barderer

excellent.

I will take this.

cool, I can also meet you this weekend at RC if that works for you. Or are you avail weekdays only?

ok how about I meet your employee next Friday 9/24 at RC at the time of his or hers choosing.

hmmm, crap my plane does not get in until 9:50pm on Friday. Could I paypal you the money then we can figure something out? I can do Sat and Sun times for sure.

hydro does the spoken for list include my hold? Or did you get others?

you can also try smaller amount of smaller food. Let him float around and find a spot it likes. Make sure to take dangerous power head out of the tank during this period.

Hydro, I would like one of these as well but can't get it until next weekend. If you can sell it to someone else before then by all means. But just keep me in mind for the next round.

if you want to invest the time to do it in a QT tank then you could try. But I agree with everyone, there is always another "deal"

I would take the hard advice and cut the coral on a healthy spot and start over before you loose the whole colony. Give yourself ample buffer of good tissue as well. So many times I thought I could "save" the colony just to watch it evaporate. Cutting a lot of frags when you first start to see it go is the best method to save it.

N

well when you slack off you have to pay the price.

must be nice to know rich people dumb enough to bill them that rate for THAT work.

I have this process down to an science. For tanks 50 gal and under its a breeze. For larger tanks more money should be invested into the design to avoid having to do this.

1) Remove all infested rocks and throw them in a garbage can or bucket full of fresh salt water and let it sit in the dark for a few weeks. Change the water completely a few times to let all the phosphates leech out. The darkness will also kill off the algae.

1b) Remove existing sand bed, clean and dry and store. Run bare bottom.

2) Siphon out as much algae and grim out of the display and do a large 30% water change.

3) Let the tank sit in darkness for 3 days, covered by a towel.

4) Start a new sand bed in a separate tank and seed it. Let it grow for 2 months.

5) Run a media reactor in the main tank with phosphate absorption material of your choice during this whole process.

7) Replace existing sand bed with new seeded sand bed from step 2.

8) Reduce photo period to 8 hours. (My corals do quite well with the reduced period because there is no "slim" for them to fight)

9) Reintroduce rocks, but elevate the above the sanded with smaller rocks or a pvc framework such that flow can get under the rocks and move the whole sand bed around the tank.

10) Mad flow, madddd floooooooooooooowwwww.

Repeat this process every 9 months. If you keep turning over your sand beds (use the same two beds over and over) you won't have to do the rock step again.

Thanks for the responses. Altex does not carry components anymore.

Ok, this used to be so easy but now its not. Where in town do you guys go to buy bare electrical components. I am looking for some power mosfets. Is there a warehouse that maintains a LARGE inventory?

Thanks,

Nick

if the other acan is like the first one I will take it.

that thing is spectacular. I would want to hold it for 6m to make sure it was real before I paid for it hehe.

according to Aquatek they are still hard to feed because they are so small when they ship them to you.

All Hammer sold. I recommend doing business with Hydro.

N

Salt, Yes I still have them. PM me if interested.

For sale,

Hammer Colonies - $20 each

I have three multi-head colonies available. Large and healthy

Birdsnest colony - $20

$10

$25 4" Palau Nepthea

Where they live.

As usual I am open to trades as well. You can pick up

Tuesday 5PM-8PM

Thursday 5PM-8PM.

Thanks,

Nick

+1 prof. Glass and acrylic don't bond together. And if its 1/4" it must be a turtle tank or something, because that would bust instantly with 220 gal in it.

Johnson Supply = winner. Thanks. Mini fridge repaired.

nice.

Even tanks up to 150 gal would be fine with a simple powerhead mounted at the surface so enough oxygen gets dissolved for the creatures. A deep cycle battery designed to be charged all the way down and up mounted to a controller circuit jacked off a cheap UPS would be ideal. If you really wanted to get the most life out of your battery you could use a DC power head(Tunze) to avoid the costly conversion from DC to AC from your batt via a inverter. A large deep cycle could probably power your power head for days. During the summer this would be more than enough as heat would not really be an issue as you could avoid running your lights and heavy pumps for days and the coral will be just fine. The tank would stay plenty cool just by the top being open to the air. Now in the winter you would need to heat, so for larger tanks you might need a generator, If I ever did a 200+ gal tank I would throw in a generator to the total cost.