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SoonerFan

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Posts posted by SoonerFan

  1. I agree with shop vacing the sump, but you might look into these pumps they sell at Lowe's or Ace. They pump the water out to less than 1/4 inch (I usually would get completely empty) and you can put a hose connection to the pump. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Power-Water-...e/dp/B0000AXSI9

    Then the only thing you have to shop vac is the left over detritus.

    Looking good.

    You putting the chiller in the same room or running to different location?

  2. I always use flexspa whenever possible as it reduces turns and gives me play (particularly with a chiller!) I love that it can still be glued. What size connections on chiller?

    Since we almost always way overpower our closed loop pumps and return pumps I think you are going to be just fine on the turns and bends. The best thing is that you have kept it open enough that any maintenance issues will be easy to address.

    I am guess the OM is powered? I have never used one so I don't know if they can run dry. If not, I would have the pump and OM on the same switch to make sure you don't turn off the pump and not the OM. Not sure if it really matters, but just something I thought of.

    Did you put a "T" on the closed loop drain so you can automate water changes? I have always thought that would be a good idea but I have not had a closed loop yet. Just something to think about.

    Lee

  3. Love the magnet idea. That sounds like it will look very nice!! I can understand on the plumbing costs. So many people forget how much plumbing can cost!!

    Lee

    Thanks guys I'm glad you like.

    Lee- Ace will be skinning out the stand. As of now the plan is to join Pine so that the grain is going up and down and stain it ebony. There will be four panels identical to each other 30" wide and I'll have magnets on the back side so there are no screws and I can remove the panels quickly for maintenance. That will be down the road though, I need to recover from the plumbing cost first. :)

  4. There are some decorator crabs from Japan that are fine and virtually all of the commensal SPS crabs are perfectly fine (one of my favorite creatures in my tank - bought the coral colony because of the crab). Not all hairy crabs are bad and there are a bunch of "smooth" crabs that can be devastating, Leslie H is the inverts guru on Reef Central and if you can get pics, I would post an ID request on the invertebrates forum on Reef Central or ask Ron Shimek at Marine Depot forums.

    I had a 2 to 3" black hairy crab in my scorpionfish tank for two years and never bothered anything (including the Hawaiian frogfish that gets about 2"). Crab taxonomy is very weak and knowing the habits of many is very hard. On reefcentral the suggestion is to usually place in fuge which is absolutely ludicrous, you don't want any predators in your fuge!

    Lee

  5. If Gabriel swings by you should be just fine. I leave for Vegas tomorrow and don't return to Thursday but would be happy to visit and help if Gabriel can't. When you say "Chinese" regarding lights I suspect you might be buying cheap bulbs. Don't. For all you spend on everything else, don't skimp there.

    A lot of softies can be done in a tank, but sometimes the chemical warfare can cause problems. The Money Cowrie is GREAT and just fine for your tank.

    The cucumber in the sand bed doesn't need any phyto, but the other one does. With a lot of softies good water movement and running carbon can help with chemical warfare.

    Lee

  6. I got a frag from JG and it is doing great!! A very beautiful piece!! John has lots of nice corals. Brian (Greenmako) has the nicest Oregon Tort I've ever seen and some pink lemonade (not sure fraggable size yet though).

    Lee

  7. I suspect the bulbs as well and don't add anything unless you test for it. Also, what species of Cowrie, some actually eat soft corals so be careful. Could also be chemical defense from leather. That is a lot of softies in a 29 gallon. If you have a lot of green algae, then the tests aren't showing something right.

    Lee

  8. Without seeing a pic, nothing is ever for sure, but Cerith's do reproduce. They usually stay in sand much of time and come out on rocks to graze (same thing they do in wild). They do reproduce quite easily in aquariums. If they are the dreaded pyramid snails they drill a hole in the shell (like most mollusks that prey on other mollusks) and they are basically only eliminated by not having clams for a long time in the tank. The wrasses that do eat them, forage during day and these guys are more active at night.

    Lee

  9. I needed to frag some stuff as the Solana is getting full! Can Bring to August MAAST Meeting at RCA tomorrow!!

    Here is the list with some pictures:

    Nuclear Halo's (Pic is Mother Colony) about 11 polyps - $55

    Purple Death Paly's - $75

    Nuclear Halo's and Purple Deaths (Mother Colonies):

    ReefTankandTarantulas039.jpg

    X-Men Paly's about 4 polyps - $40

    Eagle Eye Zoa's - About 15 polyps $15

    Don't worry aptasia is gone.

