DerrickH

George do you feed a lot? Do you run a skimmer at all?

If your going to get an EB8, then just get the APEX. You wont need a dimming controller or timer any longer, the apex will do it all. However, it would be much cheaper to get an old cheap timer for the "on/off" part of the lighting and then a dimming controller to "ramp" them up or down and simulate the sunset/sunrise/midday stuff.

I think you will be alright, well your tank anyways lol. I still say test the tito's out a few times...not on the tank though...

This may fare well in my tank. Low light (LED), low flow, and medium nutrients. This still around?

I agree.

Is it "stringy"? If not then I say diatoms, if so then get ready for a hell of a ride...

Sounds like dino to me, its been rampant in the last 3 months.

Ok, forgive my ignorance. what happens when you just run the variable voltage down to say 8% on their drivers? Wont it just dim the diode down so low its not putting out any light? If so, couldnt you just leave them this way? I had a DIY kit with meanwells and an apex and below 10% the LED would just not illuminate. I never turned off my drivers. If I did, I'd get the 'flash bang" effect.

Sounds like Dino

Pulse width modulated. Non PWM drivers just use 0-10v where as the pwm uses a pulsed signal. Faster the pulse, the higher the output of the driver. The VDM and VS ports on the APEX are 0-10v

the algae will stay on the scrubber due to the surface texture and also the bubbles.

I agree, need to find someone thats breaking down a tank and get a couple scoops of sand from them to get your micro/macro fauna back up. Also, could find a few large rocks for sale (live) and break them up for rubble for the fuge. I still dont believe in voldka dosing. It didnt do anything for me but who knows, every tank is different. I had same problem with peroxide as well. In my old 40g tank (very successful tank), my overflow box had a **** load of GHA growing in it. I didnt know it till I tore the tank down. Guess that was my way of biological filtration for P04 and nitrates. I know GHA is better at eating up the nasties than cheato and pods love the stuff!

One of those green bubble wands or long bubble stones will work. You can trim the green ones to fit in your sump then take scissors to cut the plastic knitting thing to the same length. The bubbles will keep it upright. Add light source and bingo, your all set. If you can get a bulb with more kelvin than that would work too. I used a 6500k bulb on my cheato, was slow growth. My buddy is using an LED light and his is growing like crazy.

If he doesnt need a good pod population then I'd agree. However, I prefer to use a natural means of consuming the P04 and nitrates. Two birds with one stone, pod hotel and chemical filtration all in one.

I tried the voldka, wasnt impressed. GFO is a consumable (not very cheap either) where cheato grows on its own.

Basically a long air stone with some of the plastic sheeting used for knitting and such zip tied to the air stone. Air bubbles travel up the sheet and GHA will grow all over it. GHA consuming your PO4 would be at a drastic rate compared to GFO... Here is an image of it. Rough up the plastic sheeting with some sand paper so the GHA has something to stick to. When it builds up, pull it out and scrape it off with a credit card leaving a little bit left. Also shake the "glob" of it off in the sump to free the hordes of pods.

Are you dosing powder calcium supplements? I ask because of the crud on your cheato. I had this happen when I was dosing pickling lime. Also, with that much room in your sump where the cheato is, you could run a reverse turf scrubber and it would be a pod haven!

I dont have any pictures but my ORA Tri color and green slimer grew roughly an inch in all directions in about 5 months with 52cree LED.

Your best bet is to talk to the builders at a trans shop. They almost always will do work on the side. I used to do it, but I dont have my spring press, piston guides, or any of my snap ring plyers any more. I built transmissions for the better part of 10 years. Its easier than one thinks. Just have to pay attention to detail.

Im looking for one of those clamp on halide fixtures like the coralife ones. I have a small 16g tank that I'd like to go SPS dominant so thinking the factory LED lights just aint gonna cut it. Anyone got one? I know I'll have to pick up a new bulb so thats not a problem.

Anyone fighting Dino, the ozone machine would be a great idea.

Ok, just my .02c, but wouldnt it make more sense to turn the sump around in the stand? Have the drain come straight down into the sump and use a filter sock? Could put a skimmer in there if need be. Considering your return is positive pressure and not grav feed, it doesnt matter that the pump would have to push the water further across and then back up. With that raised section you could plumb your return into the side of the sump and utilize a "spray" design for a turf scrubber. That would be awesome! With water having to drain down your line now and then back up (due to the upward curve in tubing), then back down, its going to trap air in there and you will end up with a gurgle sound. Also, your drain pipe be it a durso or a gurgle buster will not work right with that much water restriction due to down/up/down tubing.

If your going to do SPS then you will need some higher end LED. The DIY kits are cheaper but if your not a hands on kinda person, then they are not for you. Aqua Illumination kits are not cheap, but they are plug and play. I had a 52 CREE DIY kit that could grow anything and I had to turn them way down or they would nuke my corals. Cree makes a fine diode....Im actually going to order some more for a pico tank Im working on.

Thats a pretty good deal I say. I need to get one of these barrels for sure!!! Im completely illiterate when it comes to the mm of the lens. I'll have to look and see what lenses I got so I know what to use, these pics look great!!

looks like we have a chan'r among us!

HAHAHAHAHAHA! Literally almost fell out of my chair laughing.