Starting My First Tank

[ChrisPeavey]

So, I am completely new to this and want to start out right. I am not looking to rush and realize that this will take some time and I need to be patient. That being said, I need some advice and pointers. I have a 55 gallon tank and want to get it started with just the basics. I have my heater (200watt) and a filter of suitable size. I was going to go ahead and order some salt to mix my water, some live sand and some rock. Is there anything else I am missing just to get started. I know a protein skimmer and those types of things are good to have and will add that later. I just need advice on getting it going. Thanks.

[Dan H]

Are you going to be doing a reef tank or fish only? If it's a reef tank, you will eventually need some good lights. There are a ton of options so you may need to research what suits your budget and needs. When you mix your water, you will want to use RODI water.

[FarmerTy]

Got a picture of your current equipment? Is the 55-gallon drilled? Will you be using a sump? The filter you mention, what type is it?

[ChrisPeavey]

Are you going to be doing a reef tank or fish only? If it's a reef tank, you will eventually need some good lights. There are a ton of options so you may need to research what suits your budget and needs. When you mix your water, you will want to use RODI water.

I am wanting to eventually make it a reef tank. I have been looking at lights but was told I could wait on that if all I was doing was the rock and sand to get it started.

[ChrisPeavey]

Got a picture of your current equipment? Is the 55-gallon drilled? Will you be using a sump? The filter you mention, what type is it?

The filter is a hang on and is an Aqueon 55/75. No the tank is not drilled and its shorter than a previous 55 I had. As far as a sump, I was thinking of adding that later.

[Dan H]

You can certainly add the lights later. Just put that into the plan.

If you are going to add a sump, and the tank is currently empty, it would really be worth taking the time to drill it now. That will save you a whole lot of heartburn later.

[ChrisPeavey]

You can certainly add the lights later. Just put that into the plan.

If you are going to add a sump, and the tank is currently empty, it would really be worth taking the time to drill it now. That will save you a whole lot of heartburn later.

While I have been doing a lot of reading and research, A lot of this is still a bit confusing to me. What exactly is the benefit to having a sump ?

[FarmerTy]

More volume of water for stability and a place to hide your equipment. While not needed, it does make keeping a saltwater tank a little easier in my opinion without having cords and equipment everywhere in your main display tank. You can even set up a refugium down there to help with nutrient export. If you plan to add a skimmer down the line, they aren't usually small, so having a sump to put it in will help hide it.

I agree with Dan, for the sump, it's better now or never. Adding one in after the tank is already running is going to be difficult to drill the holes needed. You can always run a hang-on-the back siphon based overflow without drilling but there are certain positives/negatives with that as well to consider.

[ChrisPeavey]

More volume of water for stability and a place to hide your equipment. While not needed, it does make keeping a saltwater tank a little easier in my opinion without having cords and equipment everywhere in your main display tank. You can even set up a refugium down there to help with nutrient export. If you plan to add a skimmer down the line, they aren't usually small, so having a sump to put it in will help hide it.

I agree with Dan, for the sump, it's better now or never. Adding one in after the tank is already running is going to be difficult to drill the holes needed. You can always run a hang-on-the back siphon based overflow without drilling but there are certain positives/negatives with that as well to consider.

What would some of those positives and negatives be. Obviously I know something hanging on the back of the tank is one of the negatives.

[FarmerTy]

It is siphon-based so if you ever lose that siphon, water would stop going down to the sump. Depending on your equipment in the sump, it may cause some issues if it goes unnoticed long-term. Yes, aesthetics is another thing to think about.

I know you're a little further away, but getting to look at a couple of nice setups would help you gear in on a setup you like and then you can mimic that and their success. We have monthly meetings that we rotate being up north and down south. Maybe you can catch the next one down south?

[Dan H]

Definitely checking out some people's systems can really help give you ideas. Learning from everyone else's mistakes is probably the single best way to save money and frustration.

[Juiceman]

Speaking for the guy who's ran Hang on the Back Tanks, a HOB Overflow to Sump Tank, and Drilled Tanks, I wouldn't definitely drill the tank prior to setup if possible.

[Dan H]

First time you flood your house because the siphon on the HOB overflow broke, you'll be wishing you drilled.

[Sascha D.]

I've done drilled and non-drilled tanks. You'll save yourself a lot of headache if you get it drilled and add a sump from the start. Good luck!

[+OU12004]

While I agree with what everyone else is saying about a sump, you can definitely use a hang on the back filter, do water changes and keep just about anything. It does take more manual work, but the cost is significantly lower to start. If you want to keep corals I would pick up an ATO and a good light.

Personally I started with high quality live rock and have been very happy with the results, it cut down the cycle time significantly and I have had very few algae issues.

If you stick with the HOB, I use chemipure elite (Carbon and GFO in one), along with a weekly 10% water changes and my oldest coral in my 29g is around 10 years old.

[Isaac]

while a sump and fuge are not mandatory, the fuge adds an ecosystem which will sustain your tank once it matures, and the sump gives you room and more water volume. on my old tank i didnt have to feed the fish after about 2 yrs due to the fuge! Also, the more water volume you have.. visible or not, the more stability you will have.

think of it in terms of ratios... it takes X to bring your water quality to 10ppm nitrates in 100 gals, it would take somewhere between X times 2 or 3 to hit the same levels in 200gals (its not 1:1, its more parabolic). On crazier systems like mine, i have my sump in the garage so i don't HEAR anything, leaving me room for a much larger fuge underneath. I also designed the system to have its lowest point the garage... if my ATO fails or something weird happens... it /should/ flood the garage (*knock on wood*), not my wood floor. when problems arise, you will be affected slower and less proportionally with more water volume. On that same note... your water changes would be larger if you aimed for 20-25% changes.

Drill it now, use gravity if you can. siphons work well, sometimes too well.

[Isaac]

oh, the most important thing.... PATIENCE. every friggin step during the setup to maint to husbandry to fragging to anything requires patience. really forces the impatient in us to calm down and think... hell, look at tyty and his super-paranoia-dipping *lol* I take my impatience out on making things more complicated for myself *lol*

EDIT: i forgot, its "tyty" now

[ShawnM]

The one thing I thought of that has not been mentioned or if it was I did not see it is a power head/water mover you will need one

I might miss some stuff but here goes

Tank and stand

Filter/sump/protein skimmer

Lights

Powerheads

Rock

Sand/bare bottom