Bill B

I am and have been looking for a cheap 55 gallon tank and it can be plain and pretty ugly - but must hold water. Don't need a stand, definitely don't need RR, hood and light optional. Anybody got one that's mostly taking up space?

Thanks

Bill

I didn't think it through. The time might be about right BUT I will not be returning to my house for 3 or 4 hours after that. Please PM me with your availability tomorrow.

Thanxx

Bill

When are you going? I have a Pond Society meeting tonite and will be driving right past there, but it will probably be before you get there.

Bill

Hey Belinda

I shoulda asked you if you were sellin' anything else the other day. I would like one of your Joker frags, please. I could probably come by tomorrow if you are available sometime.

Thanks

Bill

Wow - that's a long way from everybody else interested so far.

If that is Catalina Aquariums I would put them in the above average category especially for low cost components. I had a Eheim knockoff canister filter that works good. They were putting out some pond power heads that were not so good a while back. Again, that's if they are Catalina Aquariums.

Workhorse is a good maker of florescent lighting ballasts of all incarnations. Doesn't mean much but I have never heard of them being used for MH.

Bill

I would be in for $15-$20 worth. I would head it up, but I am about the most north of all respondents so far. Also I think Leander is a day later than an Austin address.

Bill

If the 55 'deal' doesn't work out I would like to have it.

Bill

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....how much is the discount ? ?

Thanks

It appeared to me, last order, that the discount was typically whatever it quotes as being "as low as". IF that is the case then the monitors have no discount as they have no lower price quoted. Of course the discounted prices will be clearly shown once you log in Tuesday or later. I think my rule of thumb will help ya make some preliminary plans.

Bill

Alrighty then, let's go for it. I am sending Mark my email and my name in ARC. Remember we need at least people to be in the order but then we can gang up our orders to save a little postage. Anybody in the LCP area wanna go together with me?

Bill

Lamont

Look at little closer. I think most of those are POINT 5 inches. You're right. I don't even really like those type, but I might be buying some if they were 25 sq inches.

Bill

Agree with Tim. You are probably getting substandard performance from the 250 but my guess is it's at least as good as a 150. If it ain't broke....

Thanks Lamont

As best I could find he has a single 15 gallon only, but thanks for the thought.

Bill

The chloramine filter should go between the 3 stage filters and the DI canister. I just installed a new RO/DI with chloramine filter add-on last week, and this is how it came set-up.

So does this mean you have a 6 stage. Bulk Reef definitely has some 5 stage Chloramine filter setups which just have one or two different 'fills' before the RO membrane. Although admittedly uninformed I am surprised they would want the chemicals to hit the membrane first. I tried to call today but went to voice mail the only opportunity I had.

_______

I was under the impression that in the Greater Austin area if you don't have your own well you probably have Chloramines. As ALWAYS seems to be the case there are different opinions on the net as to whether a special filter is required. Strangely the Chloramine refill kits from Bulk RS have different components than the preconfigured canisters are loaded with.

I did search CL today for Food Grade Water Storage and got a 55 gallon for $25. Being it was pretty close that sounded good to me. They had at least 3 different varieties of the 55 gallon.

Bill

Yes you do have the two bulbs labeled correctly and a 250 watt socket. Looks like you have your bulbs mismatched with the ballast and for some reason they still fire. If the amps is 1.8 that means it pulls about 200 watts. It is not unusual for a ballast to use more watts/power than it takes to push the bulb, especially if this is a magnetic ballast. I can't tell you how to identify a magnetic or e ballast except normally the electronic will actually use the words electronic somewhere and magnetic will not say magnetic.

If you are interested I am pretty sure I have a new pair of 150 watt posts I'd sell ya $15. We might have to meet in the middle someplace to get them to you though.

Bill

Ditto on the having asked about them before however one thng not mentioned. I kept mine as they are generally beneficial, HOWEVER especially the redish ones will sting you, so be careful of sifting through the sand, particularly if it is in an out of the way place.

Bill

Thanks Tim

I am still investigating but I can't find any 'instructions' other than essentially how to connect the preconstructed units. Right now, but pending, it looks like they just replace the first carbon block with a 'ChlorPlus' block.

Bill

Thanks for the response Dave

This is a BRS 5 STage Plus. My question #1 is not where to get replacement filter but IF a chloramine filter is required, and if so does it replace a carbon filter or do you have to add another canister/reactor whatever you call it. I think all of our area has chloramines; Leander certainly does.

