Crab Rangoon

Yep, I know the process and all, and the reason the "most affordable" place won't do it is because they don't like having to zinc-plate the aluminum first, to get the copper to adhere. I tried reasoning that I'm still triple plating: zinc - copper - nickel! Shouldn't be any more work than the standard triple plating of chrome, but they said they just deny all aluminum jobs I think my best bet will just work out to be powdercoat, there's certainly no reason to go another route instead, unless I just wanted to gut my bank account more for the hell of it. I can achieve a polished nickel or dark chrome looking effect with powdercoat, so I have decided to quit messing around. Also, my wheels are 3pc rims, and WOULD actually be reasonable for plating in a shallow bath, given I only truly need the face/spokes + lip done Maybe you'd like to nickel-plate 132 bolts for me, instead?

Mikey, lemme know when you're ready to plate some larger stuff I sent out to 4 different places to get quotes on getting the face & lip of my 16" wheels plated, and each came back with about $1200-1400 quotes. Needless to say, I passed. Sad thing is, nickel plating is one step away from chroming, and I know a chroming joint that would have only charged me $800ish if they just weren't aluminum...

Really good price, and brighter than anyone will expect them to be makes me wish I needed more LED's over mine

Did you already contact Hydro Innovations about this? He mentioned he'd like to purchase it from you.

Yep, the PPM readout has been available, but I haven't yet seen the PPB in stock anywhere. PPM available here: http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=251_307_309&products_id=6321&osCsid=ab31c20046046eb09af111eb27830b2b

Yeah, URI became UVL - but their SuperActinics are all the same, and just as good as ever

I wouldn't necessarily jump straight to only NB Biopellets - Warner Marine, Two Little Fishies, and at least one other US-based brand now has the same product, just offered for a much lower price. I bought the Warner Marine ecoBAK pellets myself, you can read more specifically about their use & others experiences here: http://www.3reef.com/forums/general-reef-topics/my-warner-marine-ecobak-journey-89093.html & http://www.alexreef.com/news/warner-marine-ecobak-biopellets-solid-vodka-dosing Hope that helps.

Nice - I happen to only live a few miles away I have next weekend off, and would really like to see/pick up your yellow leather. I know you said the fish aren't coming out til next week, but just let me know what evenings would be good to come check out that leather.

Pretty similar to the care needs of a gorgonia - it's an azoo coral, and they outline it's needs pretty well on the sale/item page. See http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/ItemDisplay.cfm?c=2733+6&ddid=91336&cm_sp=rss , http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/ItemDisplay.cfm?c=2733+6&ddid=91238&cm_sp=rss for reference

On the contrary, one could run a nitrate reactor to keep the waste side of things in check, and simply keep up with the water changes on a monthly basis to replenish all sorts of other nutrients which would are regularly used up by your invertebrates (assuming you're dosing calcium as needed). Just presenting another option that is often overlooked.

Divers Den is updated about once every 24hrs and has been Spiral crazy for the past week or so. That's really the only place I see them come up, though.

I was surprised with the UV strips - as they are not blinding to the eye, or even a real light-source over the tank. I got my Stunner strips yesterday, and immediately did a photo test with them - they're definitely a pleasant surprise.

I keep my heater stuck to 75, and my tank hangs out around 74-76 luckily. We keep our AC set to 80 for most daylight hours, and 78 at night - but it's probably going to come down some in the near future. I have a strong preference for deepwater fish, which don't take well to being introduced into tanks over 76 degrees, and typically come from places as cold as 68-70, but usually 70-74. I've built my tank around this concept, making sure all my equipment (lights, pumps, everything) is as energy efficient as I could afford - which in turn transfers little to no added heat to the system. Mike is right though, stability is key to longevity & health of your organisms. Temperature swings of approximately 2-3 degrees are to be expected. If you're experiencing more than 3 degrees, you may consider trying to raise your low end by a degree or two (so long as it keeps you from prolonged periods above 80-81), or look into a means of cooling the tank / exhausting some of the heat.

Drat

I'd asked this via voicemail & PM. I just assume that either Danny, or the fish, are not available?

Clint lives South now? Man, I been gone too long! Wish I were ready to take on some of the undata & confusa

Is this the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gen of the fixture? They changed optics, as well as LED type through production, and specifying may help the sale. These are brighter than most people will expect, I wish more people could see them in person & give them a chance.

