Crab Rangoon

Nice, their Sulfur version looks like the same layout & design as the Korallin Biodenitrator. The only benefit I can see to going with the MWA version instead is that it's about $25 cheaper than the Korallin, and offers a $20 discount if you can 'name-that-movie' or offers a $50 donation to your local marine club (hint hint!) if specified upon placing an order. Looks like I'll be ordering one soon, as using something I have to feed/dose is just out of the question for my application, and they seem really match the product I'd already planned on ordering in the first place. My friend has been using one for about 1 year now, and absolutely loves it. He was changing his water about once per 12-15 days, but eventually wound up with a rather sizable skimmer, kalk reactor, and calcium reactor on the tank, and eventually was only changing the water to keep up with the waste levels. After adding this, he only changes about once a month, and it's thriving more than ever & any detectable phosphates have pretty much disappeared. I do not encourage the use of this for trying to numb your need for water changes, as anyone experiencing true issues with frequent/fast rising nitrites or nitrates should really get to the core of their problem.. but with a long term system, these are very functional at keeping your moderate/low nitrates practically eliminated.

Had you considered the nitrate reactor made by Korallin?

Hrm, would really like to see a pic for scale - really looking for something that's between 12-24" long, or otherwise something with like 11-15" height I'm not putting exact shape/dimensions into the conquest, but I definitely need something that takes up some real estate - the tank is certainly spacious. I've even tried outsourcing this as far as friends in Houston w/offers for them to drive down Space & funds will certainly permit for a rock in the 20-40lb range, I believe my current biggie is somewhere in the 40-60lb range I was just trying to be conservative when initially asking for something around 15-20lb for starters - but I'd still like to get an idea for how big you piece is, Hamp.

I'd be interested depending on it's size/shape - any way you could post a pic of the rock (in the tank, obviously, don't go pullin it out just for a snapshot) as well as a full tank shot to get a sense of size? I'd appreciate it for sure. I already have some zoas/shrooms on some of my other rocks, so that's alright with me.

So I've got one LARGE piece of liverock already, and a load of other medium/good sized pieces - but I really don't care much for smaller stuff so what I need is cured real liverock, no aquacultured/man-made stuff, even if it's been in your tank for 1-2yrs - do not want. Not looking for branch rock, but other Tonga rock is ok w/me! Your rock could even have a few Aiptasia/Mojano freebies, and I won't mind but Xenia/GSP rock is an absolute deal breaker. All in all, I could really use either ONE big piece (think 18-30lb) or TWO larger (say 12-17lb each) pieces. I'm a sucker for fewer, larger rocks comprising my display. As much as I'm able & willing to construct my own larger arrangements with the zip-ties & acrylic rods project I started tinkering with - I would just much prefer to start with large stuff from the get go for my main structure. In the end, I can offer you straight cash, or I can propose a trade of some of my rock + cash. All my rock is many a year old - and has no need to cure and I would absolutely LOVE to trade some of my branch type stuff for your non branch, but it's not necessary. Please let me know what you've got, I probably only have about one more week *fingers crossed* before I finally set the rock in the tank, and it shall forever hold it's peace.

You can also change over to shooting in RAW mode, instead of JPEG. This will allow you to set the white balance yourself, as needed (I often don't have to) once the pictures are extracted to your computer. I can't remember the last picture I didn't shoot in RAW

Is yours submerged 6", 7", 8"? And are you talking about an XP cone, or the SWC?

I agree, and the final settings will really boil down to user preference on wet vs dry skimmate.

If you're upgrading by adding T5's or VHO's to the current rig, I would consider the following: - you can use whiter MH bulbs with better spectrum for growth & a brighter illumination of the aquarium, but you will want to offset it by focusing on a well rounded array of actinic bulbs. - alternatively, using a 50/50 or 60/40 mix on the blue vs white spectrum on your non-MH bulbs will allow for you to substitute a 12-20k MH bulb, and being able to run the MH for fewer hours - meaning your bulbs will last many months longer down the road, and your tank may not peak at temps anywhere near needing a chiller. If you are setting it up with growth-purpose halide bulbs, you'll want them on for 6-7hrs a day for sure, but if you went with the latter, you could easily run the MH for a 3.5-4.5hr window every day, with the other lighting on for the remainder of your photo period. This would save you on heat, electricity, and stretch out the bulbs life (in # of months) all while giving you the spectrum/colors/growth you're wanting (so long as the bulb combo is right). I'd say you're well set with the pair of 150's, as long as you choose your other bulbs wisely for whatever it is you're trying to do.

