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DerrickH

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Everything posted by DerrickH

  1. lol at this point Im ready to pour bleach in the tank....j/k
  2. Well at this point I'd be willing to bring some of this gunk to verify that it trully is dino. West Central shouldnt be too far from Jarrell, Im only about 10min north of Georgetown on 35. Be a small trip for me to verify what Im up against. I cant click the link here at work. Sometimes I think they block out the entire net with their nazi security here... About the vitamin C stuff, I havent tried that and Im running out of things to do other than break it down and sun bleach it all. You have a link to the stuff you used? Would think that peroxide woulda made a dent in it but no beuno...
  3. thats another thing. Guess Im going to have to order a mag kit online. I should by all means be checking it...just fell through the cracks I guess. Everywhere around here is either out or dont stock any mag test kits. Whats a good mag test kit brand? Red Sea? @ cMidd. For lack of a better word, tank is a newborn. I can see this being a "puberty" syndrome but Ive never had this stuff before. GHA/Diatoms/Cyano...yeah no worries and kicked all of them no prob. This stuff is nasty and populates faster than any cyano/gha Ive ever seen. I do know its photo based. After 7 days of no light, all the strings were gone and sand bed was clean as a whistle. Now its showing back up but on the rocks right now. Ive read a lot of successful stories using peroxide but I dang sure didnt have any. I cant remember, but I think I did one water change in the last 3 weeks, right before black out. I dont feed much since theres only 3 fish in the tank. Right now the UV sterilizer is shut off, GAC/GFO are off as well. Figured maybe the dino needs some competition in there or something. The UV kills all the free floating algae in the water, starving my clam and welso...So I figured turn it off, let the population get back up and take some ground that is currently being dominated by this dino stuff.
  4. This right here ^ I haven't checked ph in I don't know how long. Dinos are not hard to get rid of in my experience. I dosed H202, and in a week they had disappeared. They showed up in another of my tanks, treated the same, they are gone. I dose kalkwasser in my topoff for alk and ca, routine water changes, no other dosing is done routinely. You might look into dosing H202 to get rid of the dinos (are you sure that is what they are?). Ok, I missed the post about the H202 dosing, sorry. Maybe a pic? That might help. How much peroxide did you dose?
  5. I cant get the nitrates up. I could dump 10 cubes of mysis in there and a ton of flake and they come up then dissapear in a day. I shouldnt have to raise the nitrates and "keep" them there. My bio load is too low. I need to stick some more fish in there to get the load up I guess. Who knows. Ive lost some zoas and my green milli so Im a bit irritated at this crap. Ive just about worn google out trying to find a fix for this. The only thing I havent tried is ozone. The equipment is a lil high for my taste, especially after chucking $700 on the apex...I can take my corals out, put them in QT and sun bleach the rock, thats not a problem. All my stuff is on frag plugs or rock rubble. Just a pain having to cycle all over again.
  6. Water changes made it worse so stopped. I havent done a wc in probably 3 weeks at least. I dosed 8ml of 3% peroxide 2 times a day for 7 days straight. All it did was kill all my pods and *iss off my zoas I run GFO(sea chem) non stop and change it every two weeks. I fill the reactor 3/4 way up and let it tumble. Most people only fill 1/4 way. I have run GAC non stop and change it every 4-5 days. Enough to make my skimmer black.... I wet skim about 2g of water out every couple days. Keep my SG around 1.023. Was 1.027 when dino showed up. Wet skimming then ATO with RO/DI water brought SG down I moved all corals to a QT tank. They showed no dino in a few days after being in QT. Shut lights off for 7 days, covered tank with black plastic so dang near zero light got in. Tank looked fine after 7 days black out. LIghts back on and showing the snot again.... I dose kalk with ATO. Pickling lime in a reactor that stirs every two hours so heavy dose. Ph stays in low 8's with this. Ato runs about 5g out in 2.5 days. Nitrates show 0 Phosphates are low enough not to show on API kit...doesnt say much. I have had no other algae problems though so who knows. Only ph is the MP40 cranked up 100% in quick pulse wave mode Sand bed is thin, maybe 1/2" in back, 1" in front Rock came from Prof, was dead as dead can get I didnt have a single issue till I picked up some zoa's from another member. didnt dip...expensive lesson.. Getting pics through a bowfront is like splitting hairs....very difficult. Would like to have someone that has had dino to come take a look. Im about 99% sure its dino. I know its not cyano, its stringy and makes its own bubbles. Litterly like a snot string with bubbles on ends. Put corals back in sunday, they look like total crap. Im about at my ends with this stuff.
  7. GAC GFO WET SKIMMING CHAETO IN SUMP 7 DAYS LIGHTS OUT TANK WAS COVERED RAISED AK UP HIGH DOSED PEROXIDE Nothings working.
  8. Hmm. Dino is back with a vengeance. I see a teardown in the near future and a coral sale...
  9. I wonder if I put some flinstone vitamins in my tank if the dino's will grow more??

