DerrickH

VIC YGPM

I say 90g min starting. Just my .02c but larger volume is easier to manage. Also, if you go big first time, then you wont have to do the expensive "upgrade" down the road. If I had it all to do over again, I would have went 250g the first time and bought all the equipment to match that, instead of constantly upgrading. I say find someone thats "tearing down" and buy the whole lot. Would be a heck of a lot cheaper than piecing it together over time.

I have clothes, toys, the queen bed/dresser set and some other items assembled. Im to pick up some more clothes and such from a friend in Belton. Just need to know how to get this stuff to you. I work mon-fri 8-5 so weekends would be best or after work. A coworker has offered a microwave, clothes, twin bed, sheets ect. Not sure what you guys need for you. It seems the wee lass has a lot heading her way. Shoot me a PM for items you and your significant other need. I do have a truck, but it get far less than desirable gas mileage....so would like to meet up somewhere near pflugerville/RR area if possible. Lemme know.

I cant see the pic for some reason.

I used stability once. It worked well. Ive also used Dr Tims. It also works well.

since you have a fish in there, you will need a house keeper for it.

What about the beer thats consumed in the process? lol!

Get some coraline spores from another member then add a few snails with coraline on their shells. They will spread the spores around for you. Dont be surprised if it takes quite a while for it to color up though. My 40g took months to get any coraline. My 72g never got any.....the 16g I have now its growing like weeds....just not on the glass yet.

If your tank has cycled, then the rock should be full of "good" bacteria. Be careful, some "live" rock will yield unwanted pests if your not careful.

A 4 stage should be:

Stage 1: .5 Micron Sediment Filter

Stage 2: .5 Micron Carbon block

Stage 3: Membrane

Stage 4: Di Resin canister

If your just needing it for some corline spores, talk to ozarka, his tank grows coraline like wildfire. Hes always scraping a ton of it out. Sure he would part with some of this "precious" purple stuff

Robb, YGPM

kmacc, YGPM on non reef stuff.

I used this. I got most of it with the lights I got from olaggie.

http://www.8020.net/'>Go here

Yeah ich free seems to be an illusion lol. Like cyano and diatoms and gha...

Ive had ich 3 separate times in 3 separate systems. I used a UV on all 3. All of them displayed no signs of ich after only a week. I let the UV run during daylight schedule and off at night (most pod activity). All fish were still eating though so they were not on the downward spiral that happens a lot of times when ich breaks out.

Hydro has had many tangs (ich prone) and he combats them using UV as well with great success. Ive never tried copper or hypo salinity since I was able to combat it with the addition of a UV lamp. Very slow flow through the lamp provided the best results.

When I dosed Mrs Wages, my cheato became very "crunchy"....it eventually died and I threw it away.

Thanks for the advise. Yeah I kinda thought the goby may be a bad idea as well. Was trying to figure out how to replenish the pod population. Maybe an HOB fuge full of cheato...

I litterally put this thing on cruise control from day one. Only thing Ive done is top off and add the halide lol. Looks like testing and a WC this weekend will be in the mix. Maybe a bangai cardinal or two.

I have a 16g AIO tank set up in my living room. It had some low powered LED lights on it but the color tone just didnt look good. I started the tank with true coraline covered live rock and live sand. Full of brittle stars and some bristle worms. Set it up and let it run on its own for about 5 weeks. I added some duncans that were just about history, some dragon eye zoas, and some palys. All of them are thriving and the duncans have just about recovered. There is also a massive pod population in the tank as well. Some huge pods. The only filtration is the rock, sand, and some sponges in the overflows. There is room in the overflows for carbon bags and gfo bags. Return is built in as well. I have no powerheads in there since there is only about 3/4" from water line to top of glass (rimless) and I dont want water splashing out.

There are ZERO fish in this tank so bio load is slim to none. Other than the small corals and pods put out there isnt a lot to create nitrates.

My question is, since I ditched the LED and put a 150w HQI pendant with a 20k bulb over it, would sps be out of the question since the water volume is so low and there is no means for nutrient export? All I want is acros and milli's for sps and only fish that will eventually go in there will be a mandarin goby. For the sps guru's out there, whats your thoughts.

Also, I have yet to do a water change on it and the tank has been up nearly 3 months....

No more gifs????

Lol, I just put a 150w HQI over a 16g AIO! I want SPS!

Off. What type of daytime lights? LED? Halides?

I'd starve out the cyano. The dino should loose ground as well. Wish something would eat the dino, I'd kept my bowfront if something woulda gobbled up that ocean snot....

Sounds like the majority is for the APEX. If you can afford it, its worth its weight in gold.

My buddies duncan got murked by a file fish (who knew?). It had 10 or so heads. When he brought it over to baby sit, there was maybe a couple spots that had tissue on them. We figured they were gonners. After two weeks, Its back to 8 heads and the tentacles are starting to grow back. The file fish ate off all the tentacles then went after the centers....