Bpb Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 So I came across lots and lots of free plumbing supplies today. several 1" gate valves, one 3/4" gate valve, several feet of 1" and 3/4" pvc, a dozen or more elbows and 45 degree fittings, several unions ect. even came with an already assembled manifold for reactors off a return, only problem is none of it fits in my sump, so I was gonna use the non-cemented pieces to build my own. Here's the issue. Most of it is 1" stuff. My return pump is a Sicce Syncra 3. Never been used. has a 3/4" female output. If I want to use alot of this stuff and save myself about a hundred bucks, is there any problem with me using a 3/4" to 1" connection right at the pump output and building the whole manifold and everything out of 1" pvc and what not? Will that cause a problem? I need 300 gph for my main display at 4 foot head, and i also need to power a tlf150 for biopellets, and a brs dual reactor for gfo and carbon. Will widening all the pipes cause too much of a pressure drop? Someone help. I get the main idea of how to make one and have most of the pieces, just curious if this bit of water physics will be problematic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esacjack Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 A widened pipe wont cause much of a pressure drop (there isnt much in the line of PSI in an aquarium pump). However, the amount of water friction increases with the larger diameters, which will cause flow to decrease. (GPH/Gallons Per Hour). If I recall, I believe this is called the nozzling effect. Bio3 is the resident expert on manifolds and flow. My manifold is based on his design, but I was forced to use several size adapters, right angles, and an insanely overpowered pump. So my design is a bit noisy when its dialed down. I believe this is likely due to cavitation from all the turns and size changes. So you may want to keep in mind that too much flow, with a lot of constriction will make it noisier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Won't hurt. You'll pressurize and be sound. If you post a pic before gluing I can give you more help, to avoid problem areas or secondary solutions. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 I'm calling it quits for tonight on tank stuff. Been at it all day traveling around to get the new apex, plumbing supplies, and what not. Tank is in bad need of a little tlc. Hasnt been touched in a couple weeks. Stuff needs moving and what not. I'll begin work on the manifold first thing tomorrow morning and will post pics as I go to this thread. Hopefully someone will see and check at some point before too late so I can get stuff glued and working by nightfall! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadodge Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 check my build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 Link? Not sure which one is yours from the phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sascha D. Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 I have a manifold in my build thread as well. Bio helped me build it and it works great. I'm seeing now that it is more than I will ever need, but it's nice to have options. If I had to do it all over again, then I think i would use a 3/4" pipe instead of 1". I wish I would have designed my sump a little better as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadodge Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Jeremy's 200G eurobrace build Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 Here's my first idea. Most of this is already assembled I'm just kind of reworking it. The manifold with the ball valves is too wide for my taste but already cemented so I'm just gonna mimic it, but have the T's close together instead of spaced out. My stand is a crummy pressed wood marineland stand, so I don't feel comfortable drilling into it to attach any pipe holders or straps, so the main line comes straight off the return pump and heads straight up to the display, with a union and gate valve before I have a threaded barb adaptor to use the final length of vinyl tubing to go to the display. before the gate valve I've got a T that will have the 3 outlets for the two reactors, and a spare with a cap. I'll just zip tie that to the main pipe (like a buddy tape), and that should help everything remain vertical. Vinyl tubing will connect to one barb on the manifold, and I'll have to find an adaptor for the BRS dual reactor that uses flexible pvc. What do yall think. This is as simple as I could make it, with as few turns as I could do given my limitations Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 Sorry...dang sideways iphone picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 If that gate valve is opened you won't pressurise the while manifold right. The 3 valves on the side are perfect if you leave that valve closed. Water takes the path of least resistance so when that gate opens the reactor will have more resistance and not work right. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 How do I pressurize the manifold then?? The gate valve won't ever be fully open. The pump is too powerful for my overflow so it'll be restricted. 500-600 or so flow at 4 ft head. Overflow is 300 gph. Will I still get no flow through the manifold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 How do I pressurize the manifold then?? The gate valve won't ever be fully open. The pump is too powerful for my overflow so it'll be restricted. 500-600 or so flow at 4 ft head. Overflow is 300 gph. Will I still get no flow through the manifold? As you open that gate valve more water will flow out and that will take pressure away from those three side ports. The side ports are good since they have that little bit of pipe at the end where the cap is. If you can leave that gate valve closed and run everything off the side ports you would be good. You will still get flow and you can end up using that setup but you might find some days that your reactor has minimal flow through it and the tank has more than wanted. I was taught to have all the supply ports come off one line with a cap at the end this allows the whole pipe to pressurize and then you can start taking flow out from each port, more open the port, more flow less pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 I'm missing a big picture item here I guess. The gate valve is for the display return. If I leave it shut...no water to the return. I'm trying to have my one pump function as both the return pump and the reactor pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 Like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 better close up pics. The reactor assembly DOES have a cap on the end. In this build (not yet cemented), I added a union at the elbow after the T, and I made the reactor feed lines closer together. There are no ball valves on the manifold because the reactors themselves have ball valves (brs dual reactor, and tlf 150). You'll see the reactor assembly part has a cap on the end, the third port also has a cap since it wont be in use, and the first one is bare...I was short one threaded barb adaptor. The other side of the "fork in the road" goes to the gate valve then to the display. Gate valve is so I can dial back display flow...which I thought would pressurize the pipes and force water through the reactor lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 The way I was taught, that "fork in the road" causes issues and its not going to pressurize properly. If your pump has enough force to do it then you can probably get away with doing that design as long as you don't bleed off to much pressure or end up with too much back pressure from the small valve I.D in those reactors. I always choose to put 1/2 inch ball valves on the manifold. If it was me I'd have a manifold identical to the one on the right of that "fork in the road" coming directly off the pump, with ball valves on it to control flow to the reactors and display tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Something more like this? I like this even more. With the reactor feed lines just coming straight off the main pipe? Gonna test my design in the tub or something first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Now it doesnt have a cap at all. Using that design can you add a T after the empty "T port" and face the gate valve the same direction as the other ports then put a cap on the top? Or just put the gate valve on that empty port and cap it on the top, leave enough space between the cap to add additional ports later if you need them just cut and add. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Ah I don't follow. I'm missing a threaded barb that is supposed to go on the empty T. Lol can you sketch it. I thought you suggested getting rid of the fork and having the manifold come straight off the pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Like this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Leave enough space between the valve and cap so you can cut and add more ports later if you need them. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Forgive me if I seem dense. The display line coming from the gate valve yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bpb Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 This is the only 3/4" gate valve I have and it's already cemented to the unions so the elbow can either go before or after lol. I just put before that way it's not torquing it to the side with no support Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Bio)³ Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Like this?This worksSent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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