Bpb Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 I'm using a mixture of many salts currently. Which comes out at 420 ppm ca and 9.2 dkh. Previously I would notice big alk fluctuations as a response to a halt in growth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJohnson Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 I'm going to switch back to metal halide as soon as I get my canopy built. I really like my LEDs but I mess with them to much. I also don't like the disco ball effect it gave off. This is a little off topic but what are the benefits of duskdawn in a reef tank? Sent from my XT1045 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 Oh people like to claim it's good for corals and fish to ease them into the photoperiod. But...the best most amazing tanks over the past decade or so have just used MH or T5HO without any ramping. It's just hobbyist theory based on a logic set that can easily be proven otherwise. I honestly would rather view a perfect spectrum all day rather than a constantly changing one, anticipating some end point constantly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 After much much much inactivity of this thread, it's time to revive it. I had some good momentum built up but fell flat on my face. Short term plans: Pull down canopy, make some modifications. Remove most montipora colonies, as well as some Lps and larger rocks. Rescape. Do 2-30 gallon water changes in short succession in an attempt to "reset" trace element levels Replace lights Load up on acropora Long term goals: Replace BRS dosers with a Neptune DOS...I know some people will say why not go big and get a calcium reactor. My reasoning is, at this point I don't mind doing water changes, and I know I can keep up with even a large demand by using 2 part. The DOS is pretty much the best quality 2 part doser out there and a fairly safe product. I may get a calcium reactor one day, but the startup cost is prohibitive. I wouldn't do one without a nice co2 regulator, and a nice reactor. No cheap or entry level gear. So I'm going to stick with 2 part/kalkwasser, as my tank size wouldn't really give me much long term savings of a CARX vs 2 part. Second...replace my bubble magus skimmer with a Lifereef. And eventually I'm sure my apex will need replacing too. It's approaching 4-5 years old I think A pic teaser....can't start using it just yet, because I need to do some canopy mods. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo662 Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 ooooooh...pretty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 (edited) Had some more time to play with bulbs. While our Bryan/College-Station reefer crew is small, there are some very solid tanks in the area that can go toe to toe with some of the nicer tanks in some bigger cities. A few T5HO users in the area were kind enough to loan me some of their well used/past their prime/backup/just in case bulbs so I could play around with combos until I decide what I like. So far I'm starting off with 2 ATI True Actinic 3 ATI Blue+ 3 ATI Coral+ It's a really nice overall hue, very modern American reef looking if that makes sense. Strong blue undertones with just enough reds in there for some reflective color to show. It's a violet weighted 18000k-20000k look for sure. About as blue as Radiums but with more purple/violet to it. I would expect a ton of vibrant fluorescence with this look. Having said that, while it looks cool, it may not be the exact look I'm aiming for. My favorite look is the classic 10000k metal halide with blue/actinic supplements. Bright vibrant white with just a dash of blue to cool it off. Like 12000k. Something like this I know the only thing that looks like MH is MH but I want something closer to that hue. I have some other bulbs on hand that I will try and see how that goes. Other combos I will try are... 2 ATI True Actinic 2 ATI Blue+ 2 ATI Aquablue Special 2 ATI Purple+ 2 ATI True Actinic 3 ATI Blue+ 2 Giesemann Tropic 6500k 1 ATI Purple+ 2 ATI True Actinic 2 ATI Blue+ 1 ATI Coral+ 1 ATI Aquablue Special 1 Giesemann Tripix 6500k 1 ATI Purple+ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited April 16, 2016 by Bpb 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 I think adding some of the warmer tones definitely helps with color rendition. Those Giesemann 6500k might help out as well a just a standard GE bulb from home depot. I noticed when I swapped my cool white diodes (10k) to the warm white diodes (3.5k), my tank looked a lot more natural and much closer to my MH look. It even gave me a lot of purple back in my tank and helped reds/oranges/yellows a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 Man I wish my Home Depot carried GE 6500k t5ho bulbs. Sadly neither lowes nor Home Depot carries them in my area. Not even Bulbs & Batteries carries T5HO bulbs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Bummer, their shipping is usually pretty reasonable. Or you can have them ship to the store for free I believe and you can pick it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 Now there's a plan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 Odd. Neither lowes or Home Depot website is showing the GE bulbs. Aquarium specialty has them for $16 a pop. I seem to remember getting them for cheaper a while back Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Odd. Neither lowes or Home Depot website is showing the GE bulbs. Aquarium specialty has them for $16 a pop. I seem to remember getting them for cheaper a while back Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I guess they stopped carrying them. I bought my last one like 4 years ago so things might have changed a bit. Sorry to send you down that rabbithole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 It would be nice to have a realistic comparison between the $15 GE Starcoat 6500k bulbs and the $25 Giesemann Tropic 6500k. I wonder how the performance and look compares. Why the massive price difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 If it were me, I'd run with the GE one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 18, 2016 Author Share Posted April 18, 2016 Let there be light Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Let there be light Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Nice! What combo of bulbs are you running now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 18, 2016 Author Share Posted April 18, 2016 Started with the originally intended 2 True Actinic 3 Blue+ 3 Coral+ AND I have decided to continue running my buildmyled super actinic strip also. Mainly for