Nice deal - if I hadn't just bought another camera I'd be adding it to my current MP40

One rock. One pom-pom crab. Three sexy shrimp. Clump of dragons-breath. Done! Or make it fresh, throw in a few shrimp (amano, or similar) and a pair of thread-fin Rainbows ? Don't forget, a tiny fw tank can have cool inhabitants too

Luckily, your tank was truly just set up, so the existing tangs aren't established and already territorial and dominant. The first month or two of the tank being set-up (as this was a transition from the 90 into the 185, right? Not just a fresh start on a 185 with all brand new liverock?) is your prime opportunity to add the new tangs into the mix. If you're wanting to add a handful of one kind, you definitely wanna drop them in all at once. The longer you wait between adding tangs, the less warm their welcome will be

On this same note, I would never suggest somebody kept a Neon Tetra in any aquarium smaller than 10gal, but that certainly doesn't mean that a 10gal tank can only hold one or two of them. I'm basing my suggestion upon experience both in home and at work - especially as I've kept multiple specimens of the fish in question. If you'll notice, all the fish I'd listed all stay rather small, grow alarmingly slow, and do not swim, much less move very much. I made sure to even suggest sizes at which to purchase them (all of which were at/under 3") in order to make sure they would all make suitable cohabitants, rather than just wind up feeding on one another. I hope that when pointing this out, you can better understand what I was suggesting, rather than simply mis-reading that I wanted him to overstock his tank. Also, for what it's worth, the Leaffish are rather fond of one another, and will stay pretty tight knit most of the time. Having 2 or 3, rather than a single specimen, will certainly have a small change on your bioload, but they really flock together quite well and don't take up extra room. Will, how much rock were you planning to keep in the aquarium? If we're talking a 40 breeder, it's wide and tub-like, rather than long and skinny, and you've got a lot nicer of a footprint for these guys to roam around. I wouldn't stress keeping too much rock, as it will encroach quickly on how much space these fish will have. This sounds like it will be a fish-focused tank, rather than a coral reef type, so I wouldn't worry about having much more than ~25lb of rock. You'll find that having more rock will often mean seeing these fish less so don't give em too much to hide behind!

Over the course of the past 3 weeks, a good amount has changed I've now got the Turbo Twist 12x 36w UV hooked up + QT/refuge area running, and got my Octopus XP2000 skimmer in & running. I've also got some animals but as my temp-use light fixture shorted out on me so no more pics til the new lights arrive & get set-up. Here are a few photos I was able to get while the light was working, however, of my Ruby-headed fairy Wrasse & Altivelis Butterfly The daily feeding of live black worms is becoming tiresome

Yeah, honestly I kept my pair (1.5" + 2.75") in a 12g nano, fed every 3-4 days, and never had any issues with water quality, territorial behavior, or skinny fish You have to consider with these kinds of predators that they have a much slower metabolism & rate of using their energy - because they don't swim around. This means that you can easily get away with feeding only twice a week, keep them happy, and often only need to change the water once a month. For total stock ideas, I'd say you could certainly have 3-4 Leafs (I suggest >2.5-3"), your 4" Wasp, 1 2-3" Ambon, and/or perhaps a FuManchu. You'll see much more interesting behavior exhibited, and maybe even nicer camo patterns, if you stick with using pretty low wattage plain lighting and grow some non-invasive plants. Just an idea, versus plain liverock, or corals (which will be more light than these fish care for).

I agree I've got the Turbo Twist 12X (36w) on my 150g and just finally finished hooking it up yesterday. I've got my valved down quite a bit though, and it's the supply to my refugium, which pretty much only trickles. The slower the flow, the more contact time, the better your UV is doing it's thing. Using a quicker / moderate flow rate, and only kicking it on for a few hours a day isn't really going to get you quick or solid results. Restricting it to 100gph tops + running it for your lighting period (or opposite of it) is my suggestion, if you don't want to run it 100% of the time. This is a touchy subject, that is fairly opinionated. In the sense that the UV will really cut back on any possible algae + fish illness you may have in the tank, and it'll keep your water much more crystal clear than any other method - of course it's better for your coral.

I got mine from a friends refugium, I'm sure if someone doesn't come across this thread reading that you want some, you could post in the WTB/WTT section trying to get some. Only decent photo I found with a quick search was: http://www.wamas.org/forums/uploads/1233516108/med_gallery_2631654_455_16687.jpg It grows slow & steady, and typically does not root to rocks. I have a barebottom tank, so without being able to bury the base/roots of the plant, I just jammed it between two rocks, and it's done perfectly fine. Also, I strongly suggest adding more Leafs to your collection once moved into the breeder tank. Unlike Lions & Anglers, the Leafs will definitely group together, and interact with one another. It's certainly more entertaining (and IMO interesting long term) to have that grouping & behavior, than to focus on having a collection of many different individual specimens - but whatever floats your boat. I know many more people who enjoy their Rhinopias & Taenianotus long term, without losing the initial charm that sparked the purchase, than I know keepers of Angler & Scorp types. Hope that helps.