrons) and two hydrogen ions to create ammonium hydroxide and water. Then they convert the ammonium hydroxide into nitrite (NO2-), 5 Hydrogen ions, and more energy (4 electrons). It's not very efficient, but it's enough for these bacteria to live on. Note that there are 5 hydrogen ions produced for every 2 ions used... this increases the acidity of the water. Now the nitrifying bacteria that work on nitrites go to work. These are generally Nitrobacter (freshwater and marine) or three other genuses in marine environments. They do the following: NO−2 + H2O → NO−3 + 2H+ + 2e− (2) Basically, these are taking the nitrites and hydrolysing it to form nitrates, 2 more hydrogen ions and 2 electrons for the energy. Again, more hydrogen ions making the water more acidic. This is where the nitrogen cycle in freshwater takes generally stops. These reactions take place in the presence of oxygen. Freshwater aquariests rarely go any further with this because the equipment necessary to create an anaerobic environment for the denitrifying bacteria is rare, expensive, homemade, or not needed because water changes are easier to do. For the marine types, we'll take it one step further. The bacterial species Thiobacillus denitrificans, Micrococcus denitrificans and the genus Pseudomonas use oxygen as a terminal electron receptor which is why it must be in an anaerobic (without oxygen) environment. If there is oxygen, then even these bacteria don't really do what they are supposed to (at least for us). In marine tanks, an anaerobic environment is found deep in the pores of the live rock and deep under the sand (lower than about 3-4 inches) which is why a 6 inch sand bed is recommended. Note that any flow to an area renders this chemical reaction impossible (by pumping in oxygen) so there are no filters that can allow nitrifying bacteria to grow and flourish. The chemical reaction in these bacteria is as follows: 2NO3- + 10e- + 12H+ → N2 + 6H2O This is a good thing and what we want to happen. This reaction (and our friends the bacteria) convert the toxic (see below) nitrogen compounds back into gaseous nitrogen that has no effect on our tank. Note the use of large numbers of hydrogen ions in this reaction. However, remember the above reactions, this only removes the hydrogen ions generated from the nitrite to nitrate step. Also, something to keep in mind, cyanobacteria (often wrongly called an algae) does the reverse of this and converts gaseous nitrogen back into ammonium or one of the nitrogen species for use by itself and/or plants or true algaes. So if you have a cyano outbreak, all the nitrifying and denitrification bacteria in your tank are just barely keeping up. This paper is critical for our discussion: https://kb.osu.edu/d.../OH_WRC_490.pdf It describes the toxicity of various nitrogen products to the common guppy (Poecilia reticulus). {NOTE: This paper also describe the problems the researchers had in keeping the ammonia levels constant in the tanks as evaporation of the water caused the ammonia concentration to increase by 5% over four days. The tests also observed a change in pH from 7.5 to 6.9 in four days.} The final results are that 1.26mg of ammonia per liter has a LD50. That's lethal dose 50%... or the level at which 50% of the fish will die. 199 mg/L of nitrate will do the same thing. That's within a three day time frame. When ammonia and nitrate are both present, LD50 occurs when the the concentrate of ammonia is .5mg/L and nitrate is 30mg/L at the same time. Just because most Americans aren't familiar with the metric system... a grain of rice weighs between 20-30 milligrams. A ten gallon tank is roughly 30 liters. So if there's the equivalent of a grain of rice worth of nitrate in the water and one/sixtieth of a grain of rice worth of ammonia is in the tank, then 50% of the fish will probably die. So for the freshwater guys, water changes are a must. For the Saltwater group, water changes (for nitrogen and compounds) can be reduced significantly because of the availability of anaerobic environments in our sandbed and live rock (both in the tank and in sumps/refugiums). Please note that over time, the bacteria can grow and cause congestion in these areas such that nitrate removal is reduced. This is anecdotal as I have not seen any research on this topic.
  14. Hi guys, So I'm noticing that I've got bubbles forming in the tank now that I've added fish and the bubbles are staying on the surface. So, I guess it's time to add a skimmer. I need one that is HOB and has the pump on the outside of the tank (not hanging on the inside). This would be for a 45G pent tank with a pair of clowns, two yellow gobies, and a tail-spot blenny (plus assorted corals). Thanks
  15. Are these shipped to individuals or to one person and we'll have to pick them up?
  16. OK, I'm trying fish one more time. If it doesn't work, I don't know what else to do. Different source this time. We bought a pair of Ocellaris clowns and a pair of yellow clown gobies. I also got a frag of an acropora of some type. Pics forthcoming.
  17. OgreMkV

    Wanted SPS

    OK. What's 'digi'?
  18. OgreMkV

    Wanted SPS

    I just got my LEDs going so I want to try adding another SPS to my tank. I've got a birdsnest and it's doing fantastic. I have a Coralife 20" PC fixture with a new bulb (less than a month old). It's 96W and has both actinic and 10K parts of the bulb (one of the 4 part bulbs, 2 actinic, and 2 10K). I would probably be interested in trading my two leathers (on one rock) for some kind of SPS as well. I'll get a picture up shortly. Let me know what you have available. Thanks Kevin
  19. Wow. These lights are great... not sure if it's the power, the color spectrum, the intensity, or what, but the corals are obviously much happier. My Armor-of God zoas have fully opened for the first time in months. The Eye-of-Ra zoas are doing the same. I accidentally hit the leather with a 30W and it sucked in super fast. I moved the lights and it's already back up. The LEDs are not actually dimmable. The programming is based on the timee and their are three choices (all off, blues on, whites on). Right now, my PCs were running from 11:00A to 9:30P. The LEDs are set to the following: blues on at 10:30 whites on at 12:00 whites off at 17:00 blues off at 18:30 That's five hours of white and 8 of blue (420-470nm). I was thinking about getting a full glass top for the tank, but I'm going to wait as the plastic top that's on now may be helping attenuate the intensity of the LEDs.
  20. This unit is the G1 maxspect 160W. The G1s are basically old models and no longer available, so I got it much cheaper. The G2s have the same wattage, but have three timers (you can fire the twin 30s seperately from the other whites and blues). The G2s also come with 4 1W violet moon lights. Does anyone have a suggestion for light cycle times? I was thinking of running the blues for 9 hours and the whites for 7 or so and see what happens. I am very nervous about killing off the lower light corals. I can't move many of them because they are pretty well attached. Thanks for the help. Kev
  21. I just got home from a business trip and the lights cam in at the same time I was flying out. So here's the first pics. no real review yet except this seems like a solid piece of equipment. There's really no 'cheap feeling from anything here. I will say that this is G1, not the G2. So I don't have moonlights (no big deal) and there's no separate programing for the pair of 30W LED floods. On the other hands, shipped, this units was less than $500. And a rough time between LED replacement of 24 months is pretty impressive. The lighting unit is actually much smaller than the 20" PC fixture it will replace and much lighter too. The LEDs are very thin and the rest of the unit is a pair of fans and a HUGE aluminum heat sink. THe powersupply and programmer are a separate unit. On to the pics unboxing (mounting rails on top, side attach rails already on unit., hanging gear in bag, power supply on left) the lights themselves (the big panels are the 2 30W whites, the others are half blues and half whites) Tank with current 96W PC (dual actinic and 10K) fixture Tank with LEds (whites and blues)... there is a noticable shimmer in the water column and these pics really do not show the glowing of the corals. Even the mushrooms are glowing (well, some of them). ♠ Tank with just blues
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