  10. One thing you could try is put some clear aquarium air tubing in the cap on your durso's. Drill the hole out large enough to force the tubing down through it about 1/3 the way down the stand pipe. This will cause the air "suction" to be forced through the tube instead of gurgling it through the durso inlet elbow. I seen this done on texasnano's tank it works well.
  11. Hmm, Ive had all of these problems. My old tank was a homemade durso and I had huge drain line. After all the changing stuff, I just put a large (1" ID) Ball valve on the drain hose and trimmed it a tiny bit and it was silent. Only drawback to "choking" the return that I had, is that my pump GPH drops a bit when the pump is hot. If I shut the pump off and it cools down, when fired back up it seemed that the drains were too slow and tank could possibly overfill. I found a happy medium and all was well. I think the filtersock and 45 is the simplest solution and to get your drain as straight as possible. No "T" fittings, use "Y" fittings. Less turbulence. Its easier to use the barbed "Y" fittings instead of PVC IMO. I wont use hard plumbing any longer, too much of a pain to tear down or if you want to mod things later. I use clear vinyl.
  12. Yeah, need more "plants".... I like having the windows open myself but I dont like the heat. My ATO tank is empty right now so its not dosing any kalk. Gonna bypass the kalk reactor and see where the ph stabilizes. Would rather spot dose CA instead of constantly dumping kalk in with ATO. I have put all my corals back in the tank. Not sure if it did any good, seems to still be a few stringys here and there. Ive been sucking them out with an old turkey baster. Does look a lot better than it did but who knows. they may come back with a vengeance...if so then Im going to stop all water changes and let them run their course. Eventually they will die out.
  13. Well managed to get my skimmer venturi routed to the window. Took about an hour but pH was up to 8.2 from 7.9. Left it alone and turned the whites on for a couple hours, pH hit 8.35 and stayed there for a while till lights went out. Guess my house is a C02 factory...
  14. Ones at home depot and tsc are cheap. I tell you what though, I have actual heat sinks and 24LED get pretty dang hot. I had to put a fan on mine.
  15. If its unhappy it will move itself. Mine moved about 2" and then planted itself nicely on a flat piece of rock. Problem is, when I wanted to move him....yeah he was stuck like chuck. Took quite some time rubbing my fingertip on its foot to get it loose. Now, he gonna be a sand dweller!
  16. I wouldnt move it. I had mine about half way up the rock work. It attached itself but eventually started moving around. If its not happy, then it will be all over the place and will knock stuff over in the process. When I get mine back, its going on the sand bed.
  17. thats a good looking clam! I hope to get mine back this weekend. I moved all my corals to a friends QT tank so I could do 7 days of darkness.
  18. Good luck. Hope you dont loose anything else
  19. The crabs molt is much thicker than a shrimps. I think he molted. I did have a big carpet nem eat one of my emerald crabs though....well and half my hermits. They are ruthless. condy's are die hard. Petco has oodles of them in their tanks, that should tell you how easy they are to keep alive.
  20. Cyano explodes when the nutrient content gets too high in the water column. Are you wetskimming? Ive found that GAC changed every other day and wetskimming like crazy will help tremendously.
  21. I had to post again...that post number was just plain bad luck....
  22. The one in RR off of louis henna has started carrying zoa's n leathers. They had a war coral the other day. They switched all their gravel out to argonite and upped their filtration system from what they said. I still dont see how its going to work till the silicates are out of the substrate and some bacteria is established. Purple tangs seems a bit risky to me. Ive seen a ton of dead naso tangs in their tanks.
  23. they will kill those nice fish for sure
  24. If you had cyano, your nutrient content was far too high. High nutrient content will cause brown out and RTN on delicate SPS. My green milli is on its last leg but my green slimer is doing great. It all depends on the coral. Either way, it sounds like the nutrient content is you culprit.
  25. Well I have had the tank blacked out since Friday night last week. Going to peek in there and see if this ocean snot is still flying around on my rock. Ive got my kalk reactor plumbed into my ATO now and picked up some tubing to run my skimmer to the window. Just been too busy
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