increasing the photoperiod to the full 12 hours I'm used to so I can get some royal blue early dawn/late dusk action. My photoperiod right now is as follows 10:00-11:00 buildmyled begins ramping - will ramp from 10% to 40% over 3.5 hours 11:00 - 13:30: True Actinic and Blue+ on, buildmyled still ramping 13:30-18:30: all remaining bulbs on, buildmyled drops to 25% for mid day photoperiod 18:30-21:00: True Actinic and Blue+, Buildmyled begins ramping back down 40% to 10%/off 21:00-22:00 BML only until the ramp is done So it's basically 3 phases. I turn the LEDs down for the main photoperiod for two reasons. The canopy DOES warm up a touch and I am not using a fan in the canopy right now so I'm preserving their life by lower operating wattage. Also...I know those of you who use this fixture will say "duh", but man this thing puts out some light. I'm blown away. Even 12" off the water I could easily see myself cooking things on the sandbed. The LEDs quite frankly could even stand to be turned off entirely during the main photoperiod because they're basically not even noticeable unless they're at 100%. I had to take the canopy down and do some mods to it which took me a couple hours of working so the tank was dark during that time. When I put the fixture back up and turned it all on, it was a lot like walking outside mid day mid summer after sleeping in a dark room. All Zoas and Lps immediately closed as tight as they could, so I couldn't get a decent picture. I immediately commenced a blue/actinic only profile for the remainder of the day with only two bulbs plus LEDs. I didn't even keep the full light profile on long enough to get a look at the fully warmed up bulbs. I need to get a gel filter or something for my phone because pictures just get the blue wash despite the color being fairly white. Right now I am only doing 5 hours of main light intensity, which may get reduced further if I see stress when I get home from work. I'll eventually work my way up to a 8 hour main viewing period. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Nice! Where the heck did you hang the BML? It looks like the fixture covers your entire tank from the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 18, 2016 Author Share Posted April 18, 2016 Lol it absolutely does. Here's how it works. Tank: 48"X18" even rim to rim Canopy opening at the top 47"x17.25" Actual fixture dimension 46.5"x17.5" But...that's the fixture itself. The housing. There is 1.5" of metal housing on the outer edges (lengthwise so actually from reflector to reflector is 14.5" for all 8 bulbs. So I actually had to install some metal L brackets in each corner on the canopy to rest the fixture on, because it is beveled, so it kept wanting to tilt and fall in without the brackets, I also have the hanging wires on the hooks with the existing light rail I installed previously and wouldn't you know...they're JUST the perfect distance to where the wires can hang on the hooks and it lifts the fixture enough to keep pressure off the canopy rim but it still touches. It's truely flush. But...since the reflectors themselves aren't truely spanning the entire width of the fixture I have about 2" or so to play with, which is conveniently the size of a bml strip. I angle it back too so it takes up even less space. So it's not shading anything. I have it mounted inside the canopy right at the front on the tank rim. I was planning on selling it, and I still may eventually but for now...if it fits it sits. No reason to get rid of it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Oh nice. Perfect how that worked out for you. I'm getting rid of my LED supplement bar now that the T5 supplements are in there. No point for it in my application and it'll help recoup some money I spent so I figured why not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 18, 2016 Author Share Posted April 18, 2016 Oh nice I'll admit I've missed a couple pages of updates on your thread so I didn't know you were running t5 supplements. Did you do the DIY kit or one of the Giesemann/Hamilton retros? What bulbs are you running? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FarmerTy Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Wuh? I can't believe that! [emoji4] Added 3 60" T5s to my setup. Blue+ in the rear Coral+ and purple+ up front. My poorman's ATI Powermodule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 Man oh man I forgot how much I love the look of pure actinic bulbs. It's a look you just can't replicate. Dawn dusk looks just delightful now with a combination of blue+, true actinic, and the BML actinic strip. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 I'll add. I underestimated the heat that this would put out. I've been keeping my temps on the low end between 78.5-78.5 and today at the end of peak photoperiod the temps had climbed to 80.2. It'll only go higher as I approach the 8 hour intended photoperiod for daylights. I'll try out a fan on the sump to see if that helps a bit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted April 24, 2016 Author Share Posted April 24, 2016 Temperature issues easily handled by a fan over the sump. Staying between 78-79 now which is nice. Everything has reacted so well to the change in lighting. I'll reiterate that I do believe LEDs can work, it's just a level of patience and learning curve I'm not up for. I'll pay for my bulb changes and simplicity. I'm absolutely loving the color and cannot wait till I work my way up to the 8 hour photoperiod of bright white. Another positive side effect has been that my ph hangs out up around 8.3 now as opposed to 8.0 before. More light more photosynthesis. Big plans tomorrow for a major rescape and selling off some colonies to make room. I'll pair that with the first of a few 30 gallon water changes to try and reset my water parameters to low no3 low po4 and balanced trace elements. I'm considering buying a Hanna alk checker as my last alk batch from the Red Sea test kit was bad. The Hanna looks much faster and easier. Also looking into picking up an MTC minical reactor instead of a Neptune dos. The MTC looks like it doesn't require a feed pump based on their recommendation. It looks like the circulation pumps inlet is split to suck water into the reactor as well as seen here. Thoughts on that? And one last FTS before the big change up. Color is about as accurate as I could get it in Lightroom from a cell phone pic. I really need to break out the DSLR and macro lens when I start getting new livestock Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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