Bill

I just got my RO/DI system that I swore I never was going to get, but that's an idle hands/idle mind issue. I have a few questions some of you probably know quickly.

1) On looking up various instructions it seems perhaps I should be using a chloramine filter. Is this the case and if so where does it go (= do I need to add another 'canister' or replace the contents of one I have.) It comes with a sediment filter, 2 different carbon filters CTO/2.5 5 micron carbon block and+1 .6 micron carbon block., the RO diaphram and DI chamber.

2) Seems I have seen references to someone in L/CP who sells water storage containers and possibly Coke used to. Where should I look here? First thought is I am probably not looking at anything too big. 30-55 gal.

3) Lastly (for the moment) I assume you pump the water back out of the container for use. How/why does the pump not contaminate the water.

Thanks

Bill

I have had them on and off in both of my tanks. I was told to specifically get a target mandarin and although I never heard of using them I have a 6 line. I have never seen either eating a thing. Admittedly maybe they occasionally do but I have seen the mandarin light right beside a shroom covered with them, peck around the rock they were on and go on. I know Mike DelGado swears by his green coris wrasse - they do get purdy dang large though.

It seems to me they tend to like particular corals with nice flat surfaces. I got rid of most if not all but dipping a big rock that had a bunch of shrooms (and flatworms). Seems I used Hydrogen Peroxide and RO. I also tried Lugols. IIRC the peroxide worked quicker.

Bill

I have about a cubic foot of the blue ones (2-300). I don't know if they are Lee's but that style. You were very generous when I bought frags once so whatever is 'cheap' works for me. I was thinking $10 but if that's not a really good price I'd take even less. Frankly I'd give them to ya, but sure as I did, I'd realize I could use them on one of my 4 FW tanks.

They were out back for a while, so you might have to pick some oak tassels out of some of them. I'd even drop them by if I could do it during the workweek and day.

Just PM me if you want to work something out.

Bill

I'm sure this happens all the time so generic suggestions are fine and appreciated. I'm trying to attach a Maxi Jet 600 to a media reactor that has 'john guess' connections. How do ya do it?

Originally I had it sitting in my sump using a different pump and I just had some vinyl tubing around the output of the pump and input of the reactor. But I want the room back and now need a water tight connection at least on the reactor side. I thought I had a solution by putting the 3/8 inch rigid tubing inside the output tube on the 600 and the reactor is made for this size tubing. I put a little sealant around the tubing to keep it from pulling loose and viooolaa... it works but I think it's the back pressure that is making the pump really rattle. I was also trying to connect an even smaller pump but the tubing was too big to go inside output.

So,,, how is this typically accomplished?

Thanks

Bill

oops double posted

CnB,

If it's not too late I would like to get PHE frag X271 - 29.99

I think this is a great idea. We do something very similar in the Pond Society: there it is pond vacs. I am not ready to be a charter member but I have a 'lil input nonetheless. First I would not let anyone rent it longer than a week unless there were no other renters when it is to be returned. I would impose a fine, perhaps similar to what you have laid out, if someone is waiting to use it, or allow them one additional week at a time, at the regular rate (17.50/wk), if there are no pending users. I have a BIG problem with the 'you break you pay for it policy'. I don't know this equipment but being an electronic piece of equipment being dunked in saltwater, surely the odds of it breaking through proper use increase as it gets older. In the APS we say that you are responsible for repairing or replacing it if there are obvious signs of misuse. Yeah if you return the par meter and it has a big dent in it... well maybe you just bought a par meter. But I would think somewhere along the line it's just gonna quit working properly. Maybe the last guy dropped it on their concrete floor, but it's not untill you handled it a couple times that some loose part inside actually separated. Maybe it is much less obvious than something rattling around inside. Is Shane going to be so enamored with this concept that year in and year out, each and every time not only does he test to make sure that it is working, but also that it is working properly and accurately. I don't know what the answer is. A lower ceiling on the liablilty? ($100). With the pond vacs you are not liable unless there is obvious misuse. The machines have always been rented enough to just buy another one if they stop working properly. AFter almost 4 years not one has just outright broken.... they just quit working the way they should. I doubt that this par meter is a commercial instrument. Do you really know that the expected life of this meter is longer than 42 weeks, especially since each user will probably be using it much more than a single user would 'per use'. (42= 11 charter members 2x, 20 rentals totaling $350). This may be the equivalent of MANY years of typical sporatic use. End of thoughts..

Bill