Crab Rangoon

I'm looking to buy a few leather corals. I would prefer they were not frag size, hopefully already 2"+, but if you have a good deal on a frag I may take you up on it anyway. I'm looking for the following: - Fiji Yellow Leather - Tonga Yellow Leather - ORA Green Toadstool - Tyree Green Toadstool Here are some visual examples (none of which are mine) You can PM or e-mail (oovwoo at gmail dot com) me for quickest response - thanks!

If these two are available, and you could bring them to RCA tomorrow, I'd gladly buy them. If Chris follows through on the CP Monti, I'd still take just the Franken by itself. I'll be there from 12-6pm.

If you add the Berghia, please make sure to do one/both of the following: 1) turn some of your bigger powerheads off 2) dial large powerheads down I've had far too many friends and customers purchase & acclimate them, only to have them get vaporized by a Tunze/VorTech/MaxiJet/Korallia That being said, if you purchase the Berghia, do be sure to get an adequate number of them for your size aquarium. It should be pretty easy to resell them to somebody else after you're done, to ensure they keep doing their job & do not starve to death. There is always somebody in town with Aiptasia who could benefit from helping the little guys food supply, and help you recoup some of your cost

I can vouch for him trading the rock in on Sunday, I saw it happen

is that smallest/front-most piece one of the AAF rainbow pieces?

Na, not bleached, we got those in on Sunday from a friend of mine - he has a plump colony of them in his tank, and brings a 1-3 plugs of them by every few weeks. They've been growing under an 8-lamp TekLight for a long time now, so rest assured that while color may vary based upon your lighting, these aren't bleached

Count me in - I can hold off on my filter socks for this.

I hate to be a naysayer, as it's entirely possible that by some sort of accident the power could go out for a whole day, or more. But I can't honestly imagine it happening for days on end, as stated. I've lived here for 20+ years and not once had my power go out for more than a few hours - THANKFULLY! In a power outage concerning my livestock's well-being, I'd have to just borrow one of our generators from my workplace, though.

Dang, that's across the street from my house. I'd love to know the next time you're running up to town and are fraggable - I definitely caught the thread a day too late. I could meet you at the Dome if you wanted, or if you come up on a Sunday you know I'll be at River City

Let me start with referencing a post from John Coppolino who might as well be an F'n wizard at successfully keeping fish - if you haven't read up on him, followed his tanks/expeditions/experience, there is a LOT of insightful stuff to read. You can read the entire post, and much more about his QT banter starting about here: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=13954917#post13954917 & http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13940800&postcount=115 Typically the most sound/efficient way to maintain the QT is to fill it with water from your display, and when doing water-changes, continue using water from your display tank. This will in turn make for very small but frequent changes on your DT - but ensures that the water you're using in the QT is definitely mixed & primed beyond necessity. I also see no reason to use standard salinity in the QT - running a mild hyposalinity is easier as you'll be mixing less saltwater per water-change (say a 2:1 or 3:1 saltwater:RO/DI ratio), and will be just-as-good if not better for QTing & medicating a fish. I would maintain it with Cupramine for sure, but you don't have to stop there.. You could go the extra mile and run Formalin, or Prazi - and once the fish is readily feeding, you could also soak the food in some Metronidazol as a preventive for 3-4 days; but this is more than some people will want to mess with :shrug: Oh, and make sure you don't put the QT on the floor it'll compound the PITA-factor of removing the water for water-changes due to zero gravity feed for a hose, and I don't recommend using a pump to do it (just personal preference). Hope that helps!

Coming from someone who's had ich on 95% of the fish I've introduced to my current tank, I can say that ich is MOST prominent in the morning. The only time any of my affected specimens "look bad" is bright & early in the morning. By the time I get home from work they've had 4 feedings & have been swimming around for 9-10 hours, and have cleared up to very minor/minimal ich coverage.

This is absolutely true, and I don't (currently) really flinch when my fish have ich, as 99% of the fish I get are very finicky - if not difficult - fish. This is true of tangs, too, and while it's suggested to add many of them early on, before allowing any dominance to set in - you're much better off quarantining before adding to a display. I get 99.9% of all my fish directly from the shipping box, while I know this isn't an option available to everyone, it's certainly the easiest on the fish. My method is to acclimate the fish to the tank from the shipping bag, and introduce it to my refugium - which I use more as a QT than a fuge. I'm obviously not quarantining effectively for viruses/disease this way, but I'm definitely able to let the fish get it's wits about it as it finishes adjusting to my water parameters, and I can focus on feeding it. Only once I've had a QT fish taking well to at least two kinds of food, and typically pretty warmed up to the net/syringe as it's food source, do I introduce it to the aquarium. Introducing new additions directly to the display is a lot more risky for the health of the new fish, more than the health of your current fish. A new specimen can suffer in the DT since it's not in the pecking order of your current fish come feeding time - and will often be a bit crypic/less active, and won't feel confident about picking up food quite yet. I'm taking it one step further, and am going to rig a clear box up so that I may introduce the new specimen to the aquarium without letting any aggression play out. After being seen by the current fish for 2-3 days like that, I'll feel even more confident about it's journey into my tank being a safe one without issues. Hope that helps, and that your next Tangs pull through better!

