joshhh Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 I currently have a current USA orbit marine led light I'm curious as to whether or not this is capable of growing sps and if not what should I switch to or supplement with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jestep Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Which size fixture and what are the dimensions of the tank? Speaking generally, it might have enough intensity to grow very undemanding sps like monti caps, seriatopora (birdsnest) and digis. You may need 2 of them to have any chance at more light demanding species. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshhh Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 It's the 18-24" and my tank is 24"x13"x18" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimReefer Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 I have same light on my seahorse tank. Does fine for softies and zoas but Sps will not survive with this light no matter what size tank or placement Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshhh Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Not even with a second one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timfish Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 What you'll need to do is get some PAR or lux readings and then find corals that will show decent color with your light field. In the case of your fixture you can assume that with two fixtures side by side the PAR or lux readings where the two overlap will be close to double of what the reading is with one fixture. This link here has some pdf files that might help you understand LEDs a little better: http://www.austinreefclub.com/topic/23988-my-led-pdfs/?hl=cannon%C2'> Depending on the species and/or variant some corals will do OK under lower light levels than others and as you get to know your corals species better there are some fluorescing proteins that will only be expressed under lower light levels while others will only be expressed under high light levels. This picture of a bicolor birdsnest colony kinda gives you the idea of what some corals may show under varing light fields but keep in mind others species may not show much variation in color at all like Green Slimer which only goes from brown to green: As an aside I also would point out that the terms "SPS", "LPS" and "softies" do not have any scientific basis, quoting Eric Borneman "Unfortunately there is no real correlation between polyp size, where corals are found on the reef, and how they should be maintained in captivity." Aquarium Corals, Selection, Husbandry and Natural History, pg 211 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MantaFan Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 This link here has some pdf files that might help you understand LEDs a little better: Tim, what's the link you mentioned above... trying to get my LEDucation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timfish Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Oooops! Here's the pdfs: This first pdf looks at the light fields of a single LED star and a 3 LED star. The charts give PAR readings directly under the LED at 1' of air then 1' of air and 1' depth then 1' air and 2' depth. The charts also give the light field laterally from the fixture 3" and 6". The last page gives a demonstration on figuring PAR levels with multiple LEDs. The technique can be used with BuildMyLED fixtures also as they provide PAR reading by depth directly under their fixtures and laterally.Cree XP-G light field.pdf These three are DIY projects with different driver setups including using a LM 317 regulator for a DIY driver. The first two projects are using two 3 LED stars in series and a 10 watt LED can easily be substituted. These basic designs can be adapted to alrger heatsinks like the "Makers" heat sink available on some websites. ARC 48 watt LED Cannon.pdf LED Cannon 48 watt LM 317 regulator.pdf ARC 34 Watt LED Cannon.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoneroller Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Where's the 60 watt design? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timfish Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Where's the 60 watt design? My math was bad. Take the 48 watt design and use a 1000 ma buckpuc on the blues instead of the 700 ma listed, THIS IS DRIVING THEM AT THEIR MAX RATING SO EXPECT A SHORTER LIFE EXPECTANCY, OR add a 2nd string of whites with a 1000 ma buckpuc or a third string of blues with another 700 ma buckpuc will will add 14 watts. The heat sink used on the 48 watt cannon will handle 90 watts. If attempting to build a fixture running at the max I would suggest getting a 1/4" thick aluminum disc and glueing and screwing the disc to the heat sink when mounting the LED stars. Additionally, since the blue/royal blue and the white cree LEDs are closely matched voltage wise a single regulated power supply with a voltage adjust can be used without the buckpucs but care must be taken when adjusting the voltage so the LEDs are not fried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 I use OceanRevive S-026 on my 150 tall. They have built in fans and don't get nearly as hot as other units. I've never had a problem with the quality or the craftsmanship and they have a good price point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Technical talk aside, you may be able to keep lower light stony corals alive, but that's about it. Once you put them under a nicer light you'll see what growth is. A happy montipora cap can easily put on an inch in diameter a month if not more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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