aeroaustin

Thanks..

I'm going to scrap where is stubborn area.

I wonder if I can use razor to scrap some green aglae that has stubborn that can't remove or top of the sand that magfloat can't reach it.

I have extra blades that use for scrap anything. will not harmful the saltwater.

I plan to use the razor as one timer then throw it out.

I have a major problem with Mojanos. They are pretty but they spread rapidly! Kill them while there are only a couple. I tried Joe's juice with mixed results. I just have so many of them now that I am in a losing battle.

Really, will be problem for long time? I just put live Rock last two weeks ago. Best to remove right now? Will be work with pry it out with tweezer or razor knife? other way to remove it. I haven't try with aspitais control bottle yet, one thing I hate that chemical because have to pull the powerhead off for an hour to give the chemical settle down.

Just cut the mushroom off the rock with a razor blade. Then tie it some how to where you want it to stay. We use a needle and thread and sew through the foot and the around the rock. It is actually kind of fun. We do it all the time at the house. I would say we have about a 75% survival rate.

Where I can find any sample or any instruction about " how to frag or how to move the coral " This is my first time. or maybe you can help me with that?

we will start to collect SPS, LPS and soft corals. NOT OVER POPULATION

blue one is a blue tonga mushroom, the second pic shows zoathids, and the last two pics are mejano anemones (most people consider them pests)

Thanks, How I can remove blue tonga mushroom and move to other place because tank's water movement is 2,400 gph in 75 gallon tank, I read that blue tonga mushroom needs low water movement.

Two Mejano Anemones, kill with Joe's juice or chemical like asptiais? ( I had blue life Aspitais control )

Howdy,

I just acquitted the 50 plus Lbs live rock from MAAST. Few days I noticed there are corals grows. I tried to figure it out what is name of this coral, no luck name for identify the coral.

There are suppose to be 6 corals but I have problem to take picture with angle. unforuntaely the picture came blurr. So far four are taken by camera.

The blue coral , I took the picture and tday I find other two small coral next to Blue, I tried to take picture.

James,

Don't worry about it. give me a good reason to come up north and check it ou RCA and Horizon, I think about get a lawnmower Bleeny and some nasairus snails and check it out.

Tomorrow I will redo the plumbing, I will drill a hole for overflow box (hob) to hole for feeding into refuge and leave the drain 1" alone to drain than complicate with many pipes.

I will pose the picture that I have several corals happns to appear to grow. I don't know what is to ID the corals. I bought the live rocks from MASST.

Seeing measurable nitrite in an established tank is a concern. But nitrate is OK, in low levels (5 ppm is low ). Nitrate's will build in the tank naturally and are normally removed by doing your regular water changes. You can also remove nitrates via macro algae and refugiums.

Thanks...

Tomorrow I will go to RCA to buy Chateo and Copepods for my refugium, I already set up new 30 long sump with refuge and I haven't get Chateo yet that why been running refuge without chateo for a week,

Hi,

got back in town. I tested the water and I had detect the nitrate, the nitrate approx is 5 ppm that is safe or too high? need water exchange? PO4 is 0

Nitrate caused by air pump in the sump? ( i have problem with PH)

which is more concern Nitite or Nitrate?

THanks

I have 4 frags with about 10 plus polyps for 25.00 . The real nuclear palys.

Shoot, would like get one of these but we are out of town until monday.

Gkarshen,

I am try to see if I get it right.

Here our first babies, paired ocellaris. called them Romeo and Juilet. got them from RCA.

I got my wife a new digital camera and my wife plays with Z10 Kodak camera. She took a picture of babies.

Me too, I tried but no luck.. I did post one of my picture on gallery. and I tried with insert image but it reject with img.

Really, see you have the same problem I have... I tested Phosphate and its 0, all the parameter went 0. I added the new carbon in the sump.

I read the message some where in forum mention that suspend the light for 72 hours ( 3 days ) like as Troprical storm in ocean. I can't find where the information. That will reduce the cyano.

Let me know which is best work for you.

I filled it up the new salt batch with RO/DI (TDS 0) for siphon in cases if I have to do to remove all the cyano while the siphon..

Best luck of you.

I notice there are red slime on sand and also on the wall of backd tank,

THere are not lots of food feed, there are two ocellaris and 30 inverts. i have 2400 gph in the 75 gal tank I reccently added 40 lbs of live rocks from MAAST. I reduced the lights to 8 hours.

