barderer

I am surprised no one has suggested this yet but I would clip frags now far away from the RTN zone so you will at least have frags to grow from once this is over. Every time a colony has had RTN and I attempted to "save" it. I would end up loosing the whole colony 9 out of 10.

What Mg product did you use Kent?

Hydro,

You will get a good answer to this by posting on the chemistry section of Reef Central. Lots of good chemists there.

N

Mark,

Most modern routers/firewalls will block incoming port scans and pings to prevent brute force service attacks. To make sure the route to the outside is working you have to first open a port on your computers firewall. So if you have a windows machine either disable your firewall (If you are behind a NAT router you don't REALLY need a firewall on your PC) or open a port on it. Then go in to your router configuration and setup a static entry for your PC's MAC address so your PC will always get the same internal IP address. (I like the previous posters idea about putting the AT router in bridge mode to a real router) Then in your router set it to forward the port you opened on your internal address to the external "WAN" ip address. Your internal network PC should now be open to the outside world on this port. To test this setup a small web server on this port and hit it using your mobile phone http://24.433.44.33(whatever your wan ip is):8888. And you should get your page back. After you have this internal setup done you can THEN install a dynamic dns type client on your host PC that will synchronize your dynamic WAN address to your DNS name http://markstank.dyndns.com etc. Only then will you be fully routed.

Nick

Note PC and tank controller can be swapped in this text. Just make sure you get the MAC address for whatever network device you are using and make a static entry for it on the router.

I would be interested in pods. I thought about a service like this a while ago but have put it on delay as I am looking for a new house. What would make it really epic is if you could get a local high school kid to deliver the bottles for an additional 5 dollar delivery fee. With 10-15 customers he could make a nice profit for a couple of hours of driving on Sunday.

Nick

Yeah if you have a large stable tank these systems can be great. Most people with smaller tanks use water changes to clean rocks and get algae out etc. So as long as you don't have to actually put your hands in your tank a ATO assisted changer is great.

I have the same setup. I do live rock rubble in chamber one, then I use a sponge on the waterfall in chamber two to catch the big stuff. Easier than floss and you just rinse it and put it back in to clean it. Also the top of the sponge being "dry" makes it a great catch all. Chamber two also has a tunze skimmer. Then in chamber three I took out the foam block and put a bag of carbon and phosphate absorption media there. This way the cleanest water is forced through your expensive media. Note: If you do the skimmer option you also will need a auto top off for the system to really work. Even if you don't get a skimmer...get a auto top off, I avoided it for years but ever since I have had one my life is soooooo easy. With this system I often leave my 29 unattended for 2 weeks at a time.

Nick

Any other ideas for a device that can create a very controlled slow slow drip?

Has anyone ever used a IV like setup like this to dose?

http://www.ameds.com/entriflushtm-pump-set-bag-1000-ml-each.html?&extcref=ACSEBIZR001&zmam=77902454&zmas=2&zmac=45&zmap=KND8884773642

These are nice and CHEAP, I wonder if they come with the flow control knob etc.

This is one of the coolest things I have seen in someones home tank. Why would you sell this?

I think people in the club should support people who breed and sell fish like this in a ethical matter. I don't think you should have to become a "sponsor" to sell some clutches of fish? This is not a full blown commercial operation. Breeding fish is normal part of the hobby for advanced aquarist. And this is a forum is about the hobby!...right?

And Michael, put me down for one of those beauties.

I will take 10.

in my 29 cube I siphon off my entire thin sand bed every 6 m and clean all the filth out of it. Then poor it right back in via a tube without even moving the rockwork. It really keeps the algae away. So much nasty out of the sand bed.

Ah looks like you have the kind of peps that actually eat aiptasia. Congrats! Problem is when they run out of their preferred food, they WILL eat other types of corals sometimes.

I applaud your noble effort.

I apologize for being so direct in my original post. Thank you for providing some explanation about your opinion.

cool looking coral. I would be interested in buying a head mike.

Yeah I wonder how the poster who concluded its "garbage" went about making this decision.

You can prove it by having the paper trail that ties you back to the well known original source. Of course, at $70 an inch I would want a DNA profile!

Here are the peps that I KNOW eat the nasties, they also eat the goodies so remove them after they are done.

Lysmata hochi (Can be found all along the southern Texas coast)

Lysmata wurdemanni (Wide range all across Texas and the Caribbean

)

Derek,

its very important you get the right type of pep. Often the ones available to us are not the variety you need. When I get home I will send you pics that will help you identify what type you have. Also, mine only come out at night. That is when they naturally come out in nature as well.

N

it blows my mind that people throw stuff like this away on a daily basis. Good job on being adaptable and recycling all that raw material.

I would think that would be a tad risky to introduce to your reef. I would get some peps from someone that has visited the coast lately. My rate of success with Texas peps is 100%.

As pbnj said the reason its good is because of its capability to grow like mad. So just don't dump it in the ocean like an A%% and all will be good. Put me down for a bag. Or I can trade you some dragons breadth?