Kaplanm Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I've got a drilled DSA 60gal Bowfront. I've spent the past work getting my plumbing assembled and now that it's all together I finally go to test the seals on my bulkheads and all 3 fail, spectacularly. (Thank goodness for my empty sump!) It's not a leak, it's gush. Do I need to Teflon tape the threads that the bulkhead nut tightens over?I've got the bulkheads as tight as I can by hand, do I just need to try and get in there with a pair of channel locks and crank it down harder? I don't want to crack the glass on my tank. Big thanks in advance, I'm really excited to get water in my tank this weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madsalt Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Teflon tape is not a bad idea but not necessary. Do you have the rubber seals in place, those are very important. You should not have to crank down on the bulkheads. Using channel locks to go just past hand tight should be enough. Back to the Teflon tape, if you have a gush, I do not think it is something Teflon tape will fix. Is your tank new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I'd agree, no Teflon tape needed. A hand tightening with a small crank of the channel locks should be good. Too much tightening can cause the rubber gasket to warp and cause more leaks than desired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 And make sure the gasket is on the inside...not outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaplanm Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 I have all 3 gaskets on the inside, maybe it's just that last turn with channel locks that I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I've found the sweet spot to be when the gaskets are nicely pressed up against the glass but not so over tightened that they bulge out at the seams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 You'd crack the Bulkhead before you crack the glass. Hand Tighten, then only a little more tightening with the channel lock. If you feel like your over tightening, you are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaplanm Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 I think I've identified the issue, I'll have to break down some of the plumbing to fix it. It looks like my return pipes are just a hair too short and the black return box on the back is pressing them up just enough to prevent a clean seal.I'll break it down and take a Dremel to the black box to free up the 1/8" I need.We'll see how that works later this afternoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 you can always add a union somewhere in the plumbing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaplanm Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 That would prove problematic at this point. Both ends of the pipe are welded, and while the bottom is threaded in my infinite wisdom I've made it nightmarish to pull the bulkhead back out. At this point, simply grinding down the plastic plate for the overflow box would be easier. Unless someone has a really compelling reason why I shouldn't pull about an 1/8" off the overflow box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madsalt Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Shortening the overflow sounds like the option you should take especially if it is applying pressure. Even if you find a different solution over time the added pressure could be a point of failure that you do not want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 A Picture says a 1000 words? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaplanm Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 The one was really easy. I had to nip about a 1/2" from the top strainer bit. The other one I'm concerned about.What do people thing, can I cut this box down, or should I just pull the whole thing and start over? I really don't want to compromise the tank structurally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juiceman Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Ok, so it's the return that's off, I thought it was the overflow. Trim away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madsalt Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 To be honest I would just redo the pipes. PVC is cheap and I would rather have it in there correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaplanm Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 I think I'm going to wind up going halfway between the 2 options. I'm going to pull the existing return pipe out and tack on a small spacer on the bottom. Yeah I know it'll reduce flow some, but breaking this down is *seriously* a nightmare. (My fault. Next time I'm going all hard PVC, this flex tubing seems to be more of a pain wrangle than straight pipes) I'll post pictures later tonight of the train-wreck of a piping system I've got installed on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madsalt Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Sounds good. I have a slip in reducer at the bulkhead and it has not caused any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshdmartin Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Just cut the pipe and add a coupling to gain the lenght? simple .25$ piece fix!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Just cut the pipe and add a coupling to gain the lenght simple .25$ piece fix!!+1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reburn Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Just an observation and IMO. Instead of "fixing" it now I feel you are better off cutting it up scraping it and starting over. It seems like you are trying to make it work when you won't be happy with the results of it being pieced together. I understand it's a nightmare now think about how bad it will be when the tank has water in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckyuv Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Just cut the pipe and add a coupling to gain the lenght simple .25$ piece fix!! Was Gona say this as well. Cut the pipe and couple it back together. You might want to sell the tank one day. Plus it will give you time to get some krylon fusion and paint the pvc black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaplanm Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 Here's my hell-acious hack job of a plumbing setup. I've learned a lot from this excercise, but I've also hit the point where I'm exhausted with fabrication I'm only moderately comfortable in. As is for the moment I'm happy. Here's the front view, with a partial aquascape being done. I've got about 40lbs of base rock in there now, I plan on another 40lbs of live before next week is out. I'll move this to a separate WIP thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madsalt Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 why do you have that huge S curve in your pipe, is that your return? If so it might be better to run that as straight as possible so it doesn't impeded the return. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaplanm Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 That was the hose I was supplied with the plumbing kit I bought with the tank. Is it possible to cut it down and still mate it to the coupling at the other end, or do I need to go and buy a whole new hose and start from scratch.That is one of the few pieces that actually is easy to remove and replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madsalt Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 So after looking at it a little more, it looks like that is your return to the sump from the tank. With that kind of S curve in it, it will slow your return. the problem with those hoses is that they have the ends on them so if you cut them , you lose that. The S curve can be a good thing in slowing down the water if the overflow is too loud. I personally like to use PVC and add a ball valve or gate so I can control the flow back to the sump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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