    Mother colony photo:

    Solana040.jpg

    Bright Yellow Turbinaria "Scroll" - This is a perfect size frag for nano. About 1.5" to 2" across chunk with another small piece below it. I mounted to bivalve shell and doing well. I have owned the mother colony for 4 years. - $20

    Mother Colony

    SolanaJune202008031.jpg

    White "Puffy" Xenia looks exactly like Red Sea Xenia sold at RCA - Very small frag $10

    Blue "Xenia" Cespitularinia - Large chunk that stretches to 3" or so when fully expanded - $50

    WYSIWYG Photo:

    Solana019.jpg

    Small Green Birdsnest Frag and while only about 1" has about 7 branch tips starting - $10

  10. Who else is going to come tomorrow? Want to make sure we have enough chili!!! Promise, that alone will be worth it. I will have a couple of nano sized live rock to give away as well so I can convert the old Aquapod to freshwater.

    Lee

  11. I want a small piece. ARe you coming to the July meeting at my house? If so, you can bring with you, if not, I will be needing to get some water at River City soon and will work out a way to pick up.

    Lee

  12. Dave,

    I highly recommend the following fish:

    1.) Radiant Wrasse - probably one of the most beautiful fish, requires sand bed, and make sure it is eating well before buying. Aquatek gets them in quite frequently. Requires sand bed to bury in at night. One of my all time favorite fish. Just fine with shrimp, inverts.

    2.) Genicanthus angels are beautiful, don't eat coral, and are pretty laid back. Local fish stores are starting to get them much more regularly. Best angelfish for any tank hands down.

    3.) Pinkbar Goby - I can't figure out why more people don't own this beautiful fish. Live Aquaria has them regularly, but hardly see in LFS. Aquatek occasionally has one.

    4.) A less expensive reef safe trigger is the Pinktail Trigger and it is a beautiful fish. To help keep them reef safe, when you introduce inverts, don't just "drop them in" like you do food. Take them all the way to the bottom with a net and let them loose on the rock. I actually used one color net to feed fish and another to introduce new inhabitants. I actually trained the Trigger to be scared of the introduction net. I would put in tank without anything, and when he would get close, bonk him on the head with it. He pretty much learned what net to eat out of and what to avoid. Also good idea to introduce after other fish.

    5.) Flasher and fairy wrasses, although not every combination is good, you should check the Fairy Wrasse thread on Reef Central where the world expert on fairy and flasher wrasses (Tanaka) posts frequently.

    6.) Basically, try and get some fish that are open swimmers, some that hang out at the bottom and some that tend to hide more among the rocks. Makes for an interesting combination.

    7.) Try to avoid all the "common" fish that EVERYONE has in their tank and it will make for more exciting display.

    8.) Coral Banded Shrimp can eat other cleaner shrimp. I had success with a large Coral Banded Shrimp and peppermint shrimp, but I would not have risked a common cleaner or fire shrimp.

    9.) Tang wise, I would HIGHLY recommend avoiding those that tend to get ich or are extremely sensitive.

    Lee

    Hey everyone,

    Just looking for opinions on stocking my 225. I'm clueless...I have been sold so many fish that ended up eating shrimp, snails and other fish that I really want to make this take symbiotic. So, I'm really not sure what I need? I've been reading a lot on various web sites but there is a lot of contradicting information. Some say, "Reef Safe" others say "With Caution"?

    I know I want some "Cleaner Shrimp" a Coral Banded Shrimp, another cool Tang or even a Reef Safe Trigger if one exists? I would like to get a "schooling" fish of 5-6 that is small as well.

    Maybe I need to have everyone over just to take a look prior to Lee Hoy's meeting since I'm in Gtown as well?

    Here is what I currently have:

    1- Ocellaris Clown that is living in a green Carpet Anemone.

    1- Scooter Blenny

    1- 4.5" Sailfin Tang

    1- Tiger Pistol Shrimp

    1- Bubble Tip Anemone

    Various corals that I have no clue what they are?????

    I also have a "Marine Beta" that I would like to trade for Shrimp, another fish, coral....

    It is listed as "Semi Aggressive". But, would probably do well with a "Like" tank.

    Your friend...and mine, ;)

    Dave

  13. I will be preparing some killer chili. Feel free to bring any other snacks you would like. I will provide Chili, cheese, and Frito's. Bring Your Own Beer or Beverage. I will have few soft drinks available.

    There will be a powerpoint presentation on the key molluscs in our aquarium.

    Lee

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