GKarshens

From what I have seen over the years of watching the boards is that people buy Chromis for their shoaling quality and then slowly watch them disappear until there is just one or two. I think they are aggressive toward each other and slowly pick off the weakest ones. There are a pair of clowns at Gallery of Pets that are over 25 years old. SW fish will live a long time if they are kept properly. That is why it irritates me so much when I see people put fish in a tank that is too small, or too many fish in a tank. After 6 moths they say everything is happy. 6 months is barely a beginning. Too many of us look at things too short term in keeping our tanks.

It would be very easy to test if somebody had the space. 2 identical tanks plumbed into the same system with the frags from the same colonies in each. Give it 6 months and see what happens.

Great advice! I hate when I see people put a fish in a tank too small for the fish and say "I'll just get rid of it when it gets too big". The fish doesn't know that. In the meantime he is growing in a tank too small and getting increasingly stressed.

That's because it's not 1200 gallons. According to his dimensions it is 1122g. 120" x 60" x 36" / 231 = 1122. Still an incredible tank though! I would hate to have his electric bill!

Did you get those Plasma lights yet from that video link someone posted earlier? I would love to hear and experienced unbiased opinion on their viability.

I will almost guarantee this is Chinese. Which means it is either a fake if Bubble Magus( I have heard of Bubble King and Bubble Master) is a legit company, or a cheap knock-off. I agree with Stephan on this one.

Do you mean Cyano? It is a bacteria not an algae. It can feed off of Phosphates leaching out of the rock. It may not test in the water column. I have posted before my warning about using red slime remover, but many have used it successfully. Especially since you don't really have any corals. I prefer the less food more water changes (syphon out as much as you can during water changes.) and wait method though.

That is great! I am glad you caught it before it was too late.

I don't know. That is what is so infuriating. He was eating and swimming one day and dead stuck to a powerhead the next.

Sounds like it. I would get him out somehow just in case. I just lost my Rhomboid Wrasse and I am still upset.

A piece of ice on the foot will sometimes make it let go too.

So I had several offers to help with this. I am ready to start setting it up soon. My daughters class is having ocean week in August and I definitely would like to have it up by then. So if the offers still stand please let me know. Especially the one about building the tanks. Thanks!

Once you get to a certain length it becomes almost impossible to do rimless because of flex in the glass. The Eurobracing eliminates any cross braces to block light.

It may be 0 after the DI Dave but you are using up your DI resin much faster without bleeding off the start up. That's why I use a dual TDS meter. Good idea on the hose timer!

I don't like the idea of a float valve because the first couple minutes of water after turning on the RO is high in TDS. I have a T valve before the DI that I use to bleed off that water until the TDS comes down.

I stumble out of bed and down the stairs knowing my coffee will be waiting for me. Only to step into water off the last step. Yes I left my RO/DI running all night. Fortunately it didn't get off the tile floor. So about a 1/2 an hour and a blister from wringing out wet towels later, not much harm done. I think I am going to order a water alarm!

Man I wish!!! Want a nice big Palau Nepthea for it?