Don't forget the XP-2000SSSS - it's already available, and has the pump enclosed in the bottom of the cone as well. In a week or two I'm supposed to come into my XP-2000 or XP-3000, whichever I go with will be an internal model though - not external. My friend has been running his XP-3000 for a whole 7 days now, and has been impressed from the start - and he's running it on a 90gal. All he has to compare it to is his old EuroReef RS-100 or RS-135, I forget. He bought the Octopus for his upcoming transition into a 185.

This, and Lugols, are all I have experience with using first hand. I suggest PCC over a batch of Lugols water, though. Everything I've read as of late points directly to this, and only this. Certainly worth a shot - even seen people doing this with AEFW's. adding an external source for more info, to save me from citing hear-say: http://www.cmas-md.org/forums/showthread.php?t=63585

I would only consider T5 or LED sources for lighting on that size tank. There is no reason to up your electricity usage & heat output via the halide on that size of tank with all the other options that exist. I don't bash halides, and there will be other members able to post about their experience with a MH on a smaller tank - but the experience varies greatly from person to person based upon the product, the height at which it's mounted, the idle temperature of their home, and the other equipment they are using. For an LED option, consider the 21w PAR38 socket lamps w/LEDs & optics fitted to them that are being offered as of late. You'd easily get by with running 2-3 of those. T5 wise, a set of 4 would be much better for focus on SPS, but if you're simply doing a mixed reef and trying your hand at incorporating some SPS (as opposed to SPS dominant tanks, or focusing on Acro varieties specifically) I'd say you should start with Montipora & Pocillopora varieties first, which will do well in both 2 or 4 bulb lighting conditions. Hope that helps.

Agreed, we're pretty competitively priced, too I would say DSA's customer service has been spotty, but at one time they were definitely my favorite company to deal with, because of their pricepoint competitively matching other companies, with the quality being much higher. The DSA Neo 90 is a KILLER tank, and is the tank I almost ordered for myself. It is also roughly the dimensions you stated you wanted, but glass instead of acrylic. Also, it's a standard aquarium, rather than custom, so it's typically in stock. They are priced rather well, in my opinion, so on that note, what sort of ballpark were these CL & AI custom tanks being quoted?

nice Joculator

You should also adjust your lighting to be, perhaps, about half of what it currently is. This will help avoid (or minimize) any possible algae outbreak, or temperature swing while you're gone. You might also adjust your skimmer (if you have one) to a lower level inside the neck, this way you don't wind up overfilling the skimmate cup and having it spill into your tank if you don't have an overflow reservoir rigged up. Changing your home's thermostat to be a lot less "comfortable" while you're gone is OK, as long as you keep it within reasonable parameters for the aquarium. This is another reason why adjusting lights to be on for a minimum number of hours may aid the tank's stability while you're out of town.

If this is for your 20gal, the PAR38 and MR16 would both do very nicely. As far as I know, neither of them are available locally, yet (heck, the MR16 hasn't even launched yet) - but I think a local store may be working on getting some of the PAR38's on their shelves in April.

If you want a Tunze Wavebox, I would go with the standard size, as the Nano is going to be too small to power a 6' tank. The make/break decision between Wavebox & Vortech will essentially boil down to: - which is more affordable over-all? - which is more aesthetically pleasing for my aquarium? The Wavebox, in a longer/skinnier tank, can really eat up some visual room, and some people do not like that. Alternatively, if your 6' tank is pretty packed full of rocks, a single Vortech MP40 would be "enough" to power the aquarium, but may not meet your expectations of a full wave through the tank. The Vortech is certainly smaller and more appealing overall when it comes to visuals, but you may find that running a pair of MP20's in sync (one on each end) is a better option for the wave you're seeking. Once that is sorted out, you may even change your mind again when comparing the price of a single Wavebox vs 2 Vortech's. You should also know that both of those units are famous for not only the waves they produce, but the minimal/zero amount of heat they add to the water & low energy ratings for efficiency (especially when compared to larger pumps that may add similar amounts of gph to the tank). The older, original Vortech models were known to be noisier than desired, but the volume the motor makes now is vastly improved compared to those of years ago, and noise is not an issue at all IMO - not to mention the newest ones are now including the new EcoSmart controller. Both are great products, hopefully you get to enjoy one in your tank in the near future

May I suggest you look into Basslets, instead? Obviously you quickly realized that Groupers are sort of a no-no with smaller fish / reef environments, but if you like the shape & behavior, you should know that many of the Basslets behave much like tiny Groupers (Assessors & Grammas aside, that is).