Can I Siphon the slime out of the sand? or use slime remover?

I will do, I noticed there are some leaking with thread.. I will do with telfon tape later..

are you using teflon tape for thread plumbing? or without?

In a fuge I think you can just put the sand in and add water. You might let it settle before you start running water through the fuge. Since it is live sand I wouldn't bother with washing it out.

Thanks James.... so go ahead and start to working on it when early morning as when Rooster's call

I will start to replace the 20 long sump to new 30 long sump with refuge. I will put sand ( direct live sand ) from carib-sea to refuge. Do I Have to wet the sand first before introduce to refuge? or direct to refuge then add the fresh salt mixer in sump? I haven't put water to sump yet. Tomorrow will do change the sump and redo plumbing.

will be with 15 lbs of live rock and sand and will get chateo when I come back to town.

Thanks

An air pump should help some. A month is a long time for PH. It can shift in a few hours. I would take it and have them test it again. If it is low then you should recalibrate your meter.

I will check and recalibrate the Meter tonight. I have several pouches of 7.0 and 10.0 and see what is result and if there the meter is accurate and if PH is higher on PH meter. I will exchange the water. I already have salt and RO/DI (venturi in MJ) in the storage to ready to exchange

I would suggest taking a sample of your water to RCA and have them test it to see what they say. Just make sure you take the water there quickly after collecting it to be as accurate as possible. If you are sure your PH meter is calibrated right I would venture to guess it is more accurate then the tests.

I have take the water to RCA last month ago. and Randy say that PH is low so dosage the buffer 4 tps to raise the PH. Randy use API test kit.

Its possible to add the air pump into sump (skimmer area) to keep oxygen and will stable PH? Just my guess..

I don't know why Ph has dropped everyday.; I keep put Reef Buffer to increase the PH up.. My Alk is stable between 9.0 to 10.17 DKH and the Calicum is 430 ppm and MG is 1230 ppm. THe PH has gone to 7.7.

I know it might be issue with Carbon Dixiode. I just added window Air Condiditoner in livingroom that cold air will direct to Tank to keep temp during the summer. The rental property age is 1980, the window is very old. There were has air draft.. the stove range is Gas.

I has test three differnt kit. API, Salifret and Milkawakee PH600 PH meter. I don't know which is more accurated.

API test kit showed that PH is 7.6 to 7.8

Salifret kit has range between 7.7 to 8.0

PH600 PH meter has dected tha PH is 8.5 (the calibrate test as accurate with 7.0 and 10.0)

Or I have issue with problem to identify the color? mostly of test kit there are smiliar color each with light and dark color.

I ageed wih you, first I had swing arm and I assume that there was 1.026 for three months and I lost cleaner shrimp and a fish. I blamed the for bad species so I ordered Refractometer and impacted me that salinty is 1.030. I don't trust the cheapest and plastic anymore, trust the expnesive equipment and you and fishes will happy with that.

G'day

I just acquired 50 to 60 lbs live rock from MAAST, the rock is in conatiner with powerhead to keep ciruclated the water.

I have a question for you, when the rock's water parameter is good then go to tank, I wonder about If I put live rock on the sand or do I need to move the sand away so rock can be sit then put sand near the rock to prevent collapsed or falling? will effect the ammonia spike?

or just put rock and sit on top of the sand?

Look so good.. hurry up fill it up!

Both look good. You are now in the realm of personal preference. Plan A would give you the option of having two long side visible. Plan B is a touch more traditional a slightly easier to plumb. I like plan A, but it is up to you.

I agreed, I like plan A because of hide, and look neat, exepct retrun pipe that is really not bad. every is hide. also easy to access to overflow box when I check the stuffs in the cabient for i.e auto top off, water exchange with fresh salt mix, QT tank is on bottom of shelf.. look Neat than visible of object. When every is done, will pose the pictur.

ok I will do this skimmer >> return >> Refuge...

ok How about location for overflow box on the center of tank or right side of tank (not end of right back)? Which is beneficial?

Here the plan, there are two options from A and B plan. what do you think of my plan?

If you have proper water movement it really shouldn't matter too much.

I run one Koralia # 4 (1200 GPH) and also I will process to order one more Koralia #4 today if there is no stock in anywhere in lFS.

will be total of 2400 GPH in tank..