Like I said, only two of the lights are turned on here. I'll tinker more tonight and see if there's anyway for me to use all 6 lamps and have a pic turn out, but so far I've tried and none of them are satisfactory.

Thanks I'm working on the full tank & lighting rig shots right now, I should be able to post em before dinner. I have a 36x36 panel of plywood that I've mounted the light tracks & Stunner Strips to. We branched a pair of 1x2" planks across 3 studs in the ceiling, at the front and back of the tank - then I installed hooks into the planks and have the plywood hung with Sunlight Supply Pro-Grip suspension kit for easy raising & lowering at each corner. I'll find out soon enough about the coral colors and growth I couldn't tell you anything about the coraline algae, though - I've only had the lights mounted since last Friday! All said & done, until I have some corals truly DEMANDING this much light.. this is absolute overkill. On a daily basis, I run only 2 of my PAR38's, and that would truly be enough if I were to stay FOWLER I will eventually re-aim and angle my lighting based upon where I'm mounting corals, and I might end up not even using all 6 after all. The PAR38's run about $100/ea if ordering 5+, and I've got about $100 thrown in all together for the plywood, track lighting, suspension kits, and acrylic panels to house the lighting. I can indeed make waves with the MP40, but most of the time I have it on a more energy conscious setting. I also moved the unit further towards the corner where my auto-feeder sits, so the waves aren't as prominent as they were when the unit was centered on the back wall. After introducing a handful of coral, I'll probably change the settings again, and relocate it as necessary.

Who's FTS? That group of anemones in the tank is nuts. Are the 3rd and 4th pics of yours, and only the blue one © is available?

It'll certainly be a threat to any worms, or things resembling worms (I'd be very weary of things like Dendros/Duncans, but not Euphillia). But that Butterfly wound up jumping, oddly enough (they're not known jumpers, and he was a happy settled specimen ), and since they are only available for a very short time each year, I wasn't able to replace it I look forward to picking up a Chelmon Muelleri & Chelmon Marginalis, which are the most similar to the Altivelis that I'll be able to get for a while, but both of those are still scarce at this time. Last week I added two standard Pyramid Butterflies (Hemitaurichthys polylepis), and am anticipating adding 1-2 Zoster, and a single Yellow Zoster.

...and one month later, I've found that I'm not very good at taking timely update photos Finally got all my lighting set-up, stand enclosed, and supplies for enclosing my lighting. Also turned the temp from 74 up to 76 temporarily, and realized I need to re-glue my plumbing for the UV (or continue suffering a creeping slow drip ). Also planning to install the new reflectors for all the Stunner Strips, and add one more each of UV & 453nm Stunners. Eye candy time (first fish pics w/the new camera + lens)

Yep, I know the process and all, and the reason the "most affordable" place won't do it is because they don't like having to zinc-plate the aluminum first, to get the copper to adhere. I tried reasoning that I'm still triple plating: zinc - copper - nickel! Shouldn't be any more work than the standard triple plating of chrome, but they said they just deny all aluminum jobs I think my best bet will just work out to be powdercoat, there's certainly no reason to go another route instead, unless I just wanted to gut my bank account more for the hell of it. I can achieve a polished nickel or dark chrome looking effect with powdercoat, so I have decided to quit messing around. Also, my wheels are 3pc rims, and WOULD actually be reasonable for plating in a shallow bath, given I only truly need the face/spokes + lip done Maybe you'd like to nickel-plate 132 bolts for me, instead?

Mikey, lemme know when you're ready to plate some larger stuff I sent out to 4 different places to get quotes on getting the face & lip of my 16" wheels plated, and each came back with about $1200-1400 quotes. Needless to say, I passed. Sad thing is, nickel plating is one step away from chroming, and I know a chroming joint that would have only charged me $800ish if they just weren't aluminum...

Yep, the PPM readout has been available, but I haven't yet seen the PPB in stock anywhere. PPM available here: http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=251_307_309&products_id=6321&osCsid=ab31c20046046eb09af111eb27830b2b

Yeah, URI became UVL - but their SuperActinics are all the same, and just as good as ever

Pretty similar to the care needs of a gorgonia - it's an azoo coral, and they outline it's needs pretty well on the sale/item page. See http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/ItemDisplay.cfm?c=2733+6&ddid=91336&cm_sp=rss , http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/ItemDisplay.cfm?c=2733+6&ddid=91238&cm_sp=rss for reference

On the contrary, one could run a nitrate reactor to keep the waste side of things in check, and simply keep up with the water changes on a monthly basis to replenish all sorts of other nutrients which would are regularly used up by your invertebrates (assuming you're dosing calcium as needed). Just presenting another option that is often overlooked.

Divers Den is updated about once every 24hrs and has been Spiral crazy for the past week or so. That's really the only place I see them come up, though.

I was surprised with the UV strips - as they are not blinding to the eye, or even a real light-source over the tank. I got my Stunner strips yesterday, and immediately did a photo test with them - they're definitely a pleasant surprise.