doktorstick

I want to try out a Hydor Flo on my return and am looking for one really cheap.

I added corals (zoos, bubble corals) and various CuC members. Nothing I would expect would pick on the little girl.

I do not have garlic anything. I guess I'll be making a trip to the LFS on the morrow to give that a try.

Howdy.

My orchid dottyback is listless, and has been so for about a day. It has remained hidden in a rock although when I tried placing food nearby, it fled and has been hanging out under and outcropping. She swims sideways and upside down sometimes, and always slowly like she's mostly floating along the currents and steering a bit. She has always been active and a voracious eater, but didn't touch the frozen reef #2 I added this evening. It's hard to say if her colors are faded. She doesn't have bulging eyes nor white spots on her. She does look a little thin.

This all happened after a water change, about 10%. There's two changing variables involved here. First, my parameters were all very good with the exception of salinity. It had dropped to around 1.022 after I acclimated about 6 bags of critters. The drop was gradual as my ATO compensated for the water loss. That's the first variable.

After the water change, the salinity stabilized near 1.025 +/- a little bit. I used new salt, too--Tropic Marine Reef Pro; I had been using Instant Ocean. This is the second variable.

All of my other critters (inverts) and corals are doing great--nice and active, extended, etc.

I do not have a quarantine tank. I also feel that if I did, the stress of moving her might be too much. Likewise, if I did "throw together" a QT tank, it wouldn't be much use as it isn't cycled or anything.

Is this a wait-and-see? Do I continue feeding as normal? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

Take out all the rocks and scrub them with a toothbrush (/me pokes Carrie).

Ben, you could always do a 10-inch sand bed! Or maybe 6-inch with a 4-inch plenum!

That is very cool. When I saw one at AquaDome I had to have one until I researched and found that most tend to starve (much like sand sifting stars) because we don't have enough gunk in our sand beds for long term survival.

Marc: I didn't have a WYSIWYG item.

Yellow Watchman Goby (Cryptocentrus cinctus)

Small: 1“-2½“ $ 16.99

NOTE: Marc - Add a comment to the order for a YWG closer to 1" in size.

Red Montipora Capricornus (montipora capricornus)

Size: 1"-1.5" Frag $ 12.99

Meteor Shower Cyphastrea (Cyphastrea sp.)

Frag: 3/4" $ 38.99

Total: $ 68.97 less 10% + $1 = $ 62.07

I will add this. I have two separate Nitrate test kits I use to test Nitrates because for over a month, I've had 0 Nitrates.

The light is two months old. It's an undercabinet mount. Though, maybe the glass has an algae film that is impeding light transfer. It's hard for me to see back there.

i have coralline algae sites that seem to be blooming. Otherwise, i do have little algae. I had a breakout of hair algae about 3-4 weeks ago but it is all gone now. In fact, it appears so pristine that I've started feeding my CuC with strips of nori for fear of starvation.

Yes, they are also referred to as quantum meters. I was the one looking for one earlier.

How much wattage of light does chaeto need? I have it in my refugium on a reverse photocycle lit by an 8W fluorescent light. In the earlier days of my tank, I believe that it was growing--it became more dense. Now, it has whittled away to half the size and is a darker color. I moved it into my display for stronger lighting to see if it makes a difference. (Wow, now I have green crap floating everywhere.)

I saw a reference in a trade forum about someone's tank being too "nutrient poor" for the growth of chaeto. What causes nutrient poor tanks and how does one know if they are nutrient poor?

Thanks.

Definitely visit Laura, she'll treat you right.

I'm good now, thanks.

As of right now, I'm sitting at the $50-70 range.

And I have 0. And in an EnergyStar house built in 2008. Yowza.

So... more energy efficient house, the more indoor plants. AMIRITE?

I currently have that! Oh I'm so ghetto.

Or just crack open a $3.99 powerstrip and rewire 2 to be always on even if you toggle the on/off switch. (It's not lost on me that everyone can't do that and the Belkin might be a good choice.)

I find I need one more, though, for feeding cycle. My routine (for better or worse) is:

1. Cut skimmer and return pump; circulation pumps remain on.

2. After 15 minutes, turn on return pump.

3. After 1 hour, turn on skimmer.

I'm so looking forward to my DIY controller for this reason.

I'm doing the same thing with a 5.5g. How did you cut the overflow slits? I'm to the point of cutting the slits and drilling my return. Are you just going to stick the MJ nozzle through your return hole or are you going to install a bulkhead and tubing?

ok cool. sounds good.

thanks for the heads up doktor

No problem. In fact, they are about $5 cheaper from Mama.

Mark: With the holidays coming up I'm on a tight schedule and I can do this order, but I can't tolerate a day or two delay in placing the order. Are you going to be pretty hard-*** about getting the order in on the 14th?

Corey -- Mama has electric blues in stock right now. I think a tad (maybe $1 or $2) cheaper than Vivid.

Mama's order came in. Go pick up your hermits. They are left-handed zebras, both from coloring and claw size. They are fantastic! Also, she has Halloween Electric Blue hermit crabs (very cool) and these fluorescent orange snails. I can't remember what they are called off-hand.

She ordered a bunch of crabs because of ya'lls post, so go by and pick them up so she does more for us in the future!