Ambient light from a neighboring aquarium should be more than enough from the get-go I typically had it away on it's own, only receiving artificial lighting if we were in the room w/the light on. Otherwise, it was dimly lit when the room had sunlight coming through the window, but that's it. If you're going to fix a canopy, or cover, for the QT I would suggest only setting up a single mini-LED moonlight type piece (3/4w - NOT the 1w units w/reflector) per 10-20g of volume. This would not be so bright that it should startle the fish when turning it off/on, and should be both bright enough and an attractive color for viewing your fish inside (and did I mention cheap? haha).

Please be sure to provide the fish with either varied/large PVC fittings (like elbows & couplers) or at least a couple terracotta pots to take refuge in. The emptier the tank, the less secure the fish will feel & behave, causing more stress and higher probability of disease. And definitely don't over-light the tank, I have never used anything but ambient light via room light fixtures and windows, but I've had the best luck with putting fish away in a busy/full interior that is dimly lit so they can have as calm & comfy a quarantine as possible.

I suggest most people leave the tank alone, and even look at it as little as possible for the first 10-12 days - the more you look at it, the less patient you get, and the dirtier you accuse the tank of being Having light algae like this coat your glass is pretty much to be expected within the first couple weeks of starting up, and another one or two rounds of algae will sweep the tank over within the next weeks to month - especially if using lights over the tank before the initial cycle has kicked. But remember, just because you don't have any negative results when testing your water does NOT mean you are not experiencing / have already experienced a full cycle. It'll all be cleaner soon, and just be sure not to jump the gun on adding any clean-up crew, we'd hate for you to experience an ammonia spike from critter loss.

Once you go beyond a 24" width/depth, believe me, you'll never want to go back. The large footprint & rather shallow height of it leave it pretty impressive, really makes the tank look a lot more panoramic. I really encourage the 60x30 floor plan over the typical 72x24 - especially side by side, it'll leave the 6-footer looking real bland. If not going peninsula, I really hope you're at least still getting 3 viewable panes out of the deal - giving up a 30" viewing glass is a really raw deal I'm currently brainstorming our entire living room layout JUST to pull off 3 viewable sides on my tank this weekend. Finally, you will not regret going with the NEO 185, in the event you've never seen a standard 185 from them, the glass braces are enormous - no joke. Throwing a set of 2 (or 3 smaller) Vortech units, or a Wavebox if you prefer, would really set it off, as powerhead varieties will struggle a lot more when dealing with that width.

Kevin, are these dimmable via programming, or only from manual input via the controls on the power source? If you can have them swell/ramp up with timing, then I would have a different suggestion from just plain "off & on" time suggestions. Assuming it's just off or on, I'd go with 7hrs white and 8-9hrs blue to begin with, you can always adjust it later. You want to make sure that you mimic pretty darn near whatever photo period of each light type you were already using with the PC's, though, to begin. Once the corals have adjusted to the same light period with the new light over the course of 4-6 days, then I would suggest altering your exposure times. Also, I wouldn't really worry about the corals not doing so well from the new light - it really does put out a lot more light and provide a much better spread (with no hot-spots, to boot) than the PC's originally did. You definitely want to be weary of immediately providing longer periods of light with the new brighter unit, or else you might stress the corals out and lose color for a bit. Once they've all adjusted, and you've sorted out your photo periods, I'm sure everything will be fine AND looking/growing improved

Precision Marine also makes a skimmer that is modeled after / designed similar to the Euro Reef RS line, in all the same sizes too - they just happen to be more local & more affordable If you're going with a 185g tank, I would consider the RS180 or RS250 - it's really up to you whether you want a larger body & pump than what is "recommended" for your tank from the manufacturer. There are a lot of other options outside this brand & design, but if you like what you've got, and would prefer to stick to it, the ER or PR 180 & 250 are the models I'd look at.

They aren't well known for being grazers, since they primarily dine on suspended plankton & such. I've run into a few that began nibbling on coral, and they weren't easily weaned off, and were eventually removed (none in my personal tank, though). What do you feed, anyway? Sometimes, fish will be enticed to nip at a coral because it is feeding, and has polyp extension to better grab food. On LPS, and some softies, this will involve chunks of food sticking to them & fish will go after eating the food the coral has grabbed - but on SPS (since they don't grab "chunks" of food during polyp extension) it's typically because of the slimey/mucous type film on the outside of the coral.