DerrickH

Wavebox. I wont by vortecs anymore. They just dont have the power...

I have a quiet one 6000 that you can take for $30. I used it on my 40g but have changed to a true external high pressure pump.

**** I feel old now...

uhhh ....ok

With Hydro moving maybe you can get his? LMAO j/k Stephen! I want a 110 or so and that will be my limit.

what about a drip method? simple jug with RO/DI water and some baking soda or pickling lime mixed in? Could use a small air valve to regulate the drip. I did this for a few weeks before I got my reactor.

This is a good thing though

What are you dosing to keep the dkh up? Have you tried running baking soda in a reactor with your ATO? Thats what I did but I was using kalk and it was clogging up my pumps and putting a skuzzy haze on my sump. Not to mention all the harness make my cheato crunchy...

Think you have a C02 problem. High C02 drastically decreases the ability to buffer.

For cyano, I would have used chemiclean, it works like a champ every time.

Seems to me that its one or the other. Softies are always easier as they like dirty water compared to SPS. Im attempting to do both. I think the growth of one will be limited by the water quality. If super clean SPS should flourish but softies like hammer and frog S will not grow as fast. My welso likes dirty water, he puffs up mad when the water has some stuff in it but then my sps barely shows polyps. After my rebuild, my water is super clean. SPS seems to be very happy but has taken days for my hammer to inflate back up. My welso was huge till last night but looks like hes puffing back up this morning. I want to have about 60-70% SPS in my tank. Dont know what it is about the pokey little things but I just digg em! George, didnt you stop dosing kalk and vinegar? Also, I see your frags are on the sand bed and the polyps are sticking out big time. I had a screamin green birdsnest frag, about the size of an orange and I moved it from the sand bed to the middle of my tank and then eventually up to the top. It did much better at the top and the polyps did not stick out as far. "Lots of changes in a tank = lots of problems"-JeeperTy << think that hit the nail on the head.

All fast changes in the WC will cause a "panic" mode, even the good changes.

Guys, if your having problems connecting over the web, then you might try contacting your ISP and let them know what your doing and why. Tell them its for home security purposes and ask them what port they recommend to use. I had to do this with Suddenlink, they only leave 3 ports open to play with and they were hisitant to tell me which ones. Now, I have no problems. Also DHCP is your worst enemy due to lease time from your router. You should be able to trim the dhcp range and then set a static IP to your cameras. I had a ton of problems with my apex and it came down to my ISP blocking ports and my static ip had to be below the subnet range.

go to whatsmyip.com and it will give your external wan port addy.

I run GFO in a next reef reactor, and GAC in a TLF reactor. I fill the TLF reactor all the way up to prevent carbon tumbling as I dont like the dust particles that it puts off when it tumbles. GFO just about full since it weighs motor and tumbles well with very little upper water gap. Would run the GFO in the first reactor and then to the GAC that way any carbon dust doesn't get into your GFO media. I dont daisy chain mine, they are run off of separate ball valves from my gen x pump that also feeds the DT.

Camry are fine automobiles though. Honda and Toyota make the best cars IMO.

Should make a mini moped out of one of those taco bell dogs....

Sometimes I wish our boxer would crap in a box, hate mowing the back yard.....would need a huge box though. He is good at making a mess and eating though.

Cats really can fly!

Well hope it just rolled the cogs on the timing belt and its not an interference motor. If thats all then your car should be good to go after a timing belt.

Well since its cranking over faster than normal leads me to believe its got a dead cylinder. Good ole aluminum heads and cast iron block....scrubbing effect on the head gasket due to different heat exhange rates of the two materials and rapid cooling/heating due to low coolant level.

Sounds like a popped head gasket. Low compression on blown head..

Try this: https://www.tecous.com/files/TECO_Seachill_Reset_Guide_(TR10-15-20).pdf https://www.tecous.com/files/TECO_Coolant_Re-Charge_Instructions.pdf The manual: https://www.tecous.com/files/TECO_Seachill-All-Models-2008WEB.pdf I work for Teco...well Teco Westinghouse anyways. The Teco chillers are built in Italy. The contact info below may also help. I dealt with this guy on my chiller. Massimo Turci [email protected]

Hmm. I agree and dissagree. I had my 40g up for months and no coraline showed up. Through some horse trading I ended up with a bottle of PU. Dosed it as recommended and halfway through the bottle my rock had purple patched showing up all over. I know there is no coraline in the bottle and that even a snail with some coraline will spread the spores in your tank but I think the increased CA and other stuff thats in it just helps speed up the process. By all means it wont "create" coraline but it does shrink the time clock down.