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My first build ... wish me luck


jcasisa

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So here is my plan, hopefully I am not biting off more than I can chew.

I will be using a 55g glass tank for my display tank and a 20g long for my sump.

1. I will be building the stand myself because my wife wants it to match other things in the room and some of the furniture has a 'reclaimed weathered look.'

2a. After the stand I will build my sump using 1/4" glass as the baffles. The exact placement will depend on the skimmer and return pump I get, but I will include a refugium. Just seems like a smart way to protect the tank.

2b. Still debating on whether to drill the display tank or not, most likely I will.

3. Then I will be building my own LEDs. I am totally comfortable with the building process but I will definitely need help with the light selection!!

During the process I will be looking for used and closeout items for pumps and skimmers and such. I will keep a running total of the costs and provide it a the end.

Based on budget and time available I think I should have something up and running by Christmas :)

-John

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I don't know what kind of budget you are setting for the LEDs but you might consider the rapid LED aurora pucks, they are a not cheap but they are a nice one piece four channel puck. If they are not your style I still suggest looking at rapid led as they are a good source of info and supplies.

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I have already looked at rapidLED and love their stuff. I have an uncle who is an electrical engineer and he was also impressed with their quality, selection, and instructions. I most definitely will be going with them, though I may have a source for free heat sinks.

As far as live stock, I will want to do corals and fish, leaning more towards the corals so I know light selection is going to be very important. I don't know specifically what I am looking for yet, but as I see something I like I will be adding it to my portfolio.

-John

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Actually there is a big difference in the needs of different corals so it's kind of important to decide what types of coral you like so you can equip the tank properly. Some corals are way more demanding than others ... My advice would be to learn about the various corals, get an idea what you like, and then select your equipment to support their needs :)

For example, if you like zoas and soft corals your system might be very different than if you like montiporas and acroporas.

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Jolt - thanks for the advice. I think the smart thing to do is maybe post pictures of what I am thinking about and see what equipment I would need and if they are even compatible.

Some good news ... I go the 20g long, the 55g display tank, and a stand that I probably wont even use for $70. How is that for bargain shopping :)

That means I can start on the tank stand build sooner than I thought, happy days indeed.

-John

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Are you sure you want baffles between the sock and the skimmer? If it were me I'd rather have a larger skimmer section so I could throw in other media reactors, for example GFO.

Also, some people prefer the return pump in the middle and the refugium on the outside. Requires a split drain line, but allows you to control the flow rate in the refugium.

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The reason I am adding baffles at the beginning is that I have read that skimmers work better at a constant water level and when the water is less turbulent. Those first 2 baffles help with that issue.

I am also thinking about adding an egg crate shelf on the first middle baffle for filtration bags, right after the protein skimmer.

I was wondering why some had the return pump in the middle. So you just add a 'T' into your input line and have 'display tank water go right into the refugium? That water by-passes the skimmer? Would you add a sock to that line as well?

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Most people control the height of the water in the skimmer section using the downstream baffle. I do think having a shelf for media bags is a good idea

Some people add a sock on the refugium, others do not. I've also seen rubble towers which seem pretty effective too at removing bubble. Check out the sumps on melev's reef. DanH has one and I think it is sock-less. If you go with return in the middle, you probably also want to put a gate valve or ball valve on the refugium side of the T to control the flow. Some overflows actually have two drain lines in which case no T is needed.

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So here is the livestock I am looking at:

1 clown fish

1 blue tang

1 royal gramma

1 melanurus wrasse

1 fire hawkfish

1 yellow foxface

And for corals I will be doing all zoas at first and then move up from there.

Thoughts?

-John

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Those fish would be fine but the blue tang and foxface will feel a little cramped by the 2nd year, if you get them small to start with.

My former foxface went from 2.5" to 5" in a year and the blue hippo I had went from 3"-6" in about 1.5 years. A 5" hippo tang and a 6" foxface will feel pretty cramped in a 55-gallon.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So an update on the build ...

I was just about to start working on the stand when I took the family to AquaTek and my wife saw the 75 gallon and realized that the foot print isn't much bigger than the 55 gallon I was going to use. So she says 'Why not go with a 75 instead of the 55 if we can have more stuff and it should be easier to maintain?'

Great question I said .... so now my display tank is gong to be a 75 gallon instead. Now to get rid of the 55 gallon I just cleaned and painted :) Anyone need a clean tank with no leaks?

So very glad I waited on building the stand.

-John

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